osamio

x2 !!!!! I wouldn't say they are ultra rare... but they're a dying breed. Exterior should stay the sameee. AT BEST new paint in a classic Porsche color, moderate updates to the interior, clean engine bay, and MAYBE period- Porsche rims... if they're are more stylized ones available..

It's a pain tho. There is NO WAY i'm gonna be able to fish a 0 gauge wire through the factory location. It's tiny. I'm gonna have to run it under trim panels and stuff. Second, the alternator terminal is under the air intake, so i'm gonna have to remove that, or come from under the car, which i can't even tell if it's accessible, and i don't have a lift or blocks anyway. I think it would be easier to just take it to a shop, like, even with the cost involved. IF you have to do all that then the labor costs just jacked up at a installer. If you are still going to have a installer do it, do NOT take it to bestbuy. What do you mean "IF" ? I will have to do all that. I didn't just make those steps up lol. And i wasn't planning on it, i was thinking i'd take it to an alternator shop or my mechanic. whoever will do it cheaper.

It's a pain tho. There is NO WAY i'm gonna be able to fish a 0 gauge wire through the factory location. It's tiny. I'm gonna have to run it under trim panels and stuff. Second, the alternator terminal is under the air intake, so i'm gonna have to remove that, or come from under the car, which i can't even tell if it's accessible, and i don't have a lift or blocks anyway. I think it would be easier to just take it to a shop, like, even with the cost involved.

This Big 3 will do wonders, Then a good battery under the hood. I have the engine block ground, and battery-chassis ground done, but the battery is in the trunk, so i haven't gotten around to running the alternator charge wire yet. I'm thinking about having a shop do it cause it's a pain in the ass. Where should i take it? a mechanic or like, an audio place? We have best buy and ultimate electronics but i don't think they would do that would they? should i have a mechanic do it?

ALL fuses act the same. None are "slow blow" they are just metal at a certain thickness designed to allow so much current flow. You can add batteries or you can up the alt status. Get a bigger one or get another one. I recommend get another battery or two and get a volt meter and just don't let it dip past 12v. There are slow blow fuses as well as quick blow fuses. Apparently not for use in cars. But if you look around there are instant blow maxi fuses as well as slow blow. it's dependent on the length, thickness, and type of metal used in the filament. It makes sense that the ones included for amplifiers are slow blow however. that's beside the point. So adding another battery should be enough to cover it without an alt upgrade?

Didn't know MAXI fuses were slow blow. And Soundstream amps are CEA compliant. Sooo my next question would be what are my options? alternator upgrade? i have 0 AWG big three. would adding a battery help? or is the only option upgrading the alt?

Maybe mathematically that's right, but it doesn't seem right because this amp's recommended fuse is 150amp. says so in the manual. so it can't pull 153 amps. if i work out your equation, 1700 = (14.4 x amps) x 0.7 or 2428/14.4 = 169 amps... that's WAY over what i would expect an amp of this size to draw, and it's more than the fuse it uses... so what am i missing..

I have a 1700 watt amp all the way up on 1 ohm, that would be sq rt(1700)/1 which is 41 amps right? so that means the maximum the amp will draw from the batt/alt is 41 amps right? also is there a way to measure the current being drawn by the car without the aftermarket accessories on, to see how much room i have to work with before i exceed the 140 amp alternator i have?

Kind of depends on who you are showing it off to... There isn't really a wow factor about 2 twelves, the tunnel would take more construction skill and a little more craftsmanship than the one 15 if u know i mean... Then again, someone hopping into ur car is gonna be pretty impressed staring at a 15 walled off... Personally, I like big subs, alot of flex, etc... So i'd go with a 15. It's also easier to build than a tube, and easier to wire up.

Time will tell. But i've beat the hell out of more than a few pioneer subs. Honestly, i was planning to let these go soon, I need to upgrade anyway, my amp has way more power than they can handle.

Subs are fine, why I love pioneer All the coils tested fine, and they worked perfectly on another amp. If anyone is still reading this, i actually found the problem, it was the RCA cable from the equalizer to the amp... a BRAND NEW RCA cable i might add, kinda pisses me off. but i changed the cable, and now all is good. but i have a new problem with the equalizer/preamp. i started a new topic though.

a little over one ohm, and it should be a 1 ohm load, 4, 4 ohm VC. and i know i forgot to mention it, but the subs were fine after the incident with the heat, like, 3-4 hours later, they were ok. this issue started with the equalizer. Unless somehow a short formed a while AFTER the subs cooled off?

As hard as it may be to believe, it slipped my mind, but they read 1.4 something like that, and it's 2 DVC 4 ohm subs in parallel, so should be 1 ohm.

