AMI CUSTOMS
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Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS
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Alum corrodes Oxides and you will lose some of that conductivity so oversize it from the beginning.
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They don't send order confirmations thru email you get that with the alternator.
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Showed up kinda late to the party, but first off, I would have used copper or at least twice the thickness in alum. Just think is your 1/0 wire copper or alum? Anyway, the finished product looks great, I also recommend using brass bolts and nuts/washers, corrosion resistance and less resistance then steel by ALOT. Can get everything you need from Mcmaster Carr.com awesome place to buy stuff like this and cheap prices.
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Im competing in MECA,and them are the rule's.
Looks like you need to read the rules, lines 6 and 7 in section A on the page I linked says you can have vehicle on an go as high as 2000 rpm. Link here http://www.mecacaraudio.com/2011rulebook/2011%20SPL%20General%20Rules%20p7.pdf
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Good looking pillars..
Thanks, I have built literally hundreds of fiberglass gauge pods for cars/trucks.
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You have any pics of the D3400 under the hood? I want to know how you were able to jam it in the stock battery area haha.
I can get a pic of it later on, this is a build for my brother in law, it is his truck, but I just removed all that plastic shit and it sits perfectly, wasn't that big of deal really.
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Here what you can do instead of listening to people who are just guessing at what to do, actually test for the problem....
Follow these steps
1. Get a DMM
2. disconnect your rear batteries, just have the one batt underhood
3. Put DMM to DC voltage
4. Read voltage at front battery- write down number or remember it(TRUCK OFF)
5. Keep POS probe from DMM on the battery
6. Put Neg probe from DMM to the alt case
7. Is voltage is different then reading direct at battery - Yes or NO
8. If step 7 is Yes - you have a ground problem add more grounds
9. If step 7 is No - you have a possible weak alt regulator or very bad connections
10. You are done report back here
This best I can give without actually being there and seeing what is going on, could be something simple you are overlooking.
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Take your own advice noob!!!! There I said what everyone was thinking and I liked it!!!!
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1360a of POWER!
I just realized that you guys forgot to send me some decals?
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I wonder if you used a USB based charger and the AUX plug if it would still do it???
What do you mean?
It makes the noise when plugged into my charger, but the stock deck has a USB charger too. It charges at a much slower rate, but doesn't make the static noise that my fast charger does.
Get a charger that plugs in and has a USB port in the back, use that since that doesn't make noise and use the AUX cable for the music, just a theory.
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Yeah uh no sticky
And there ya have it, the likes have it!!!!
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I am liking the fact that you liked your own post and I will like my own post as well, and like this whole thread before it just falls apart from all these likes, holy crap too many likes!!!!
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For all gm trucks from 88 up to 2012, the roof is the first place I would do, put all of it up there. Biggest increase in db has always came from doing the roof on gm based trucks.
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Its electronic noise. You hear the charging "flow" of energy from the vehicle to phone. I can't escape it. Yet.
LOLZ, do what?
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I wonder if you used a USB based charger and the AUX plug if it would still do it???
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That is not a ground loop, just interference that FCC says you have to comply with lol.
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Thanksthats a dam nice box man
damn dude, looks awesome! i like the box covering
Thanks, it was one of those experiment type deals.
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what freq? look like it was getting pretty high there
It does same number from 50 - 55 hz on burp, 55 hz is easier on the subs with that much power, wired at .25 ohm on that D9 for burp.
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Vids of one of the tests Enjoy!!!
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I hope you are in a low theft area because that is a lot of openly visible fancy electronics you got there.
-Drew
Boy we country out here in the sticks lol, at least that is what he says, not my truck so his deal. He is wanting to black out the back three windows and batt and amp will be in the bed in the near future.
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Okay, this is a straight up SPL/daily build I did for my brother in law. He has an 06 Colorado Extended cab and after sitting in my truck he told me, "Make my truck hurt your head!!!!" I said, "No problem!!!"
On to the build
This is a no wall build or will be you will see lol.
(2) AQ HDC3-v3 alum 15s
Ported box coated in Spectrum, 1.5 inch mdf all the way around tuned to 40 hz with LOTS OF PORT!!!!
Amp RD D9
D3400 underhood, HC2000 next to amp, stock alt, one run of 1/0 wire thru truck.
ZERO Deadener
Kenwood DNX812
That about covers it, on with the pics.
AMI CUSTOMS A-Pillar Gauge Pod for volt gauges
Trying to make it to a show so put amp and extra battery on top of box for now, last minute decision, they will be moved into bed. AQ3500d.1 in this picture.
Things you do to get stuff done, gaskets are installed now lol.
First Show, showed up burped it with the TL to find freq, pulled up to lane having no idea what to expect and did a 152.7 on dash driver door open. Got some trophies.
USACI style in kick in globe w/AQ3500D.1
Then with D9, meter on dash driver door open
And with D9, USACI style in kick in globe
More to come!!!!
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Oh and just as a reference, one of the guys on my team runs an RD D9 amp, 5k rms amp all day, off just stock 145 amp alt D3400 underhood and HC2000 next to the amp, stay above 12 volts even when clipping
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So I should be looking at my Amps RMS or Peak Watts when trying to dice an Alt.?
4100w RMS / 14.2v = 288.7A
288.7A + 60A (for the electrical systems) = 348.7A
8200w Peak / 14.2v= 577.5A
577.5A + 60A (for the electrical systems) = 637.5A
So should I look for a 350A Alt. or like two 325A Alt's?
And what size batteries should I get for the back?
be worried. the info in this thread sucks so far.
your math is off because you didnt factor efficiency. you need more like 470amps. dont ever ever ever ever ever ever ever, ever look at peak or max power ratings. they are useless. rms only!!! so a 250amp alt with a higher idle output than a 300amper, with two xs power 2400s plus a starting battery and you will be covered.
I was thinking the same thing then scrolled down and was relieved to see at least one good response.
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well,i do compete ,and the car has to be off on music,.
Where are you competing that the car has to be off? That is fucked man, anyway, depends on length of cable, and do equal positive and neg runs, for AQ2200, unless you are running it at .25 ohm one run of positive and negative is good in just about any vehicle application.
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Saturday Afternoon Project, $20 Lowes buss bar/distro bar
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
You WILL have more voltage drop across aluminum vs copper, called physics lol