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Polecat

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Posts posted by Polecat

  8. Kicker L7

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    I'm willing to spend at least $300-400 on the amp. I got the subs brand New for $300. So wat POLECAT was saying is in the proper box, proper amp like no voltage drops and clipping i can exceed the RMS just a lil?

    seems to be a decent budget, remember, you get what you pay for so look for a good reputable amp that will do good power into 1 ohm. Properly setup, gains set with a DMM, ported with a SSF, IMHO, the woofers will last a long time. Usually when people play below tuing, max gains and or bass boost, sending clipped signal or just overpowering subs, is when they fail. Then they blame the driver, but not their ignorance.

  13. Questions On Sx Series Amps

    in Kicker Car Audio! **** READ ONLY ARCHIVE

    Posted

    I've got a SX600.2, a SX1250.1 and the SXRC and I have a couple questions about them.

    I'm currently running the 1250 at 2 ohms on a pair of Infinity Reference 1230W 12" 300Wrms subs, the SX600.2 is at 4 ohms per channel on a set of Alpine Type-X SPX177R 6.5" comps. Head unit is a JVC KD-G820. Stock electrical with 1/0 from battery to distro in trunk and 4 gauge from distro to amps (4 gauge to 1250 ~ 2 feet). This car is my commuter and my trip to work is about 9 hours of driving. I am also looking to get a 180 amp alt from Dom and doing big three in 1/0 as soon as I can.

    Now for the questions:

    1) the 1250 seems to get fairly warm, it shows up at about 10-15 degrees C (~20* F) above the 600.2 after about a half hour at mid volume and if I'm beating on it will rise to about 65*C (150*F) after awhile. Is this getting dangerous, could it indicate a problem? I'm also thinking about getting a dual 2 sub and dropping it to 1 ohm, will the temp's spike a lot higher with that?

    2) This last summer I was driving home from work (about a 9 hour drive) and halfway home the amps started cutting out and then trying to restart a couple seconds later, sometimes cycling a few times, then come on and if I turned the stereo off for a couple minutes they would play for 10-15 minutes at mid volume and then start acting up again. I left the system off for about 45 minutes and they seemed to be alright after that and I haven't had the problem since. When I go into the sick bay it shows the overload code and low voltage I think it is. I can understand the low voltage because I was beating on it for about 4 hours on a stock electrical system. What can I do to prevent this?

    3) Is there a way to erase the history on the amps?

    4) There are so many settings on this thing. My HU has subwoofer control that has level adjustment and crossover adjustment, I can't find any way to turn off the crossover for the sub-out and my options there are 80, 120, 160 Hertz. From what I can find I believe the HU has 4V preouts for front/rear and 2V for sub. What would you suggest as a starting point for settings on the amp, primarily looking for corssover points and slopes but any other tips would be great.

    with both those amps on a stock electrical, sounds like it just needs more juice then what the stock system will do through a 4 gauge setup. if they get theremally too warm, they will indeed shut down. The amps have fans, but are they getting good air flwo acorss the heatsinks? 9 hour drive, possible low voltage, and heat, could shut them down.

    You can reset to factoiry settings on the amps in the DSP, booklet should walk you all the way through it.

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