Sammitch0
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Posts posted by Sammitch0
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Yeah probably not for $400 shipped lol or $450 shipped.
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First off let me say the service Dave from PSI offers is second to none GREAT he's a good guy and hes worked with me every inch of the way, but before I send it out to him I want to confirm. On one coil it reads about 2.2ohm (this is a Dual 2) and on the other coil it just says 1 or open you know like its not doing the loop. This has checked out fine from when I first ran it i checked it well I pulled it out today to put it in the new box I built and checked the coils one read 2ohm the other nothing, sO i took my dads SEARS $400 DMM that works great tried it SAME thing nothing on one good on the other. When I have the subwoofer hooked up through the box it tested around 3.8-4ohm (i was running parallel)
So i'm guessing what happened what the VC or tinsel went and caused the amp to drop into 4ohms which is only 600RMS and I had the amp tuned for 1500RMS (yikes) so my subwoofer was heating up like a bish. All this time it wAS my SUB can ANYONE confirm? The sub souns solid still POINTS and ZERO coil rub, just a little noise under the cone like a tapping maybe the tinsel broke in the cone?
Anyways before I ship it I just wanted to confirm. and on a side not what subwoofer or subwoofers would be best in my jeep cherokee on 1200-1600RMS I dont want another 18' it was much too big for my small jeep I was thinking 2 15" subwoofer or a single 15" that does work.
told u it was that sub bruh.. good luck,,, get u some sa-15s
Haha yeah man good call and uh what do those go for im looking $400 shipped max im unemployed :-/
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still open for suggestions really leaning towards the 2 15" LVL3's though.
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Two 15" Level 3's shipped to 04037 looking for price trying to say $400 or under.
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So I can get two LVL 3 15's shipped for $400? who do I contact.
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With clean power and the right install what should two 15" DC LVL3's take?
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Haha funny stuff but unfortunatly im one of the people that was careful and knew what they were doing but unfortunatly things dont always work out perfect its not biggie really mestakes happen im just hoping dave is able to get it back to me free or diagnose it. For now I just need BUMP and I have $400 to spend. I want something that can do atleast 1600RMS daily and will get louder than my 1 18 theoretically.
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Never blew my 2 15" Kickers never blew my 15" Fi SSD but I somehow manage to blow the 18" haha I don't think it was user error though Dave said coulda been bad solder joint with low excursion so hes gonna check it out, but for now I need to find a $400 replacement no more, no less I want it shipped and I'll do used if its a reliable seller. I was thinking 2 12" SKARs, 2 15" RE SE(the old version not the sEX's) , 2 15" Audioque HDC2.5 or 1 15" AudioQue HDC3 Aluminum. But I'm open for suggestions I want something that will be LOUDER than my 18" off the same power and maybe take more than 1600RMS daily.
Hell now im concidering the AQHDC3 Aluminum 18" haha me and my 18" fetish.
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First off let me say the service Dave from PSI offers is second to none GREAT he's a good guy and hes worked with me every inch of the way, but before I send it out to him I want to confirm. On one coil it reads about 2.2ohm (this is a Dual 2) and on the other coil it just says 1 or open you know like its not doing the loop. This has checked out fine from when I first ran it i checked it well I pulled it out today to put it in the new box I built and checked the coils one read 2ohm the other nothing, sO i took my dads SEARS $400 DMM that works great tried it SAME thing nothing on one good on the other. When I have the subwoofer hooked up through the box it tested around 3.8-4ohm (i was running parallel)
So i'm guessing what happened what the VC or tinsel went and caused the amp to drop into 4ohms which is only 600RMS and I had the amp tuned for 1500RMS (yikes) so my subwoofer was heating up like a bish. All this time it wAS my SUB can ANYONE confirm? The sub souns solid still POINTS and ZERO coil rub, just a little noise under the cone like a tapping maybe the tinsel broke in the cone?
Anyways before I ship it I just wanted to confirm. and on a side not what subwoofer or subwoofers would be best in my jeep cherokee on 1200-1600RMS I dont want another 18' it was much too big for my small jeep I was thinking 2 15" subwoofer or a single 15" that does work.
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Currently running an 18" PSI off 1500RMS. I want to sell this and buy two 15" AQ HDC2.5's and run them off an AQ1200 or SA-1200D. What should be louder? Eventually I'll run a 3rd one but for now just wondering if the change is worth it. Or if 3 of these would be louder than 2 18's.
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buy a dmm it will save so much time in a headache situation like this man and theyre cheap
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What I noticed are the subwoofers aren't doing a complete sine. They go up and thats it theres no downward excursion. It seems like a phase or adjustment problem. That doesn't look right. They should be wanging both ways off that rockford.
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hit me up for free box design
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Now you know why it pounds this damn song is clipped to shit and back. Most songs that are too good to be true usually are.
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EXACTLY if it's an LED setup or theres some point to the dark its good but when you're just bumping in the dark what the hell are we supposed to be looking at? might as well just send us a sound clip of your subs bumping lol.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3FvALzAE5OA
Prime example right there, not that the systems even loud enough to tell ANYTHING at night as it's. -
Seriously what the hell? I've seen videos of it 90% dark you cannot even see ANYTHING and tons of people even veterans make these and it's SO STUPID. Wait for the daytime or DONT video. I cant see excursion, flex, settings I cant even see the damn car or surroundings. It's just stupid and pointless and my biggest audio peeve, thanks.
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Any reason for not going with an 18"? 2400RMS won't even touch to 4 XL's they require about 2k each. I'd say a single 18" Level 5 or the two 15" level 4's. Unless you plan on getting another amplifier in that case the Level 5 and two Level 4 XL's.
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They're comparison threads as far as I can see too bad you cant have them I understand the trolls and flame wars it brings but its a good thing to bea ble to to compare two things.
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So I realized it gets a lot hotter in the day at night it takes awhile to heat up. I hope this new box fixes this or im gonna give up ugh.,
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I wouldnt do it but thats just me dont think itll sound that great,
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Yeah this was a little test and I think it failed haha I agree my first step is a new box then I'll go from there I just got onto some money and I want to upgrade my main equipment and wanted to know if the cadence was a good choice for my subwoofer and im getting batteries anyways because I plan to unr a 2nd one.
So does my box design seem like a go?
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I matched the gain I set it perfectly. It still gets hot and off the SAME power the SSD was getting its only like half as loud... and from what I hear the AP's put out dirty clipped signal to get 1500rms and thats at 14.4v rating id think a more efficient high power amplifier that does rated at 13.5v would help a lot. I don't know ELSE it could be other than the AP Ive talked to dave hes confirmed my subwoofer can handle 1500rms daily it CANT be the subwoofer ive checked that theory over for hours and it ALL leads back to clipping/voltage drop and box.
Its a jeep grand cherokee so far sub up port back has been the loudest my current setup is sub back port back and ive also tried both up.
and im running a stock 90a, walmart battery and big III with 0 gauge. I'm running TWO amps totally about 2000rms.
Blew my first subwoofer :-/
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No offense I'm looking for something bigger than a BL I had a chance to buy one when I was getting my current 18" and I didn't like the price/performance no offense the fact that it does stock 1000RMS and not much more is a total turn off at the price they charge. And I'm trying to lean away from used unless I get a killer deal.