D_Roc

Technically my sub can take all of the amp but I don't run it full tilt for daily. So the gain can pretty much be set wherever without clipping, I just don't want to overload any of it for daily/long term use if that makes sense? Basically my amp is great for competition settup and would be no problem setting with the bass remote but now that I have to set it and leave it I want both the head and amp to have the lowest possible draw for a long life (ironically, like everyone else on here, I change equipment like underwear......once a month ). Appreciate the reply Rusty!!!

This may be a dumb question but I always get good advise from SMD! My amp is overpowered for my sub (for daily use) and my remote knob has broken so I need to set my gain and leave it. Is it any easier on my electrical system to set the amp gain lower and increase on head unit? Or is it any easier on my head unit to set the bass setting low and increase gain on amp? In theory I would think it would be better on the head to set the bass low and increase the gain but better on the electrical to increase the bass on head and lower amp gain.?.?. It's not a huge issue because I have adequate voltage but would like my battery's life to last but also want my head unit to last as well. Maybe there is a happy median?.?. Just curious, maybe I'm thinking about it the wrong way. Insite is greatly appreciated.

Well....I posted an add in the WTB section so hopefully someone has something in my $ range. I am going to wait and see if I hear from anyone promptly. If not I suppose I will go with the DC OEM 185 unless anyone else has any suggestion. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated if anyone knows of any other price concious options? Anybody with a website for cheap reliable alts please attach link. Or if anyone knows somebody trying to sell one that will fit my 03 blazer please forward them to this post. I can pay immediately via paypal if you have something worth offering. No BS please. I also have 2-10" Pioneer Premier Champion Pro's (pretty much brand new) if anyone would like to take them on partial trade. D2's model. Thanks again fellas! I am always happy with the responses I get on this forum. Great knowledge base. Any reasons I shouldn't go with the DC 185 for my system please let me know. Appreciate it.

I have a 2003 Chevy Blazer 4.3L 6 cylinder. I am wanting a name brand reliable alt that will fit the OEM mount. I have a Powerbass xa4000d with 2 Sprinter s12v370f batts in the rear. I have minimul current drop on my stock 100a but am wanting to run idle for shows so must have high idle amperage. I am currently updating my settup to 2 - Powerbass xa3000d's so will be running 6k rms. These PB amps draw a lot of current! The 2 monster batts I have take a lot of the load but I need power to be stable while idling. I am currently pretty stable at 14.8 Volts and drop to 13.5 ish full tilt while driving and drops off substantially while idling so I don't attempt. I would like a nice alt with a high idling amperage. Must be in great mechanical condition / not so concerned about cosmetic. Must be able to handle the full load of 6k RMS with the 2 batteries I have. IF YOU HAVE A NICE H.O. ALT FOR A CHEVY BLAZER AND AT A REASONABLE PRICE PLEASE EMAIL. I am currently considering the 185a/140a idle from DC for $250. Obviously, I will not pay that much for a used without warranty unless you have a really nice model. Would prefer to spend less otherwise I will get one under warranty from DC so must be worth my while. Appreciate it! Not on here often so I'll get back as promptly as possible. I can send payment via paypal regulated P2P immediately if you have something to offer. No B.S. offers please. Must fit OEM 2003 Blazer 4.3L. PS: I also have 2-10" Pioneer Premier Champion PRO's that I would do a partial trade + cash on my part if interested. They're basically brand new. Dual 2's.

Yeah it wasn't regulated much if at all. It was basically a guy with a termlab and a pop up awning. It was technically my first car show I guess you could say and from what I saw I wasn't impressed by any systems there. There was a guy with 4 RF T2 15's that was pretty impressive but he was sponsored and didn't even compete, he was just there playing it for demos. I know Memphis hosts some pretty large comps though and since moving here I have become interested in mobile audio again. I'm big into home audio but recently got back into the mobile- a lot has changed in the 10 years I was out of it!!!!

Wow thats a list of conditions. I had no idea there was a complete written set of rules that specific. I went to one here in Memphis and people basically drove up, cranked it for a sec, and whoever had the highest score well.....that was that. It was a local pawn shop putting it on though so I assume it wasn't very well regulated, HA! I was just there shopping for some tools when they were putting it on, didn't pay too much attention to the rules.

