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Jmoney2544

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Posts posted by Jmoney2544

  1. Both Amp are about the same price but i dont know which one to get

    I want to choose which ever one will play my speaker louder

    Rockford Fosgate 50 Watt Amp

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_19566_Rockford-Fosgate-PRIME-R300-4.html

    Pioneer 60 Watt Amp

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16645_Pioneer-GM-6400F.html

    Both amp are cea-certified so i would pick the pionner cause it has 10 more watts to each speaker. (40 more watts total)

    Just to make sure im buying the better amp, whats your guys opinion?

  2. I Like Loud, Low Bass That Slaps.

    Originally I was going to get...

    (2) Audioque SDC2.5 15's

    (1) Audioque 1200D

    ($606)(Total 1200 Watts RMS)

    Or

    (2)Pioneer TS-W3002D4 (1000 Watt 12's) (http://www.sonicelec...TS-W3002D4.html)

    (1)Audioque 2200D

    ($700)(Total 2200 Watts RMS)

    I was surprised on how cheap i could get them... $160 for a 1000 watt cea-certified brand sub!

    Do you guys think it worth 100 bucks more for the second setup?

    what's your opinion on those pioneers?

    I Like sql Setups

    Your link didn't work. IMO I would go with the AQ, but I am biased. And the truth is, AQ has a much better quality control reputation and better customer service.

    And FYI, there are not supposed to be VS threads here..

    link works now. are those pioneer subs loud?

  3. I Like Loud, Low Bass That Slaps.

    Originally I was going to get...

    (2) Audioque SDC2.5 15's

    (1) Audioque 1200D

    ($606)(Total 1200 Watts RMS)

    Or

    (2)Pioneer TS-W3002D4 (1000 Watt 12's) (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16665_Pioneer-TS-W3002D4.html)

    (1)Audioque 2200D

    ($700)(Total 2200 Watts RMS)

    I was surprised on how cheap i could get them... $160 for a 1000 watt cea-certified brand sub!

    Do you guys think it worth 100 bucks more for the second setup?

    what's your opinion on those pioneers?

    I Like sql Setups

  4. I was going to say, if you give us exact dimensions and volume of the box, we can help you out better. There is not a reason to have that much space in there for 2 15's. The only thing that is going to do is hinder peformance and sound. Technically, you could put 4 15's in that box for as many cubes as you have planned for. You can downsize A LOT. If I had the proper stuff here at work, I would have you give me max dimensions, and then volume needed per sub and go from there to design you one. You can easily do this on your own if you google some information. You will need to know how much air your driver displaces. Nominal volume in a ported box for you subs. Tuning freq. And dimensions of your box. Just remember, it may not come out the same size you have planned right now, but it will probably sound a lot better. Planning and preperation are far more important that going big or going home. Plan it out right, and take the time. It will pay off.

    subs call for 3-4.5 cubes each so it needs to be big...

  5. It will work, but it is hard to tell how it is going to sound. It might pound away and sound good, or it might just sound like crap. I would go with a more traditional box design if you can, seeing as they are proven to work already. Then again, if you have the money and time to kill, why not give it a shot. Who knows, it might be the next big thing?!?!?! I haven't personally ever seen a box ported like that, and I have never seen your car to be able to predict how it will sound.

    what do you suggest i do? make the box semetrical and lose about .5-1 cubes?

  6. he's gonna have unloading issues, i dunno why he would want the subs to face the cabin and the port to fire into the trunk.. he would have no bass at all.. to me that box would be junk, but if it was a suv.. then ya it might work.. but i have my doubts.. i've explained this to him last week.. and he's still sticking to the same drawing...

    there not facing the cabin, there facing back

  7. Hey, I Know Ive Posted This Last Week But I didnt get a lot of feedback and didnt tell you guys 1 key thing.

    Inj the picture i have the port back 7" because i need at least 6" for the air to go because if i made it a perfect rectangle the port would be blocked by the walls of my trunk so i had to indent it 7".

    Will this box design work? If it doesnt then could you guys please tell me what i have to do? Thanks

    http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn150/Jmoney2544/?action=view&current=ithinkigotit019.jpg

  8. every car is different

    when i did my very first box, i built a box with sub back and port back, and it sounded alright and then built another but subs up and port back and it got louder, then i did subs up and port towards cabin and sealed it off and got louder again.. so its all about testing and seeing what you like...what you could also do is get a sub and box from a friend and do all the nessary setup and see what sounds best for you. Again every car is different due to peak frequency

    when i had my 2 type r's it sounded best facing back. I could extend my box width to 36" in the front to 15" depth and then do a 34" width to 12 inches to make a total of 27" depth. that might give you a little more room for a port in the middle. also i dont know what the diameter of the subs are with the black mounting part. is it still 15"? or more?

  9. ok you have 2 options, slot port on side or in middle on same side of subs, or do subs up, port back and you can deal with 5 or 6 4 in round ports :), take a pic and i'll sketch one up

    is there a sound difference from putting the subs up to facing them back? would putting the subs up have less bass?

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