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scooter99

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Posts posted by scooter99

  1. Nice trailer Steve. I just got a 32' travel trailer last month. There are two things I'd advise, as a new trailer owner:

    1 - Go to Camping World/Village RV, and get yourself an automatic tongue jack. WORTH IT'S WEIGHT IN GOLD!!!! I didn't think I needed one, need is subjective I guess, but after using it a few times, it makes things so much easier. Rather than to stand there and crank and crank and crank.

    2 - Don't be a jackass like me and miss-judge the ass end length. That was a $500 oops the second day I had it. But really more than that, if you don't have a sway hitch, really good Idea to get one.

    That's all. Dig the leather. Wish we'd have gotten leather, but this one we couldn't pass up for the price and that was one of the things we compromised on.

    Anyway, that's all. Enjoy it! Congrats!

  2. I think for me the part that makes me nervous is the unknown. The fact that I don't completely understand them. How do you know how many you need, etc? Do you replace batteries with them, or if you had batteries would you run them along with those batteries? Stuff like that. If you're replacing a battery with these, say you had a D7500, how many would you need to equal that?

    I won't like, I saw this on facebook yesterday too, and I thought "hm xs power came out with an energy drink". You know like NOS did. LOL

    OH RIGHT, Like none of you thought the same thing!!! :peepwall:

    The usual supercap used is the Maxwell 3000F 2.7V.

    6 are required in series to be able to function in a 14V vehicle environment.

    The 3000F Maxwells are rated each at about 200A of max continuous current draw.

    Current in series is the same so a bank of 6 are still restricted to that ~200A (max continuous). 1900A peak.

    So to be safe, you'd want at least one bank for every 200A of current your system consumes.

    If you have an amp which draws 1000A, then 1000/200=5 banks would give you a very safe buffer.

    More banks will naturally give you more energy capacity.

    It's difficult to do an apples-apples comparison of batteries to caps as they are very different creatures.

    Batteries store TONS of energy while caps can store and release current very quickly.

    It also depends on what you use them for....burping or demoing.

    If in doubt..........just get 32 banks (192 caps) like AMI has.... :shok:

    ;)

    Yes, that's the ticket. Here let me just get out my check book and pay for that with my State Office Tech Salary! SHIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I'm sure we'll be talking more about this at some point.

  3. I think for me the part that makes me nervous is the unknown. The fact that I don't completely understand them. How do you know how many you need, etc? Do you replace batteries with them, or if you had batteries would you run them along with those batteries? Stuff like that. If you're replacing a battery with these, say you had a D7500, how many would you need to equal that?

    I won't like, I saw this on facebook yesterday too, and I thought "hm xs power came out with an energy drink". You know like NOS did. LOL

    OH RIGHT, Like none of you thought the same thing!!! :peepwall:

    • Like (+1 Rep) 6
  4. Hey guys. Glad to be back around Kyle.

    Will, thanks for the response, that was what I was hoping for. Ok I'll do that. Going to order them now.

    Hey Will, since you responded, I know you've done a bunch of custom stuff, how hard is it to put an amp rack in the seats? The last time I was going to try it I failed epically! I have the 06 F250 now, and I'd like to put the amps in the seat bottom so when you fold it up, bam there she is, but still hidden otherwise. I'm guessing it's just a matter of hollowing it out and then building the rack, probably out of glass right? Then making sure the fabric that's remaining fromt the seat stays tight?

    Have you done that before?

  5. Ok guys I need some help. I was trying to do 4 M38's in the back of my F250 behind the seat. If I move the seat up, and use fiberglass instead of wood to cut down the displacement, I can squeeze 3.03 cubes out of the enclosure after sub displacement. Now after that I have to add a port. To do a 6" Aero Port at 35 hz I'm looking at a 17.138" long port. That brings me down to about 2.75cu ft left. Is that enough on a Crescendo 3500? Or do I need the final net to be 3 cu ft.

    Second option is to go all sealed which I'm not sure I want to do. But I have the space for that.

    Last option is to just do 3 and run them at a 1.34 ohm load and I would have enough space for those as well.

    I guess I could run a pair of XL10's too.

    I need some options folks.

    Thanks!

  6. So, I have been running 2 m1 Lv3 12s under the rear seat of my Silverado for a while now, Friday last week we threw a pair of 8s in the back of travis truck,

    20130627_175337_zps9fea4c9e.jpg

    Its a Ford 4 door 350 with a 1000 watt hifonics amp on it, It sounded great.

    Hey Rusty, I know this thread is damn near a year old, but I have a question. First you said "It's a Ford 4 door 350.........". Is that in reference to the picture above? If so do you know how much air space it was, etc? I just picked up an F250 CC and I would love to do 4 behind there if I could figure out how to squeeze them in there. Maybe I can cruise on up with it and we can pull Jon's ass out from under the dually for 5 minutes and figure something out! I'm due for a trip up to hang out anyway.

    Also, was your enclosure ported, or sealed. I'm at work and can't see the video to find out.

    Thanks, sorry for the bump on the old thread. Beautiful work!

  7. Well I don't "have to ask" but why not ask the man who makes them if they can do it? If you never asked in the beginning you wouldn't know to do it now right?

    basic math would tell you that if you're getting 5k out of that amp, which you won't due to box rise and a list of other issues I won't get into here because I barely understand them myself, then you're only 200 watts above peak recommended power on those subs. 1200 x 4 = 4800 I know I can put a 3500 watt amp on an XL 12. I know I've seen guys put bigger on them. So if you don't ask the question, especially to the man himself, and you just go throwing big power on subs that may or may not take it and you blow them, then your gamble didn't pay off and you're up shit creek. Then at that point, you have no business doing those things.

    However, if you ask the question, you run proper power (High Output Alt, battery bank, big gauge wire, clean signal, etc) then you can do lots of things past "manufacturer's power rating".

    That's why I asked the questions. Lots of variables.

  8. I'm just wondering if it's possible to do 4 ported M38's on a single 5.0K at 1 ohm.

    I seem to remember Rob (Thorshammer) having a pair of M38's, although I'm sure they weren't just M38's if you know what I mean, but on a 5.0k or maybe it was a 3.5k.

    I know at 2 ohms I'd be looking at around 2300 watts, but I doubt I'll get that with box rise etc, and that's just short at RMS with 575 Watts provided I got all 2300 watts out of it. At 1 ohm is just at above recommended max per sub at 1250. I could gain it down obviously.

    Just curious if anyone has done this or what you guys think on that?

  9. What power and what is your enclosure like?

    Mine never got stinky. Level 3's on a DC 2k.

    dual 2's with strapped 3.5k's in a box that Rusty gave me specs for, it is tuned to 36hz

    So, you're wired to 1 per amp? If so, that would be why they're stinky lol.

    Why is that? Mine are on a single bc3500.1 each at 1 ohm. Tuned with a dd1 and matched with the cc1 on a 7.5k track.

    Question, if you had your stuff set and an om1 or vu din, and your song is clipped out of the gate, would the meter's pick that up or would it only pick up when you go past the tuning point on your amps? Did that make sense?

  10. Thanks for the description.

    I've actually been sitting here thinking about just using techflex and heat shrink. If I make the joint up close to the terminal platform, then it would have about 3 layers of shrink on it. Probably not visible. Then I don't even touch the tinsel lead. I guess that's probably the best way to go huh.

    Thanks guys for your help.

    Now I just need to find a crimp tool.

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