Jump to content

AMI CUSTOMS

Members
  • Posts

    4674
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS

  1. Now you will get a different response from others, but this is what I would do.

    Unhook the small alt wire that goes to the junction box and put the nut back on and close the box. Then run a 1/0 wire from alt to battery positive. Fuse if you like, but not necessary, I fused mine cuz I had a few extras with holders laying around, I used a 300 amp ANL. Then remove the negative lead completely from the vehicle, the small gauge wire coming from it, cut at the battery and put a terminal on the end and reinstall on the negative post. The other end of the heavy gauge negative that goes to the block, remove that bolt and install a piece of 1/0 wire from that spot on the block to the negative on the battery. Then run another 1/0 from the negative post to a spot on the frame. You can actually go to the mount that holds the brake like on the driver side, remove that bolt and install there.

    I did this exactly on my 01 gmc, and went from charging 14.2 hot to 14.7 and all I changed was the wire. Enjoy!!! :drinks:

  2. Question for you guys... see how the amp is sticking up above the box. I have a feeling it mite be restricting airflow over the box what do you think

    The bigger issue is that they are on the box period. Just inches away from the edge of the baffle with two subs right there. Good way to damage the boards of the amps.

  3. I wish there was a device that can tell you what kind of power each channel puts out. Not AD-1, but something like if you have 4 channel amp and each channel does 100wrms @ 4ohm, but speakers can only take 80wrms @4 ohms, you would just plug in the device and turn the gain up until it's gonna show that it's 80wrms :)

    There is, its called a clamp meter and digital multimeter.

    Once you clamp the amp you will know the power the amp is making.

    There is now way to really tell other then that due to a speaker being a variable impedance, and with every frequency the speaker plays will result in a different amount of power being giving to the speaker. A

    Another words if you are 100% sure the amp is making 80watts rms at 60hz, it does not mean it is making 80wrms at 100hz, or 50hz.

    true, just like there is an oscope

    What I mean is a device with lcd display that does all of the calculations for you. So all you need to do is plug in and play.

    calculations? Its AC Amperage X AC Voltage = POWER. :trippy:

    This thread makes baby Jesus cry! lol Merry Christmas SMD peeps!

    You too bro!

    That is actually wrong, I used to think the same until someone(Tony) shed a lil light on it. I felt like an idiot after he explained cuz I knew that, just ignored it lol. Anyway

    AAC X VAC = VA(volt-ampes) or apparent power

    AAC X VAC X pf = real power(Watts)

    pf is always less then 1, that is the cosine of the phase angle of the voltage to current sine wave. You take the cos of that phase angle and you have pf(power factor). Clear as mud? LOL

×
×
  • Create New...