AMI CUSTOMS
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Posts posted by AMI CUSTOMS
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Wtf in this whole thread, just unplug those two RCAs at the amp and the amp WILL draw half the current and it won't hurt a fucking thing. How the hell is it going to hurt the amp? A 4 channel amp has two independent gains, meaning they are seperate. One for front and one for rear. They are not tied together in anyway. So if one set has no RCA input signal it won't damage anything.
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And when you have 4+ of these units you are able to achieve maximum cowbell!!!!
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I am doing 4 mids and 4 tweets wired at 2 ohms each pair which is 170 x 4 on the 120.4 so each is seeing 85 w, so my vision is same but with one amp lol
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Not even a smart ass remark or a good chastising??
You're a jackass that will burn up your car's electrical, all amps, and all batteries. Better?
LMAO!!!!
Is it possible, yes, is it practical, NO.
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Aq page on Facebook there is a guy selling a 90.4 and being I was the first owner of a 120.4, I love it great amp great price and very nice power output and sound quality.
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Look thru my old build log of my Sierra and you can see how I did my double din mod. Link in my sig.
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Make your ground bigger at the head unit.
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I like stinger myself, and I pay under $3 a ft for it too lol.
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Get the group 31 version and you will be fine. And to the other comment above xs power isn't the best, they are one of the better battery brands but there are too many factors to consider to say they are the best.
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300 amp fuse for BIG 3, I run 300 amp ANL fuses on all my pure OFC 1/0 wire under 25 ft.
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A solid good crimp is a better connection. The last 1000+ 1/0 wires/cables I have made have all been terminated with mega crimpers and you could pull the ring with a truck and it wouldn't come off. Now that is what I am talking about!!!!
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Yup operator error you bunch of noobs
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I have 5 stinger meters in my truck and all of them work fine. Sounds like operator error lol
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I would run 300 amp fuses for each line. Fuse to the rating of the cable for this type of setup and not the rating into the amp. Otherwise you aren't gaining anything with the dual inputs.
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From the MidwestSPL show in Springfield this past weekend, we ended up taking home 2 1st place and 1 2nd place, in burp class Adv3 we did a 153.9 db on the dash driver door open, beating second place by only .1 db!!!!
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Alright got everything DONE!!!!
16 runs of Stinger Pro/HPM 1/0 front to back!!!
Now I must say thanks to Mike, Eric and Josh at Mechman for all their help with working the regulator bugs out with me over the phone and everything works perfectly!!! I have one regulator controlling 2 alts at a time (each regulator has a heavy duty relay and switch in my center console), so I can leave two alts off when daily driving around town for a little better fuel mpg. Also Josh helped me figure out a way to keep the dash light off in the message center since the stock alt plug isn't plugged into anything, that battery light was getting on my nerves. I took a female 4 pin plug and just connect the two middle wires together and plugged that into the stock plug, battery light GONE!!!! Did all the mods to the Quad bracket as well like in the review done about a year ago, bracket is nice and straight and all the alts line up great. I must say I am very pleased at this point, knowing I have a rock SOLID electrical is gonna make this build go alot smoother.
Thanks again MECHMAN!!!!
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Another reason why you want to run individual grounds from front to back and 4 of them is because copper wire is way more conductive then a steel frame, and with 4 alts you don't want to run 1000+ amps of current thru that metal frame, it is much better suited going thru copper wire.
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The alternator is the charging source you need power and ground to complete the circuit, electricity takes path of least resistance so it all starts at the alt, so ground at the alt. Simple as that!!!!
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I bet that is it, I used Win7 and didn't have any problems and now that I think about it was on a burnt disk.
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Ok cool thats what I needed to know. Thanks!!
and the alts stay daisy chained together right?
Oh and he has the big 3 done already
Edit: How do you like that head unit? I have the DNX9140 and it is painfully slow. I tried to get it to update and I cant make it for some reason.
Yeah either daisy chain them and run individual ones as well or just do the second method and run all cables to the front battery first power and ground for each alt (8 cables total) and then 8 to rear.
I also have a 9140 in my EVO and I know what you mean, this one is lightning fast compared to that unit. It is the best kenwood double din I have had. And you have to do updates with the SD card on the 9140 for it to work right I believe.
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One run of 1/0 off each alt to the rear is fine then, and do one run of 1/0 off each mounting bolt on each alt for ground to the rear. Then do one run power to front battery off one alt and one ground to front alt.
Or you could run all four alts power and ground to front battery first then go to rear batteries. You will have total of 8 cables thru the yukon. 4 power, 4 ground. Also make sure he does BIG 3 in 1/0 at same time.
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and ami what u doing on the computer... go build i wanna see it finished! =]
At work lol, gonna work on the truck possibly tonight.
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Nope just this gay ass lookin lugz comes in a 16.0
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The lugz you seek.....
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XS POWER NEEDS INSTRUCTIONS LOL ("tall" brass posts + i-bar = fail)
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
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Got to lowes or home depot and get a longer allen head Metric bolt, simple, and they carry them I have gotten them for these batteries before.