AMI CUSTOMS
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On my level - Decaf version
Hood Stomped out (slowed version)
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Upgrade alt and add another 2400, that will be fine even at .5 ohm each, just run them strapped at 1 ohm. People saying don't run .5 ohm haven't done it or just thinking you need your hand holded. Make a decision if you are going to run below nominal, make sure you understand what you are getting into.
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It is basically a giant relay, so make sure the ground is solid, I would go to the battery neg. You could check it with a DMM to make sure the coil of the relay is still functioning properly. Make sure ground and ign are connected, hook power to one side of the relay, check voltage at battery with car on (running), then check voltage at the battery neg and the open post on the other side of the relay, if it isn't the same at the battery then relay coil is weak and not letting full voltage pass thru the solenoid.
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Okay so it is a solenoid, you are fine using that, sounds like check your connections make sure you got tight clean connections.
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I can tell you this comparing my 340s along side my 250s that I had, night and day difference among the too when you can see them up close, there is a ton more copper in the 340 and bearing are heavier and bridge rectifier is massive. Not to mention the weight difference, 340s have considerable more weight to them.
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Two AQ3500D.1s = 8.6k rms, cost $1598 shipped to your door, best price you will find for reliable power PERIOD!!!
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From what I have gathered, there has been 3 versions of the SMD alts, what is on Steves tahoe(350a), the ones on my truck(340a), then these(370a).
And Steves were from last year use vehicle harness internal reg, mine were beginning this year no harness external reg, new model just released same as mine just more output idle and peak.
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CJ, I came up with 14 in my calcutions, you need around 1000 amps of alt to run that setup for music, so you have 800, you need 200 more amps worth to run that gap. I figured 4-5 more from what you have now will do the trick.
Also you running below 1 ohm? if not you will be good with the 13 you came up with, little to no voltage drop from 16 v range.
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LOL NICE VID!!!!
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Here is a question, just for shits and gigs lol, what would it take to convert my 340s to 370s?
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1
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what changes were made from the 340?
Idle output is very impressive on the 370s. We were able to produce a whopping 200amps at only 500 RPM!!! Most of our ratings show amperage at 800RPM...so you can expect to have more, exponentially, as you increase RPMs. The 340s are solid alternators, but we also found the need for more cruising power for our clients and thus, by altering the internal connections we were able to tweak the product to produce even more POWER!!! ~Michael P.S. These alternators are not readily available yet, to answer the question raised earlier, but are available for sale. email me for more details about this latest and greatest alt from Mechman! [email protected]How do the 340a phase 6's compare to the 370a SMD's besides the obvious 30a gain? Beefier components? More power at idle?That was from my thread of my 340s, someone asked same question.
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Is it a relay or a solenoid? Or an isolator?
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Believe me i know AMI is a mad scientist/genius when it comes to car audio.. i follow all his videos and have had a few short chats with him on youtube PM when he answered my questions. I was just hoping AMI himself could donate 5 minutes and explain how its possible to (safely) push those amps that hard, and maybe a general rule to follow of Watts/electrical when you push your systems lower then 1 ohm. I love learning off him and a few others when i can because not only are they awesome at what they do, they dont mind teaching others which is awesome
I've seen some amps run at .175... But when it comes to electrical AMI knows his shit.Why not just get a few more AQ 3500's? .335 ohms is just retarded low. Lol are you sure that's safe?Thanks for the comments!!! To answer your question, as you cut ohm load, you raise current, since ohms law is proportional Volts = Current X resistance, if you lower resistance and keep voltage the same what has to happen? Current has to go up, as current increases so does heat, to spread that heat out you need more conductive metal to transfer that current ie wire. So if you have more wire going into that amp you can safely keep voltage up, and supply the current to the demand/load/amplifier. You keep heat in check along with proper voltage and it will allow you to do almost anything you want. I spend alot of time testing theory and law against real world results. For one I have ran these amps low before, .25 burp, and .35 on music. I know they need alot of current to run that low, that is one reason for such large alternators and battery bank and tons of wire with the dual inputs.
Reason I didn't go more amplifiers, one is more money, more components that can possibly fail, more space that is needed to mount them, and so on. There is several things that one has to consider in any install.
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I wonder why many of today's vehicles charge at 14.6-14.8v?
Close, but not quite. The highest 'safe' charging voltage you can use is 2.4vpc - volts per cell. In a 12v battery with 6 cells, this comes out to 14.4v - a voltage that will produce virtually no gassing. But lots of members on here charge higher than that with no ill effects. Whether or not you can charge at 14.8 without issue is dependent on things like temperature and case thickness.The general rule of thumb is you can charge your batteries at 2-2.8 volts over the native voltage of the battery. So if you are using a 12v battery you can charge it up to 14.8 volts safely.Voltage drop or loss because of all the shit they have running so after the fact you get down to low 14s at the battery, many companies got smart and started doing PCM control to where the alt shuts down to save the life of the battery even further, us basshead hate those types of vehicles.
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Yes do a ground run front to back like the power.
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Two AQ3500D.1s is 8.6k not 7k, for $1598. Best price for the power.
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Run torres again with just 46.5 x 3.5 for the port and see what length it comes up with, aim for 9 cubes with tuning at 38. I was guessing port length needed to be close to 18 for 38 hz tuning. But you will have to adjust other perimeters to get it right. If you are tapped out on room then I would tune higher with more port area vs lower with less port area.
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Okay then 46.5 x 3.5 x 18 for the port.
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I would do the port the full length of the box so you only have one port wall to do, so it would be something like 45 x 3.5 by 18 long. I did 45 width cuz I am assuming you are doing double 3/4 inch mdf all the way around making it 1.5 inch.
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Tuning is a little low, port area is low, net cubes looks good. 9 cubes net 17-18 sq inch of port per cube tune to 38 hz.
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shrink the net volume. you're gonna want about 7-8 cubes net
Wrong
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What does it do at 1000 rpm just curious?
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My bro in law runs d9 at .25 ohm on 2 hdc3 15s alums coil with no problem in 7.8 cubes 17 sq in of port per cube. So your power won't be an issue. For that power I would do 9 cube net with 17 sq in of port per cube tuned the same. Do you have alum or copper coil hdc3?
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