How do you get to the classifieds on here? Kind of new to this forum, didn't see a tab to get there or anything (feel like an idiot asking).

I also didn't consider I can probably sell my stock alt for a few bucks to cover cost as well. I just hope that the DC 190/140 idle will cover the load of 2 PB xa 3000d's. I am pretty sure it would adequately take the PB xa4000d I have now but those 2 3k's draw a ton of current! I can get those batteries for $100 a piece which is an amazing deal but I don't necessarily think adding any more battery reserve is going to help the issue long term or running at idle for comps. I've never run in any comps-do they let you rev your RPM's or are you expected to run at idle? Not very familiar with how the comps work, just want to try 1 or 2 to see how I can do. I have my current 18 in a custom acoustical line-x enclosure (4 coats) and it sounds absolutely amazing for 1 18! I've heard a lot of single 18 settups and I haven't heard anything that could touch it in that box. My buddy has a solo-x 18 on his sundown 3500 and it isn't even comparable. (not trying to sound conceded about my system because its not anything special but I think it would be a competitor in some comps).

Yeah I keep looking at that 190a OEM from DC it adds 10a @ idle fora few bucks more. Their next model up is running $350 so majordiff in price to jump up a series.

stock. I have a digital but unhooked it, I have blacked out windows and I got a bad reflection off it at night. Between that and my double din it was too much light (I think I'm getting old, sounds like something my dad would say ) It was reading right there with the one on the dash anyway just responded faster (give or take a couple tenths).

Yeah they have a 185 that idles at 130. Do you think that would handle that load? That's amazing it idles at 55A less than with a higher RPM! If it were me I would pay the little bit extra and get a higher amp Alt. It's better to pay a little extra now than get a cheapo one and it fail and then have to buy the one you should of in the first place. Or buy one that isn't enough output go through the hassle of trying to sell it and buying the one you should of. That is my EXACT fear!!! Just want to make sure I purchase the correct one and have to do it once! But I also want to find the best deal possible you know. I know on paper if you run the calcs I technically need a 250-270 with what I'm running but I have a stock 100 and it really doesn't do too bad with the excessive battery bank I have. I am surprised the stock alt is doing as well as it is to be honest!

Yeah they have a 185 that idles at 130. Do you think that would handle that load? That's amazing it idles at 55A less than with a higher RPM!

I dont have much drop now so I'm not sure how much I need to increase my output. I am affraid of buying something that can't handle daily though! The DB idles at 105. That DC looks nice and I've heard great things but by the time I add ship its up there in price. I just don't want to spend a fortune because I don't think I need all that much more?.?. If you find a great deal let me know though, sounds like your in the same boat.

I have a 2003 Chevy Blazer 4.3L V6 and have been looking for a alternator on a budget! I have found a few cheap options on Ebay and on DB Electrical. Here's the links: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170605521671&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-4993-200-amp.aspx Are these going to hold up? Any experience with either? The Ebay one I'm looking at is $235 shipped. This is the email reply they sent. Seems extremely cheap. it has a larger case but smaller pulley and will fit OEM bracket. New, not a rewind or refurb. HI, it's made in USA by transpo electronic on 1200rpm should give you 270 amp maximum output power watt 2117 watt I just don't want to buy a alt that doesn't hold up or isn't going to put out it's rated. Background: I am currently running a powerbass 4000d on an 18 BTL with a stock alt and 2 sprinter batts (125ah a piece). My voltage drops to 12.5-13V when I crank it and rests at 14.4-15V when off. Not terrible but I want to try some comps this summer and it drops significantly while idling!!! I am going to change my system (in progress)and will be running 2 powerbass 3000d's on 2 Treo SSX's. That is a major increase in voltage requirements and I would like to run in my first comp this summer without being laughed out of it because of V drop! I have never ran an HO alt, I usually just increase my voltage bank enough to compensate. I just installed one in a buddy's car on a SAZ3500 and he has NO voltage drop even while idling so that made me reconsider!!! If anyone has any other options for an alternator or selling a used one that will fit please reply. Appreciate your input guys!

You Think so? I may try the sprinters alone and add the stingers back in later if the sprinters don't do the trick. I have high hopes for the sprinters, they're absolute beasts on paper. They appear to stack up to the kinetik 3000 series spec wise.