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osamio

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Posts posted by osamio

  1. 4 12s would be louder, because more cone area and more heat displacement for the woofers. Also running 4 12s at there max wrms should be fine since they are rated at that, what woofers do you have in mind?

    I have two Pioneer TS-308D4's, they're 400RMS/1200 peak... I have a 1700w RMS amp, i was hoping to run the two subs off it at 850 RMS to each sub, twice their RMS rating, Would that be safe? Eventually I plan on adding two subs and it'll drop to 425 RMS to each of the 4.

  2. Wondering which would be louder? 4 12" sub woofers at 400 watts RMS each or 2 12" sub woofers at 1000W RMS each? And as a kind of side question, what would be a reasonably safe level to push a 400RMS/1200PEAK sub woofer continuously? is it really 400 Watts? is it possible to run a sub somewhere between its RMS and peak ratings on the daily? like, without drastically shortening the life of the sub?

  3. Not to be a dick, but can you read? He said I'll be you $100 that your subs will never see 450. He didn't say anything about the price of your subs, he is betting they won't see 450 watts from your 450 watt amp.

    Nah man i totally read it wrong. My bad. I completely read it "I'll bet your $100 dollar subs will never see 450"

  4. umm... if you were talking to me then you seriously misunderstood my comment. i have no idea what amp you will be running and it doesnt matter. there are a ton of factors to your amps output, such as; recording level of the song, the fact that music is dynamic, impedance rise, "amplitude" of the bass notes, etc.

    im happy to get 2000-2500w out of my 3000w amp.

    You went out of your way to mention the price of the subs, i assumed you were implying they are cheap. which they are, i thought that was meant to be derogatory. Anyway, thanks for the replies. my question is answered.

  5. you know that full gain dosent mean full power right?

    ill bet you $100 your subs will never actually see 450w on music.

    it'll be fine.

    You still need to correctly set the gain to use the amps full potential. The gain knob isn't a volume knob, you don't crank it all the way to the right to "use the amps full potential"

    I know what the gain is. and if i set it low enough, the head unit will reach full volume without the amp putting out full power right?

    and why do u have to criticize the sub woofers? wow man, i have cheap subs and a cheap amp. Cool? now that that's out of the way, maybe just answer the question?

  6. Ditch the caps. Seriously, they don't help your electrical system !

    Just do the big3 in ...4 awg(if it's what you got).

    A lot of people would agree with you, and a lot would disagree. Capacitors with no charge pull more current than the amp alone would, BUT not when they maintain a charge, like if the car is driven everyday. It's obvious in theory and in practice that having a stiffening capacitor will prevent minor electrical issues. I'm not gonna put the time for that into my girl's car just to fix headlights dimming. In my own car, caps immediately improved my bass response too. Better yet, they're cheap.

  7. the longest run burnt up because it has more resistance. the shorter runs (cap to amp) can handle a lot more current because they are shorter, less resistance.

    no go put some proper fuses on that power wire before you burn your car down. upgrade it too. obviously 8awg isnt enough, and it hardly ever is.

    You don't think 8 gauge is big enough for a 1/2 farad cap and a 1000 watt amp? and the same wire was powering the amp before I added the cap, but it was pulling pretty hard the electrical system, i figured it needed a cap...is it possible there's something wrong with the cap?

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