osamio
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Posts posted by osamio
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sorry for the title, but, my rattles are almost GONE... last major one thats bothering the hell out of me is my rear view mirror. i can't for the life of me figure out a way to keep it from moving.... anyone got any advice? maybe i'm missing something obvious.... I don't know. i'm tired of messing with it.
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in all honesty i think the RMS ratings for both are true.
Joke?
no
So are we all retarded paying $200+ for 1500/2000 watt amps...when theres this ONE out there for 100 dollars less than anything else i've seen?
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For a 40$ sub there not bad at all. I played with same sub but 15 on 600watts in my room.
He is trying to run 2 150w RMS subs of a "2000" watt amp... that's my point.
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wait you told him not to but hes still getting them? tell him to get out of his ignorant bubble and get something worth his time. and money.
I did tel him basically exactly that. He has a p3 and a two 10" prefab box... I tried to tell him another rf p3 and an 800 watt amp would hit WAY harder than this other shit, and he's not listening...he doesn't get that it wont put out 2000 watts..
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in all honesty i think the RMS ratings for both are true.
Joke?
i really hope you didnt plan on getting your friend to pick those.
FUCK no. I'm telling him not to... He's just not listening..
niether....
just my opinion.did you not read where he said do not bash? holy hell
I said this cause i thought product bashing is against the forum rules no? and i don't want to get banned..
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Trying to get my point across... So can you guys speak to the quality of these two items, maybe give your opinions on whether or not these ratings are accurate... :
** IMPORTANT
I am not asking you to bash these products, i just want the experts to give some opinions about quality and ratings on this stuff..
Legacy 2000W amplifier:
http://www.amazon.com/Legacy-LA1868-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B000DZB0M4
Pyle Blue Wave Subs:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=267-085
**i know the power is matched wrong, 2000RMS amp to 2x 1000 watt PEAK subs...i'm gonna explain that to him also...
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Wire stretcher = Being a dick
I put it in the same category as snipe hunting....
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^ LOL if i was a heavy chick id use that on a dating site... "Body Type: CHODE"
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85 amp alt? maybe you'd want to do the big 3. That isn't really a risky upgrade... I wouldn't worry about doing that on a new car. Especially if you leave the factory wiring intact and add additional runs.
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500 Db would kill you... actually 200 can cause lung rupturing and damage to other hallow organs... There was a study of blast overpressure after WWI when people noticed soldiers with no external injuries dying from being in the vicinity of explosions... <---Just saying, fun fact of the day i guess...
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Lol you are really concerned with rear view mirror flex? This whole thread is kinda ridiculous... no offense
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I think its one of the biggest misconceptions in car audio. Of course i do have it done in my truck but its got a few more watts than 1200.
Upgrading from 12 to 8 helped me tremendously. Maybe i'm the minority.
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I do shit and then tell my mom.
But then again I'm 19.
^ Lol i second that. And i'm 17. Unless she's REALLY mad or REALLY a mean mom, she's not gonna like force u to take it out... Also maybe try telling her it's more of a hobby than just a sound system. Show her there is a whole car audio community, and that you might even be able to learn some good like technical skills and car related stuff if your into that kind of thing. Idk, tell her about competitions and stuff too... Try to distract her from the whole "driving distraction" and ticket side of things..
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Big 3 and decent AGM battery. Or just big 3, and good 8 gauge speaker wire and good grounds.
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Any even minor differences in how the sub behaves, and how it reproduces/responds to certain frequencies, will cause destructive interference... The system will sound quieter and less clean.
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its the car. there is something funny about the way chevy has the alternators done on them. I cant remember off the top of my head.
Is going to be a problem or something i need to mod? Or does it matter?
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Ahahahahahahaah YES
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Use a DMM to check voltage drop across LARGE parts of the car, For instance, the floor of the trunk should be a fine ground point. Any LARGE area's of metal are most likely part of the main chassis. If you are really worried about it, the rear bench seat will be bolted to the frame, those bolts are probably accesible from the trunk.
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I think 2 volts is a lot but if it's an older car and older alt it would make sense.
Nope, it's an 09..
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Ok but there is a cold to hot drop? that's all i needed to know. As long as it's not unusual or anything. And i will add a relay, i just thought it should work with the auto sensing crap that doesn't really do anything... lol thanks guys
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I just installed a voltage monitor, and i have a couple questions...
First of all, it's supposedly "automatic sensing turn on" or whatever. It doesn't have a turn on wire, just a + and -, and so far, it hasn't turned off automatically... I have it connected straight to the battery terminals... Should it be connected to a switched 12v source?
Next thing i noticed, is my car was idling at 15.2 volts, I have a stock battery and a stinger 1700amp battery, with my sound system OFF i was reading 15.2 most of a drive i took, then toward the end i noticed i was reading 13.2... I dropped 2 volts driving around? I turned the car off and back on and read 15.x again. So my question is, does the alt STOP charging if the batteries are full? Or is there something wrong with my battery wiring/alt wiring that would cause a voltage drop... And i checked EVERYTHING, batteries are good, connections are good...
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no outsourcing is the sending of jobs that were held by people in the united states and send it overseas becuase its cheaper.
But you just posted this ^ correcting my definition of outsourcing?? I said exactly the same thing u did...
look at the time between your post and mine. We were answering the same question.
Ohh ok my bad man.
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all the grounds are nuts and bolts through the floor with paint removed on both sides...0 gauge wire from front battery to distro block, 0 gauge to mono block...4 gauge to T400....
I DO HAVE the relay mod at the headunit with wire from battery running inside for an insured 12v source....
I was at the amps as it was "shutting down" and the power light stays lit..does NOT go in to protect or thermal...which is why this is confusing....
Sorry i read the OP wrong. Didn't mean to tell u about a relay if u already have one. Anyway, the power is on and it's NOT in protect? It could be an issue with the input try replacing the RCAs? or make sure they are connected well, maybe the bass is rattling em loose.
**EDIT
I have to read better. I'm sorry. So you have major voltage drop at your REM when the bass hits? but NOT at the main power wires for either amp? Then try running a larger gauge REM, or check your connections, but you've done that so i'm not sure. I'll keep thinking about it..
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ICHI - I can has interwebs
just my opinion.
Rattle rattle rattle rattle #$@!
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Posted
I tried that, but i hated it. idk, I love my rear view...