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osamio

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Posts posted by osamio

  1. step one: feel like a dumbass driving that car around.

    step two: buy some decent woofers, DC, DD, FI, something.

    step three: facepalm at yourself.

    Edit: Just curious on how much those lambo door hinges cost. could have had a really nice system for what those cost alone.

    That wasn't a helpful reply at all. Soundstream makes great subs. They make great everything...

    Second, the car looks kind of sick to me, i wouldn't feel like a dumbass in it.

    Third, there called vertical doors, or scissor doors. not lambo doors. Lamborghini didn't invent that look, at all. It was on an alfa romeo first.

    As for the Op, 2.25 cubes is actually closer to the recommended size for the t5, than it is for the Reference. They may sound slightly different, but i'd say it'll be better, as for loudness, if your giving them the same power, they'll probably be about the same.

  2. i know its off topic but damn the 2nd and 3rd posters have the most distracting avitars i have ever seen back to back lol.

    oh and im working on this lol whens it due????

    Agreed. I got like 1/2 the sentence done then i noticed what was going on in those avatars.......... I never finished the sentence, and now my arm is too tired to write... jk jk jk jk hope thats not too inappropriate :o

  3. what would be better, 6 12 inch subwoofers in a sealed box with about 6 cu.ft airspace or 3 12 inch subwoofers in a ported box tuned to about 33hz with about 5 cu.ft of airspace. im talking more for flex and spl not sound quality , thanks !

    You wouldn't be able to tell until you installed it. But I'm gonna be almost 100% certain that 2x the cone area will be louder, even if in a sealed box..

    *EDIT

    Depends on the subs though, because you may be too small with the sealed enclosure....

  4. Let me start off...

    :Facepalm: :Facepalm: :Facepalm: :Facepalm: :Facepalm:

    A couple of days ago i posted about my sub skipping maybe because the bass was causing skipping...

    But today i figured out that i forgot to tighten the screws on the speaker terminals and it totally fell out today..

    I tightened it and no skipping at all :)

    And i was also happy cuz i can move a bit of hair... with only a single 12... only on "put on" <_<

    Glad it's working now lol. I agree, brave for posting this :P

  5. With amps... you get what you pay for... I'd increase your budget a bit. It'll pay off in the end. Sure you'll have to wait, but you won't be using a shitty amp...

    well if it wasnt going on a quad id spend more. but i dont wanna spend more than 100$ on an amp incase it breaks from vibraton or bumps.or the worst case that i roll my quad

    Ah that does change things. But then again, a low quality amp will be more susceptible to vibrations and bumps causing damage internally. But, i'd honestly go with a Dual amp from walmart...the Xps i believe, is 400 watt,well not really but thats what they claim, and it's cheap. like 80 bucks i think... And i'd STILL take a walmart pos amp over Boss. I've had horrible experiences with boss.

    **edit

    that should say "eighty bucks" idk why it made a smiley.

  6. This might of been asked before, if so i apologize. Anyway i have a big wind shield vinyl, and several rear window decals, and a banner. I'm going to get tint soon, and please don't laugh at this question if i'm completely wrong :peepwall: I know nothing about this lol. They lay it out and stuff on the outside right? but the tint actually goes on the inside? So will i have to replace all my vinyls? or will it be ok?

  7. I was set on thinking i'd just need another battery, and the AMI Customs called me a noob because i was worried about draining the battery without a high output alt:

    Lemme get this straight, if i have a stock alt, but a high capacity deep cycle battery, The battery will handle the amount of current my sound system draws that the alternator can't handle right? Which brings me to this:

    What happens when i drive say, 20 minutes, bumping the whole time? If the sound system is over-drawing the alternator, then the battery will not be charging, and when i shut the car off the battery will be too low to start the car?

    And substitute any amount of time, i mean, let's say i drive an hour, then i could potentially kill the battery completely, and have to shut the system off to allow the alt to charge the battery before i shut the car off??

    This is why people run battery banks. And yes you can do exactly what you are saying happens to a lot of people who have no idea what they are doing, we call those people....noobs....LOL

    But apparently if it's not full blast 1700 watts the whole time, i should be fine, so i'm not really sure why he has such an issue...

  8. all depends on what amp your stock alt is. if your alt is like mine(like 70 amps) then you will proly need one. if its a decent amp alt then you will be fine with a couple batteries. the amp in your sig is a pretty beefy amp and will drain some power

    I have a sunroof, bluetooth, xm, heated seats...So i have a decent alt, i'm pretty sure it's 140. So hopefully i'll be good with as second battery. and yea its the amp in my sig.

  9. I've been asking random questions, kind of beating around the bush on this, but what it comes down to is i have a stock alternator and battery, 0 AWG big three, and a 1700 watt amp running along with all the stock electrical, plus a few lights and stuff here and there. I know that 1700 watts continuously will over draw the alternator, BUT for daily use, driving around, listening to music, with breaks between songs/beats, times with the volume down... etc... so like, not true continuous full power, will i REALLY need a high output alt? Am i going to have problems with my battery dying etc?

