AMI CUSTOMS
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Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS
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That doesn't even make sense how would you blow the cone out from cutting a dust cap off and replacing it with a new kevlar cap? I have done all 4 of my AQ subs and didn't have a single problem. Sounds to me like if the cone was gonna blow out it was gonna do it regardless of changing the dust cap.
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246a at idle rpm's? Wow nice!
Yes but since my truck idles at 1000 rpm I will see around 260-270 at my idle.
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Frick you could power a house or two off those.
I wonder how much horsepower they take at peak output.
Mechman told me at peak output 350 amp pull off each one I could expect as much as 15-16 hp pull from each one so 60-64 hp loss from the alts wide open.
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Wal-mart any hardware store any auto parts store.
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The specs on all 4 of mine are within 1-3 amps of each other tested voltage 14.4, low speed output at 800 rpm was 246+ amps and high speed 2000 rpm was 346+ amps.
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By cube i meant a square,
Like a box.
As close to a cube shape as possible.
Still 1.3cuft. Just a cube shape
I agree with this with the aero port directly behind the motor out the rear of the cube. And I would test with a 6 inch aero and 4 inch aero.
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It can be internal, for a box as small you would need I would 100% run external aero port.
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Just in case you don't know what 1/4 wave theory is
Measure from the mic location to the sub dust cap in ft. Take 1126/your ft number
Take that number divide by 4 for your peak in he at your 1/4 wave. Tune to that number for starters.
So here is an example measurement from sub dust cap to kick is 5ft
1126/5= 225.2
225.2/4= 56.3 hz
This particular example that vehicle peaked at 57 hz on the meter. But was tuned at 48 hz to account for cabin gain which is this application was tested to be 9-10hz. A lot of vehicles have 10hz worth of cabin gain.
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No shit that is why I said use 1/4 wave theory to figure out your peak in theory it is a great place to start when you don't have a TL. Works well for civics I have messed with in the past.
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Lolz
Start with 1/4 wave theory to find peak of your vehicle then reply back when you find that number.
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I have the stinger volt meter with remote wire. Is it better to wire it to the amp or battery? I tried wiring it to my amp but it didn't work so I figured either I was wiring it wrong, the meter was broken when I received it or I didn't have the wire pushed in far enough and not getting a signal. I was just going to extend the wires and run it to my battery and the remote off my HU but it would be ten times easier to just go straight from the amp.
The stinger meter is super easy to wire the wire are even colored for what they should be connected to
Red - 12v amp power
Black - amp ground
Blue - amp remote
Do that works like a champ.
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You will get some drop into the 12s, if you clip it hard you will see some more drop and the amp could protect, kicker, memphis, alpine, some rockford amps are bad about shuting down if you clip them with voltage drop because they are regulated power supplies that use pulse width modulation to regulate the output, so they make the same power all the time regardless of voltage input. But this has a downside, if you clip them to hard, coupled with voltage drop, they will protect.
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So think I read this right, yellow top underhood, redtop in rear + x975? For 2500zx kicker amp? Hmmmm sure, that will work but you gonna have voltage drop, the newer 05+ version optima batteries hate current swings, ie they suck for car audio, they drop and stay there. 140 amp alt, that kicker amp is gonna pull close to 200 amps plus the mids amp will be another 50 amps, so long story short you gonna have some voltage drop.
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lolz at this, everyone chiming in and no one knows wtf amp he is even running and at what ohm load......
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Ill probably get beat up, but,....... I have had nothing but a killer experiance with Ce Auto, and Tony,.........
That said, i know how into perfection you are to RAM. I mean no offence what so ever.
I do want to say, just my experiance here guys,..... Tony has helped this member out, way way beyond what he ever needed to, or should have done, on several differnet levels.
The dude is a stud. Period.
I really hope the best to you both..........
My spider sense is picking up some homo tendencies in that response....
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Here is a shot of the amps these YELLOW beauties will be powering at 0.335 ohm each!!!!
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LOL WOW
30 members, 298 guests, 1 anonymous users
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Alright got everything DONE!!!!
16 runs of Stinger Pro/HPM 1/0 front to back!!!
Now I must say thanks to Mike, Eric and Josh at Mechman for all their help with working the regulator bugs out with me over the phone and everything works perfectly!!! I have one regulator controlling 2 alts at a time (each regulator has a heavy duty relay and switch in my center console), so I can leave two alts off when daily driving around town for a little better fuel mpg. Also Josh helped me figure out a way to keep the dash light off in the message center since the stock alt plug isn't plugged into anything, that battery light was getting on my nerves. I took a female 4 pin plug and just connect the two middle wires together and plugged that into the stock plug, battery light GONE!!!! Did all the mods to the Quad bracket as well like in the review done about a year ago, bracket is nice and straight and all the alts line up great. I must say I am very pleased at this point, knowing I have a rock SOLID electrical is gonna make this build go alot smoother.
Thanks again MECHMAN!!!!
What mod to bracket? I have tripple alt bracket and cant get rid of belt noise..any info will help
Go to the review section here, there is one a member did of the quad kit bracket. Just got it straight on the motor and got the most belt wrap I could with pulley changes.
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Quick silly question. does that voltage module allow you to turn up and down the voltage? also where did you get it. Thanks man and beautiful alternators.
The external regulator allows for adjustment from 13 - 20volts for each pair of alts. I got them with the alts from Mechman, they are made by transpo.
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Good idea and yes that will work, you could even tie 86 to ign source so you dont have another accessory on your remote wire.
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You competing Midwestspl? If you so you better build some loud shit if you want to do 4 15s for the class you would be in, just my 2 cents.
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And I wouldn't think twice about running dc amp at .25 ohm burp and .35 ohm daily, look at Lenny's truck with 3 9ks, he runs them at .35 ohm each amp no problem unless he clipps them then they go into protect.
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strong electrical for a 10k, is like...4 alts, and a rediculous amount of batteries. lol
Lolz at this^^^^^
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Edit : Damn ninjas
dustcap color
in DC Sound Lab - Big Bass on ANOTHER LEVEL!
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So it was user error then, okay I see now lol.