AMI CUSTOMS
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Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS
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We didn't see the air twirl around the port, we saw turbulence on the edge of the port wall to the side of the enclosure, there is about a 1 inch gab on the far right side of the enclosure between the port wall and side of the enclosure and the air was pocketing forward and coming back against itself, creating turbulence. If that makes sense.
We did not just test the air/smoke in one direction, but the direction that the air would pressure from the woofers loading.
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I use imp rise to my advantage.....
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Yes they can handle that, but you won't see that kind of power on them after IMP rise.
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wht ohm would they be wired to tho if Im running 4 of em of one amp?
1 ohm for dual 2's
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Yes I would replace it that way you don't have to run an isolator you will have a voltage drop across the isolator they have there purposes but car audio isn't one of them. JMO....
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dual 2's and aq2200 done!!!!
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which dc 8's?
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Depends on the amp and how you want to run them, daily or burp and we talking two sub amps or a sub amp and mid/highs amp or two mids/highs amps?
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Yup you can do that, they have to be ideally the same type, like AGM style for example is the most common in car audio. Same brand and very close in age of battery. Just parallel it up to the front batt and that will work, put a fuse at each end of power between the two batteries and depending on your vehicle it may be best to run a full length of neg as well between the two.
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"turbulence test"?
The only "test" i can imagine is to see if your port flare is big enough.
Do you also have some footage from the test aswell?
I noticed you missed one (or more) subs in yor wall during this test?
Or is that an optical illusion?
There is NO port flare, so that is the purpose of the test to see where the air was pocketing and see where if any turbulence was in the enclosure. I popped one of the 15's earlier that day so it was out of the wall that is what prompted the test, we were able to put an air gun thru that sub hole opening to generate pressure in the box and we could control it. No footage of test. It did however confirm our thoughts of what was going on.
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Thank you. Means alot. I will go ahead and go straight to the battery and fuse it according to wire size. I think I will place the fuse close to the battery.
Fuse always min distance from battery 18 inches.
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I have a stock 115 amp alt and after I did the big 3 I went from 13.7volts at idle to 14.3 volts....
Your upgraded grounds did that, not the alt wire.
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If you are gonna use 1/0 with a high strand count use a 300 amp anl type fuse.
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What is the max you would push through these?
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R152-S-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B002X786XQ
I was thinking that a 50 rms amp should do well with these, so that I can avoid asking these "what is the max this takes" questions in the future, how do you determine what a safe to push through a speaker?
Thanks,
Nate
One word.....
......Experience!!!
That is what tells how much you can run, trying it out and seeing if it will handle it or not.
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Running that many amps on one remote off the HU is at the limit, you need to wire in a relay or you will eventually burn up that hu remote turn on inside the hu and it won't function. Wire a relay in.
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On your setup since you are on a stock what was it like 70 amp alt, it doesn't even matter if you upgraded that wire or not.
But normally you would want to run direct to the battery and make sure the vehicle stuff is still all powered off the battery which just about every car manufacturer under the sun does it that way so you could have just went straight to the battery and I agree put an inline fuse on it, IF the battery crapped out bad enough to create a short, if you weren't fused then the battery would take the alt out with it, but fused, it would just pop the fuse and open the circuit protecting the alt, this matters ALOT when you have HO alts.
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A nap....LOL, check all grounds, check alt power wire, check to make sure you didn't pop a fuse somewhere and it is limiting your transfer and if that all pans out, get alt tested, then if that is good, test with vehicle off and radio on and see what your drop looks like, if it nasty bad you got a battery issue. Hope it helps!!!!
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The max amps on the d3100 is 5000 and you have to look at reserve capacity of each battery, ah don't mean shit in car audio!!!!
D3100 are gonna come out on top, it takes weight in lead to make power!!!!
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I don't like drop either!!!! It is pretty bad ass when the longer you play it watch the voltage go up instead of down. I would say for above 10k watts daily, you need the dual alt setup at a min and around 3-4 d3100s per amp. This is what I am about to do with my current setup, just add 4 more d3100s and I am golden, I run two 3500d.1 aq amps and currently only have voltage drop on music, but I am only running two d3100 batts too plus the 3400 underhood, BUT i have a quad alt setup so my voltage only drops for a sec or two and then climbs and stays above 14 all day.
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And if you have voltage drop problems, as the voltage drops, the current goes up, if you are fused you cant burn the wire up, and this is if you are running like 4k size amps, if it is a daily vehicle it is a really good idea to be fused at both ends between the batteries.
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A pot full of smoke water blowing thru a machine for a turbulence test, YES it was....LOL
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I have same issue, when I hook up my VCM to my quad setup I can't lower the voltage below like 15.9 volts if I have all four alts hooked up, If I hook up three I can't drop it below 15.0, but if I just hook up two or one alt to the vcm and other just connected to the stock harness, I have all the control in the world.
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LOL Gotcha!!!! LOL
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Question about The big 3
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by AMI CUSTOMS
Yes you will be all good, that is how I have my 01 Sierra done. I removed that little 10 gauge alt wire out of the red box, put the nut back on to hold the starter wire in place and just ran 1/0 from the alt to a 300 amp anl fuse and then to the battery. Then upgrade your block to neg ground and your neg to frame ground. Done.
And If I am upgrading to 1/0 cable, I NEVER leave the existing cable, there is NO point in doing so, electricity will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance the bigger the cable the less resistive it is, so current won't even travel on that smaller factory wire if you have 1/0 in place of it.