Purplehaze
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Posts posted by Purplehaze
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Coustic Amp-460 bridged on two MTX Blue Thunder 12's. Sealed box in my aunt's 89 Grand Prix. She bought it brand new and I am still shocked to this day that she let me rig that system into her car.
Haha that Coustic 460 was my first amp also. Only I had it running a 10" Soundstream USA in a bandpass box, in the trunk of a 1991 Hyundai Scoup. It was a D4 sub, so I had the amp wired one channel per voice coil. It did alright though, I was really happy at the time. My 10 hit harder than most 12's w/ that setup.
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I couldn't find a d1 diagram, so I was just telling them another way to do it.
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Yep, that's right. If you have 2 d1 subs, you can either wire them in series, like he said, and you will be at 1 ohm, or wire them parallel and they will be at 2 ohm. The third option is to wire them down to a .25 ohm load, but that will mess up the amp, if it would even play at all.
If you need help figuring it out, just use a wiring diagram for d2 ohm, and cut the #'s in half when your done. Is anyone confused yet? Lol!
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Thanks man nice share!
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Man, I am no professional, and I could be wrong. But I would think it would be better to use the chassis ground, and use your wire to connect it in multiple points. That way the car's metal and the wire both work together for the entire electrical system. I just came across this same issue, and I chose not to ground directly to the battery alone, but both directly and indirectly, if that makes any sence.
But again, I'm no pro. But my dad is a 40+ year industrial electrician, and his opinion was that I did it right. But he will also tell you he is industrial, not automotive electrician. So who knows. But you can see how I did it in the link in my sig. Let me know what you decide, and what you think of mine.
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Yeah, I wish I would have found this thread sooner. I got one b/c I thought I needed it. They should say on them: Not intended for car audio use. 4x4 or off road use only!
I am in the middle of a build, I just got all my electrical finished, only to see the rear battery not seem to charge. Although, it is charging, just barely. When running, the front battery is at 14.1 and the rear is 12.8 - That shit just aint gettin it!
I was told that adding a voltage regulator could fix this issue, but I aint spending anymore on it, I'm just gonna do away with the isolator.
If anyone needs one, I have an ALMOST new Stinger 200 amp relay/isolator for sale. I just paid over $60 for it, I'll take $40, plus 10 to ship it! Still have original package, only installed for 24 hrs.
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Rt now I am at this:
425:1244
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From South Australia!
For those who care it's a DD2512a being fed by an Audison Lrx1.1k.
Edit: It's taking ages to process and that seems to be messing with embedding, so if you want to see it, click the link at the top rather than using the embedded player.
Damn that looks wild seeing the SW on the other side like that!
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This is what I have at the moment. Things will change in 6 more weeks!(tax time) This set up hit 140.2 on the meter, I was surprised.
2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser
"big three"
factory cd head unit
Kicker 08S12L5 12" L5 Solo
Soundstream PIC2.600
Kicker DS650 component front and rear
Kicker ZX350.4
Soundstream 2 farad capacitor
Several hours of wire hiding
My Lexus ISF 20" AZA Staggered Wheels - from the ground up FINAL PICS PAGE 6! THEY ARE ON!
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
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Man that is gonna be slick as hell!