Sammitch0
-
Posts
725 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Sammitch0
-
-
look into Crescendo audio. I know a lot of their amps will do rated at 13.5-13.8 volts instead of 14.4 like a lot of other amps.
That's the type of responses im looking for can anyone give models/prices or links and inforamtion? I'm not trying to spend over $300 so that might be a big problem then again its only 1500RMS.
-
You guys dont seem to get what im asking... My AP is not even close to a high end amplifier it does rated but at 14.4v ONLY. My subwoofer warms up due to voltage drop to 13.5/12.5 right? cause of clipping. I have my AMP SET to 1500RMS on DMM i even set it a little under and it still heats up. I have everything set fine im not a noobie im just wondering WHAT amps will DO 1500RMS @ 13.5v or lower. so I can give my subwoofer 1500RMS without it clipping at lower voltage. I cannot afford an alternator right now so thats out of the question.
Could I just get a Hifonics BRZ2400 and set it to 1500RMS and call it a day? will that work?
-
-
I have a 90A alternator and a big brand new regular stock battery. I hold 14.4v when I first start it I can full tilt for most of the day and then it drops down to 13.5v then even longer it drops to about 12-12.5v. I run about 2000RMS with 4 channel and mono block. Would an XS 1200 in the rear clear this problem up a little? I do have big III 0 gauge knu conceptz all around.
Also if I get a new amplifier say for example an m2a that does rated @ 12.5v would I get clipping if my system dropped to 12.5v? or does that not matter... Problem is my subwoofer heats up at 1500RMS I clamped my AP and it does 1456 @ 1 ohm clamped power at 14.4v (hooked it to my box DC 270xp and 2 bats) but Im guessing when I hit 13.5 or 12.5 Im losing alot of power and doing a lot of clipping. My subwoofer can handle 1600DAILY but its lucky o handle 1600 for minutes without getting to hot so I have to turn it back to like 1000rms to stay cool.
What amplifiers can I run that'll do 1500RMS with my voltage drop and will the XS batteries help keep it up and be enough for 2kw I have a BRAND NEW 90A alternator and I have NO light dimming.
-
nobody? lol that bad? :-0p
-
Theyre nothing special thats why I want to paint them to match my red and black color scheme can you guys paint these black and maybe throw in your own lil flare? thanks
-
Would be cool if maybe he could answer a few questions so we can all make our own boxes... I can do everything BUT make the wood thick and get that wood color
-
Where do you get that wood color and how do you make wood thickness?
-
Hmm im running an 18" @ 1500RMS with 27hz 6.7cft why the hell am I nowhere near doing tricks like that?
-
Could be tinsel lead slap?
-
You trying to run 14.4v full tilt while sitting? haha you only need 1 good run of 0/1 and a big III man that alternator/battery combo will power those amplifiers just fine with ease. The kit will be fine. Oh didnt see the 4 ga distro DO NOT run 4 ga to that 2500 it will NOT like it 0ga all the way... You're going to have to figure something out. Buy a 0/4ga stinger for $20 on amazon run 0ga to your 2500 and 4 ga to your 100.4 then big III with the rest of the wire (since its a truck you should have plenty out of 17ft.)
-
you will be fine facing them back at the trunk just will have lots of trunk rattle
It's still gonna be way louder forward thats the point... Why dont you do what I said and just install ports in your rear deck? or just one big fiberglassed one? I did this in my grand prix and gained like 3 db's.
-
What amplifiers are they? what size alternator and what XS battery? Also what subwoofers you going to be running?
-
Than you answered your questions aim them back /end topic.
-
Nope its not bad but its gonna sound like shit compared to aimed forward... If you're seats are going to be up cutout your rear deck and put aero ports in it and aim the subs up/port back. Other than that both forward... way better and stop being a dick weve helped you you're just thick headed.
-
You cant just throw a picture like that up and not have videos or information, thats banhammer material
-
I was at a competition the other day a guy was running TWO JL13" W7's off a MMATS 1500.1 with proper electrical and all had a box custom built by the box guy at 32hz with an octo port this was all in a Explorer. He only got about a 146 on full tilt so I doubt you'll get anywhere near that off 1000rms.
-
They dont vary much man its not worth it to built your own when Dave at PSI will do it for practically free. Curtain baskets have to be used to keep structural integrity its pretty basic and universal sorry to dissapoint you.
-
That box looks perfect go off that. As far as clipping it's when the voltage produced by the electrical is too low for the voltage produced by the amplifier and causes the amplifier to clip sine waves to compensate, which will cause kick offs, bottom outs and worst of all a blown coil. The BRZ does rated but ONLY at 14.4v so if you're only getting 12.7v thats FAR from enough you're probably getting more like 1500RMS. Also it doesnt matter how high your volume is or how high it goes some headunits go up to 63 like mine but you want to play around 3/4 volume.
It also helps to know what headunit you have to figure out the preouts, if you have 4v that amplifier is turned way too high if you have 2v then it could be something else. I think it's a lot of LITTLE things causing your problem. Your electrical isn't too bad but from the drop youve described thats really low.
Start off with a new box, turn your gains down and learn how to setup gains with a multimeter.
-
How did you tune the amplifier? is it clipping? Are you getting the full 2000RMS ot just cranking your gain up? 3.5cft sounds like its too small to me. Hes running 2000RMS its the BRz2000.1 but his electrical looks on the small side. Stock alternators DONT like over 2000RMS and could be casuign massive clipping.
What headunit? whats max volume? what preout voltage is it?
-
I'm not being a dick people do it to my topics and I dont mind I just lower the price its common sense that if a retail store thats popularly known sells a produce brand new for a few bucks more with the same stuff its nice to inform the person so he doesnt look like a jackass...
It's whatever though I really don't care I have a 360 i was just interested in the wireless adapter :-p
-
Not to be a turd but you can get a brand new elite at gamestop right now for $300 with kinect a $50 gift card and 120GB HDD... So I'd probably put that to mind.
-
Grab yourself a decent multimeter and then go to Realm of Excursion download the 50hz 0db since wave tone and put it on CD/ipod whatever you use mostly. Run this on repeat on your headunit, unplug your subwoofer from the amplifier and stick the positive prong in the positive visa versa for the negative (speaker terminals) Set your DMM to AC voltage. 2000RMS @ 4ohm is 89.44v (so 89v) turn your settings on your HU to flat or 0 turn off your SSF and HPF/LPF all of that. Turn your headunit up to 3/4 volume and then slow turn your gain up until you see that voltage. Once there puta ll your EQ's etc. back to normal (lpf: 70-80, hpf 60-80, ssf 30hz and NO BASS BOOST) I'd ONLY put 2-3k on that subwoofer and with your electrical you can only handle about 2kw without causing clipping. I suggest atleast 220a alternator for your application and atleast 1 high output XS 3300.
.2 cents.
-
No I got it but I'd just prefer my old knob cause I dont have short RCA's or an extra pair and if I did it I'd want the same knuconceptz im running so does ANYONE have a NORMAL AP1500 or similar model bass knob for sale?
WTB A Single 15"
in Want To Buy
Posted · Edited by Sammitch0
300 + shipping for my 18" PSI JB1 does 1600RMS daily. its Dual 2. 3 8" Progressive Soft Spiders, 4 Layer 4" coil double stacked magnets high roll surround, black and red. only 6 months old with warranty still on it not a single problem