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Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS
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Depending on gain setting, if sine wave in, then sine wave out, just amplified, whole purpose of an amp in the first place lol.
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That I am not sure on, I got one from an extra xs power harness I had laying around from my last quad kit with VCM. I am sure MECHMAN could send you one or know of where to get one at. Just connect the two middle wires once you get one and battery light gone!!!!
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What is peak operating voltage? 15.5?
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I am doing 4 mids ad 4 tweets wired at 2 ohms each pair which is 170 x 4 on the 120.4 so each is seeing 85 w, so my vision is same but with one amp lol
Hey AMI does running lower ohms hurt your SQ at all??
When you are doing 160s, I dont give a shit about SQ. All about being loud for me.
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So my local stereo shop tells me I need all new batteries when using them together. For example, if I were running only one spare batt it would be ok that it was a used battery. However when doing multiple batteries they say you must use all new batteries so they don't draw down from one another?? I'm confused because as far as I know no two batteries are going to have the exact same voltage. So what is the difference if they are new as long as they all are good?
IT IS TRUE. But don't worry about it. And I hate when people think it is possible for a battery to rest at 13.1v. Any battery that reads 13.1 volts obviously still has a float charge from being charged with an alternator. Highest open circuit voltage possible is 12.80 volts after sitting for 24 hours and usually 12.7+ indicates a full charge
Couldn't be further from the truth, I have pics of my Batcap batteries, 2 different models that when shipped to me, I opened the boxes took them out and put a volt meter on them. It took 3 days for them to get to me so even if they were charged prior to shipping that is at least 72 hours with nothing on them. Resting voltage as following straight out of the box.
Batcap 3000 - 12.97 volts
Batcap 4000 - 12.95 volts
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2 D3100s will get it done with little drop. 3-4 D3100 would be almost no drop.
Hey AMI,
Is there some sort of Wattage guideline??? Just looking to understand how to calculate it.
Thanks
There is several online that give you a best guess and get you over the mark. But I use ohms law and power theory plus real world testing of my own to calculate what is needed.
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3500 isn't bad considering my quad kit with Mechman 340s was close to that figure and it isn't nearly as complex or as nice as that setup.
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2 D3100s will get it done with little drop. 3-4 D3100 would be almost no drop.
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Do the one hdc3 10 off one 2200, wired at one ohm. Do box to 1.5 cubes with a 30 sq inch port tune no lower then 35.
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There is also me too. I have dealt with 10s and 15s in the hdc3, the 10s wanted alot of power, 2k per sub barely got them moving, run alot of port area and then do pretty well on the meter. I personally like the 15s.
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IMO it is a design error that has been with AQ since the beginning, and is still a problem. But with adjustments to enclosure you can help save the woofer longer like you mentioned. All mine that had triple joint failures the glue held it was the paper on the former ripped at the joint causing a complete failure at that point.
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I really don't see how a triple joint is any better after a break in then fresh out of the box. It's not like the glue has to dry over the next 2 weeks. Nor does the spider have some built in memory you have to train to retain its shape. Breaking the triple joint is more to do with the box it's in, not how it was built.
Sub companies want you to break in a sub for one reason. Buffer from a customer doing something stupid out of the box. Plain and simple. When people buy a new sub, chances are they have never dealt with that product before. So the likeliness you actually know its limitations out of the box is slim to none. If a sub manufacture asks you to break in a sub, it's because they want you to learn the limits of the product over the course of time, not to drop it in a box and throw the hammer down on it.
People need to learn their products in the system as a whole and what the limits are, not believe that the product will somehow magically get stronger if you be nice with it at the start. It's a sub, you don't need to take it out to dinner and a movie first. take it no tell motel and give it a good pounding. Just don't expect to stick it in the pole piece if it wasn't designed to take it
The suspension is super stiff, the triple joint it the weak point so it breaks there if to much excursion is going on, now if it is looser, the suspension there is more give at the triple joint.
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If a spider is going to rip, then it will rip regardless of how you play it before it rips. If a spider rips, or you tear a surround, or you bust a triple joint, or toast a tinsel lead, it is because YOU were doing something YOU weren't supposed to. OR something the sub wasn't designed to do.
Subs are stupid. they do what you want them to. If you have them do something stupid, then bad results may follow.
I am gonna have to disagree, in most cases you would be right but being the fact I have reconed about 2 dozen of the hdc3 two different versions in my own truck last season, you have to break the v3 version in or you will rip the triple joint. The new v4 hdc3 has a larger diameter spider so the break in process is greatly accelerated.
Now having said that, I using free air mine on a 250w Memphis amp with test tones for a few hours and works like a champ. Last season if I put a fresh recone in my wall and tried to play music I would destroy them if I didn't have them loosened up. And one set of woofers I played at lower volume for 3 weeks before going full tilt with them or burping at lower ohm load. Didn't have any problems with them. I have dozens of other examples where we broke some in had good results and one where we didnt and had failures.
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So on equal playing field they do same as AQ3500. Nice test!!!
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WELL, figured we would put a solid 10k to this bad boy to see how she does, too much cowbell and this is what you get for buying DC..........
Surround blowout from OVER excursion!!!!
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WELL, figured we would put a solid 10k to this bad boy to see how she does, too much cowbell and this is what you get for buying DC..........
Surround blowout from OVER excursion!!!!
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To the OP, considering all things equal but port area, yes it does affect output, as long as port isn't too big you will generally see increase in output and you increase port area.
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Not nearly enough port area for numbers, double that, seriously.
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Are the subs unloading? If they aren't or getting stinky then the cubes isn't the problem.
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That is kinda what I was thinking and how did 4 18s lose? lol
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Just keep an eye on voltage, starts dropping below 12.0 just back off the volume knob.
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Yup use the relay for multiple amps. I have a fog light relay turning on all 5 of mine best way to go.
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Let me know how that finding copper bolts works out for ya cuz as far as I know they don't exist. Use alum or brass.
anyone had any experience with audioque 120.4
in Amplifiers
Posted
Everytime you drop ohm load in half you drop damping control in half, that is the ability for the amp to control the driver, you also lower the efficiency of the amp, so for ultimate SQ you would want to still as high as possible ohm load wise. But will you notice a difference most likely not do to the fact it will be louder and harder to hear the difference.