Now that I understand what's going on, I am not sure what's up. My guess is a ground issue somewhere somehow, but that is a bit too technical for me. If Boon chimes in, he might know why it does that. That is more than I understand about how amps work. Sorry about that, I thought you had an entirely different problem. Edit: have you hooked the subs up with the amp OFF, then turned the amp on? Do they still pop? I'm honestly scared to try it. I guess if i do it for a split second to see if it pops or not the subs will be ok... On a side note, but maybe an important one, earlier today i had my gains too high, and i overheated these subs, they smoked a bit, i shut it off immeadiately, tested them later, with music and stuff, before i put in the equalizer. they seemed fine, but is it possible that once they cooled off, maybe a short formed somewhere inside one of the subs? or ALL of the VCs? that seems unlikely AND it seems it would mess up the impedance... but i figured i'd mention that

Ah. so with your radio off, your DMM shows nothing. But, the subs popped when you tried to hook them to the amp. Right? was the amp powered up when this happened? You said your radio was off, so that means your amp was off since maybe you ran your remote wire from the amp? Right after you popped your subs, you again checked the DMM and it still showed nothing, correct? With the RCAs disconnected, your subs do NOT pop when you hook them to the amp, correct? The amp is ON even when the radio is OFF, i have a factory head unit, so i'm using a switched twelve volt wire from the fuse panel in the car, it's tied to the ignition switch, not the radio, so the amp is on when the radio is off. other than that, ur correct. I should also add, after all of this, I metered the amp again, with music playing, and it's working fine output is normal, no huge tone coming through, no pop, played a tone, output seemed totally normal, the problem only occured when i connected the subs. and by going off the impedance... the subs are fine too.

Ah. so with your radio off, your DMM shows nothing. But, the subs popped when you tried to hook them to the amp. Right? was the amp powered up when this happened? You said your radio was off, so that means your amp was off since maybe you ran your remote wire from the amp? Right after you popped your subs, you again checked the DMM and it still showed nothing, correct? With the RCAs disconnected, your subs do NOT pop when you hook them to the amp, correct? The amp is ON even when the radio is OFF, i have a factory head unit, so i'm using a switched twelve volt wire from the fuse panel in the car, it's tied to the ignition switch, not the radio, so the amp is on when the radio is off. other than that, ur correct.

maybe i don't understand your problem. you hooked your subs up to your amp while it was on and they popped. Now your amp shows nothing on the DMM. am I missing something? The amp showed nothing on the DMM when i shut the radio off, i disconnected the dmm, started to put the speaker wire in, subs slammed, touched the leads to the amp, no reading, touched speaker wires to amp, sparks and slammed, disconnected RCA, touched subs to amp, nothing. shut everything off. now i need help.

Don't hook up anything when the power is on...ever...it's like asking to get shocked, break something, or start a fire. Have car off, put in test leads, turn car on, dial in gain and settings, turn car off, remove test leads, insert speaker wire, turn car on. Ok, I'll go try that.

He isn't saying it will fix the problem, he is saying it could have caused the problem. Don't hook shit up when it is powered up. If that is what caused the problem, then NOT doing it IS fixing the problem. the subs are fine, the amp is fine, so, ill ask again, if i hook the subs up, then power everything on, this WONT happen?

Would it matter if the car was on? if you are saying i should hook the subs up with the car off then turn it on, i'm pretty sure i'll see the same result... the amp was on, but there was definetly no music playing. and what do u mean check the subs? they didn't blow, but they will if i continue to do it. It's a bad idea plugging subs in while the car and amp is on...it's the equivalent of plugging something into a wall one prong at a time..it's gonna short. And do you know the subs didn't blow? Have you checked their impedance with the volt meter set in ohms? The reason it may not be putting out any sound to the subs now is because the coils could've gotten cooked and the amp goes into protect when it sees a funky ohm load. Ya, i checked the subs, impedance is fine, and ur saying that if i shut the car/amp off, and connect the subs, THEN turn the car and amp on, this won't happen?? seems sketchy. i'm scared to try it honestly.

I'll have to go check, I did check the impedance and it read fine, there was no short at the terminals, does that mean i need to check at the terminals on the subs? or should reading a normal impedance indicate that there are no shorts? just to be totally safe, hook up ONE subwoofer (one coil at a time also if possible) to the amp at a time and see if that happens again. did you also try different rca cables since you said it doesnt happen if the rca's are unplugged? Ok i'll give it a shot, that's gonna take a few minutes, a little dis assembly, so any more suggestions while i go do that would be great haha

Would it matter if the car was on? if you are saying i should hook the subs up with the car off then turn it on, i'm pretty sure i'll see the same result... the amp was on, but there was definetly no music playing. and what do u mean check the subs? they didn't blow, but they will if i continue to do it.

I'll have to go check, I did check the impedance and it read fine, there was no short at the terminals, does that mean i need to check at the terminals on the subs? or should reading a normal impedance indicate that there are no shorts?

Fuses are good, I honestly can't check if it protects, the only way to make it happen is by connecting the subs, but i don't want to do it because i can tell it's WELL over their rating... if i leave it on long enough to check i'm gonna blow the subs or the amp or both.

They run close to eachother at the very end of the run, but i don't see anywhere it could be shorting out... and why wouldn't the same thing happen when the DMM was on the amp? it was only when i tried to hook up the subs, so i figured maybe the speaker wire was shorting to power or ground somehow but i didn't see anything...