BIG-SEXY AUDIO
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Posts posted by BIG-SEXY AUDIO
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It was popular back in the day, we're talking 1980's bro, everyone is into extreme porting and walls, were it use to be if you had two 12's in an isobaric box you were the shit, It's what some old school bassheads did on a low budget, so 2 12's made one 24" sub movement. But the enclosure has to be under 2.0, unless you bandpass it. But like I said too much time it to add up everything to be perfect, the out come isn't that great either.
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Correct an isobaric box is an enclosure that halfs the same need for a standard box, you must have two subs that are mounted either facing each other, or away at the same angle as the other, the subs must be wired out of phase. Therefore you've created a some what push and pull method. to make a means of one big sub movement. the subs act as one. Which I mite add is very hard to get right, spacing has to be perfect, enclosure has to be the half of recommended. Very tricky enclosure.
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Let me guess ?The ZX2500.1?, yeah 4 is just fine, my enclosure was 12 cbft external, so around 5.6 per sub tuned @ 28 Hz, with only 900Watts going to each, KX1200.1, I keep them in safe mode the whole time I had them, and they dropped Hz as low as 22Hz, loved the setup, the L7 15" can take it, they just aren't a good SQ sub at all!
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360 is a maybe, but it's more for EQ, which is great but I don't need the (20 band per channel EQ)(false statement just being humorous) not to start off I what to get the system up and running before EQ'ing it. Memphis X-Overs+amp x-overs+comp crossover=clean ass signal
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When you made an enclosure to big, you loose sound preesure, due to the scale surface area of the sub to the volume of the box. The L7 is designed max 6 cbft, over that is over kill. Lows start to bottom out with that much power in a ported enclosure. I'd love to see some pictures of the setup, to see just how the enclosure is built! I believe you and all, if you don't build it to deep it should keep the sub pressurize from the back, but but still puts the sub under strain.
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6 is maxium for those things, and you're going to need a shit load of power to push them in that big of a box, over 1200w RMS to each sub, a T20001bd is a great amp, that will push the shit out of them, but I need more details, what amp are you using, and are you going to be test your dB number with these and daily beating cause tuning that sucker has alot to do with how loud it's going to be in your setup, I know the 15" L7 by heart bro. I use to own two with them last year. 150.2 on the 2005 TL, it'd hit somwhere around a 147-148 on this years. Get back up wit me.
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You want to hit serious lowes, but still keep most subs in safe mode, 28Hz all the way, It's what I tuned every enclosure I can, it just enhance Hz between 29-38. I love that tuning, at low volume the bass is so deep and clear, it aggre. your ears, I love that, and as soon as you turn the volume knob, :nuke:HOLY SHIT :nuke:, they'll drop like a pro, just watch your Fs and Q.
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Trust me, I've worked with many of their products, not the best in the world, I really like the Memphis X-Over, they'd fit, do what I need, and look great while doing it. There's two AUDIOBAHN systems I've build, the second is for a 2005 Honda Civic.
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It was an opinion thing, I like to hear others opinion on different things, I also posted a topic for Memphis if anyone seen it. I didn't ever say I was going to buy the damn things. Slack Please
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They're to big to fib in a center console, great products, plus they $$$$ for what I need them for, I just really need the X-Over's not the EQ's.
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Just sucks having to buy a Palm just to control it, they should have made a dig. screen control, or H/U uplink to control it, it would have sold easier. I know it's a great device but DAMN, I don't feel like tuning all those bands per all those channels I'll have, it'd take weeks to get it just right. I'm a contist tuner, that's why I like have controls at my hands, soundstream has some great product, but they have some shity ones to, the Memphis will probably be my choice, although I what to install the Epicenter, so I go with SoundStream's BASS RE.
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Come on Bitches, comments please!!!!!
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Well what do you perfer David, I was just asking about AUDIOBAHN EQ
s, I'm going more towards Memphis' X-overs, but I would like to know people's opinions on brands and why!
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First I don't have a Palm, and Don't feel like fooling with it, I like having my controls in hands reachs, about the only thing I ever really tune is the gain and mid-bass x-over freq, and want it in the Yukon
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Well see they well be fib right into the center console so I can tune it to each song, I have a picture of how I do my Explorer, but that was with a cheap Boss X-Over, works great, but when you put over $8,000 in a audio system, you want the best X-over or otherwise spend that much money, MEMPHIS black chrome finish looks great, and I trust in Memphis.
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Got to keep this on the new posts list so everyone can see, comments, opin.s, anything I'm willing to hear it.
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Got to keep this on the new posts list so everyone can see, comments, opin.s, anything I'm willing to hear it.
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Like I said on the Audiobahn post, I'm looking for two, two way crossovers, so that I can use the two channels as my front and back, then loop the sub line through both Crossovers, for the purest signal. And Memphis I know is a good brand, but again have no experince with their EQ's or Ex-Overs, but love their Speakers and Subs, their amps tend to over heat!
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Been looking around for some small in-dash EQ and crossovers, and SoundStream is my #1 choice, since they make a #2nd type of Epicenter and I want to run all the EQ and crossover on the same brand, but Audiobahn EQ's looks nicer plus the 8volt RMS isn't to bad either but I have no experience with their EQ's, just their subs, which I hate to work with. They just can not build a good sub to me, but love their amps!
So even someone has any say so or info on the subject please share it!
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The shit works so I'm sticking to it, it spreads it instead of soaking the windex up. Hell just look at all my pictures posted on my CarDomain, they glemming. It also helps with blake dust, the Yukon really needs some aftermarket brakes, BAD!
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Don't tune those X's too too low, they're build for Hz range of 38-50 at full tilt, so say 36 Hz to call it safe.
REAL MAD POWER
Everyone get out saying :-[DAMN CUZ :-[
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Fo Sho' I just don't really need the T30001bd's, T20001bds will do pretty close to the rated RMS of those T3's, but with two T30001bd's, that's 6000 watts RMS, so you'll be seeing close to 8000w RMS, with two o'v'f dem bitches.
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Signal and crossover comes in to play on those statements. I have an 12" L5 with a KX1200.1 @ 2 ohms, which is pushing over 800 RMS, in a 4.6cbft SPL Box tuned @ 31Hz. And my little L5 can't handle all that power. The L7 is near $250 get an FI Q's but you're going to need to wire that amp to an higher ohm, so you don't fry the voice coils. The 2006 Kicker series had a new voice coil design, the 2005 series had a problem in it so they corrected it, since everyone was frying the coils. Greta sub but they're better out for in that price range.
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CUZ, you must be out ya' mind pushing 4000 watts to that sub, I have compet'et'ed with two of them in a 12 cbft box, and I'm here to tell you 1200 watts RMS to one of them is all you want and need, cause you're going to fry the voice coil in the first week!!!!!
You want to push that much power to one 15" sub, key word FI Audio, just one 15" BTL would be penty, it's only $150 more than a L7 15". I promise you be quaking with ease then, And you'll be able you put all that power to that sub. 200% better SPL & SQ, cleaner, tighter, and better timing than a L7.
Check 'EM out www.ficaraudio.com
Dual L7 15 ported design
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Kicker recommends 3.0-6.0cbft for one 15" L7, but 6cbft is the max, The L series was purely designed to put air, It's the reason it was built Square. DownFall to the design is the SQ is for shit, the old models the cone would flex due to the sound pressure on it's way back out. But anything over 6cbft, is asking for a fried sub.