  10. bump.... any other ideas??

    That's how you do it though. The Iphone SDK, which they only make for macs, is available for download. It comes with an Iphone emulator to test your code, and even has a front end for submitting your app for approval for the app store.

    I've never used the Android SDK, but i'm sure it's a similar type of thing, and probably very similar object structure. Bottom line though, you won't be able to just dive into it, Iphone (and Probably android) use a pretty complex object-oriented programming language. If you don't have java or C++ etc... experience, you won't be able to do it. IF you want to try though, just google around for some tutorials. Honestly, you'd be better off submitting your idea to an established developer, and hope they like your idea... that way they will do the work and you will get some money out of it. An iphone/android developer will also be taken more seriously by Apple when reviewing the app for submission to the app store.

  11. first time posting here.

    I drive a 2002 tahoe and im ready to clean it up

    already ordered a grill, new valance, projector headlights and the interior im gonna personally do gray and black with red piping on the seats.

    but to the audio section

    i currently only have a a cheap jensen touch screen, planet audio bb65pro speakers with a jl 450/4

    i plan to replace everything. if i do keep the amp it'll run my tweeters.

    i plan to run nx5 tweeters with Selenium mids.

    subs im still in debate over and was hoping you fellas could help me out.

    2 T3 t2000 15's

    2 Dc Lvl4xl 15s

    sub amp will more than likely end up being a Stetsom 3K7E(4500rms at 2ohm) unless i find 4500rms else where under $650...

    which subs would you run with the power i plan to use? T3 is local but have no problem ordering from rusty or picking up a pair off the forum...

    btw yes i will have the proper elec, 2 250amp alts, 2 xs d3400s under the hood and 2 d3100s in the back. should be more than enough imo for 5000rms

    I'd be really skeptical of "4500rms" for only $650...

  12. Yes, you are correct for the most part...an amp will put out less power at 12 volts than it will at 14....now what does that have to do with a high SPL build? Is this not a basic truth used in almost ALL forms of custom car audio, not just SPL?

    And yes...you are upgrading. But you still fail to see the logic. If I decided I would upgrade the system....I would still upgrade the electrical before I even bought a sub which can't even efficiently and properly see full use of the amp, which reminds me...what amp is this? CEA isn't all that truthfully.

    Point being...why upgrade the gear when you don't have the means to properly use it anyways? The first thing I would upgrade would be the groundwork required for a setup. Not buy a sub, then debate between a battery and the second sub, just me. I still say work on your electrical.

    By SPL, i meant i'm not competing or anything. I mean, I am personally not concerned with 100% of the potential being used. I will sacrifice full power temporarily.

    Also, I didn't buy the amp, it was gift, sort of.. but i didn't intentionally get the amp and sub before doing the electrical.

    Oh and its a Soundstream DTR1700. I know it's putting out at least 1500. I'd be suprised if it DOESN'T reach 1700. And i don't know man any major name brand is CEA compliant, and they set the standard for the certifications and such as well. I trust that if the CEA rates it at 1700, it's 1700. (in ideal conditions of course, full power, good connections, large enough wire etc.. which i'm as close to as i can come without a battery...)

  13. a month isnt that long its going to be that long or more for me to even start my build

    That's unfortunate man. I'm saying a month cause i'm due for a youtube check. If i wasn't getting that. I have no clue when i'd be able to afford it, more than a month.. thats for sure.

    dude hook me up with subscribers and views i need a partnership haha

    Dude if i could get one i would. BIG difference between partnership and revenue sharing. The only reason i make money is cause i threw some content ont here that got a lot of views... like just one video. Steve and them get money on EVERY video. I seriously think someone could almost live off money like steve gets from youtube... probably over 10-15 grand a year. I make 600ish off 1 video, he has like, a shit load, and he has in the millions of views. i only have 150k.

  14. I'm curious...what does SPL have to do with stable voltage?

    I personally get my electrical taken care of first. Like, I only have a rough IDEA of what I'm going to run when I set my electrical up, just me. Putting deals, rare finds, and great bargains aside, I don't understand how anyone can buy equipment without doing that first.

    I would do a battery

    An amp on 12 volts wont put out what an amp on 14 volts will, correct me if i'm wrong.

    And I had a system, now i'm upgrading, BEFORE when i only had 400RMS subs, my 1700RMS amp was fine at half power on stock electrical... But now i got the money for my subs, i have one of them, and i realize that i may need to do the electrical if i'm going to run 1700 watts. thats all. If i was starting from the ground up, i too would get electrical done first.

  15. Whats your youtube osamio?

    ^^this

    Whats your youtube osamio?

    HA don't get excited. The video i have in revenue sharing is about my website for hacking with linux, it's in revenue sharing, so everytime that ONE video gets views, they put an ad on it, and i get a few cents. Everytime my adsense account reaches $100 i get a check :drink40:

    If you still want to look the video is here:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iCNgt_4WqoE

    My channel with vids of my sound system too:

    http://www.youtube.com/user/osamiax33o

    Adsense screen shot: :lol:

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=31353908&l=a758bd9158&id=1567395161

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