Bakerman
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Posts posted by Bakerman
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Good to see N8, Skippy, and LT Smoke still creepin. The rest of you, i don't remember yall.
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bakermanINC, i was saying since the yellow wire isn't long enough just connect more wire on it and run it to the positive terminal on the battery
yes...that will work. I thought you meant it was already connected to something, and that you were going to splice into it. That could end up bad.
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ohhhhh so i can run a wire off the yellow wire to that battery and then ill be good right?
"run a wire OFF the yellow wire"? The only thing the yellow wire should be going to is a constant power source...nothing else.
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Simple fix. Your red wire coming from the headunit is the on/off wire. Meaning, that when power goes to it, then your radio cuts on, vice versa. This is the wire that you will need to run to a switch, or to your ignition, or to a fuse...as long as that wire gets power when your car is on. Some peolple use a switch here so that they can run the radio with no keys in the ignition as well. Your yellow wire is your memory wire, aka the constant wire. This wire has to keep power at all times. It is what is responsible for keeping your clock, radio presets, equalizer settings, etc from reseting every time you turn your radio off. This wire will need power constantly, so therefore you will need to run it to a source that has a constant 12v. Such as your car battery, or a fuse that has constant power. Your only other option, is what you referred to...being rewiring the entire radio harness. This isn't a simple task, as you will need to do research to find the stock harness, as well as one to match your radio. You will also need to find a wiring diagram for the stock wires to the car, so that you don't mix up anything when wiring in your stock radio harness. I personally did the last option in my car, because I'm OCD and like everything to be as uniform as possible. That way if someone else has to work on my vehicle, they aren't left guessing at what is what. But like I said, some will say this is easy, but just make sure you take your time, double check everything, and keep everything in order. There is nothing more discouraging than pulling out a headunit and seeing a rat's nest of wire and electrical tape.
EDIT: Had a typo...told you I'm OCD
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Yeah, i tried it yesterday. It gives me a grainy video, with the audio lagging behind.
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But to the guys reading, I never did figure it out. The guy who had this system came by one day while I was sleeping (I work night shift) and thats the last time I've seen him...even though he lives a block down the street. My guess is either he figured I fucked it up, or got someone else in town to get it working. Oh well...
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bypass the fuse holde rand link the two ends of wire together. what does the end of the wire look like? Is it ring terminals or a push block style? Any corrosion on the wire? Is it turning green? does he have a cap or anything in the back of the car? extra battery?
I never tried bypassing the fuse, but I probably should have. The ends of the wires were all clean though...free of corrosion. And the first two fuse holders we used were ones where you just stick the stripped wire in and tighten down the screw, but the one we used from my ride were the kind that the wire has to have a ring terminal on the end. And there is no cap or extra batt in the back. Just wire, amp, and subs.
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So, the other day I went out and dropped a few hundred on a new camera so that I could get some more Youtube footage. Well, the camera saves the vids as an ACVHD or .MTS file. I've downloaded several .MTS editors and converters, but I always end up with the same problem. The end footage, whether converted, or edited, always loses its 1080p quality, and the result is a grainy or laggy video. Does anyone know a fix to this without spending a buttload of $ on software?
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Like stated before, I've changed the fuse holder, several times. Still same problem. The only thing I haven't done was bypass the fuse and just use the wire. And I did not want to do this because the guy who has the system is real inexperienced, and tends to try to work on shit himself. I take out fuse, he cuts a wire, truck burns up and its my fault because i wired it up. But, next time he comes by, I will just bypass the fuse temp. and see what kinda voltage I am getting. If its still the 1.6v then there is something wrong with that wire...I will just donate some of mine to the cause and get him beating.
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Normally heat would come with a situation like that, in my case it did and the bolt was hot to the touch, and I would think if you're seeing it drop that much, the fuse holder would melt.
This was my reasoning...but there were no signs of heat damage ANYWHERE...which is why I am dumbfounded. I tried 3 different fuse holders and 4 different fuses...all had the same problem.
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Do I have this right? You connected the dmm lead directly to each side of the fuse holder and got different readings?
You sir are correct
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its a long shot, but maybe part of the power wire has been separated internally?
That is what I was thinking in the back of my mind. Because he's got no heat or fire, so i can't be shorted out. And its getting a little voltage, so something somewhere on the wire is still connected.
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Yeah bro...you always need a fuse.
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Okay, so this guy I have never met before dropped by my house to the other day to ask for some help on his system wiring. He told me straight up he didn't really have a clue, and wanted me to check over everything. Well, of course, he had the ol' self tapper for a ground, and the power/ground inputs on the amp were Y'd and wrapped around the screw, and simple noobie mistakes like that. So, me being so helpful, fixed all his wiring...put some o-rings on his ground wire and found a suitable ground, put some spade connectors on his amp inputs, and put them in correctly. BUT, his amp would not power on, so I grabbed the trusty DMM. With the car running, his remote wire was seeing about 13.5v. But his main power input at the amp was only showing about 1.6v. So I went under the hood, and started checking there. I used the battery ground, and tapped my DMM power directly into the main power wire at the battery, and it said 13.5v. When i checked the power on the battery side of the inline fuse, it was still 13.5v. But when I went to the amp side of his inline, it dropped to 1.6v. Thinking the fuse had went chuck norris on me, i changed it...and this particular fuse holder used the blade type fuses. But to no avail, I still had 1.6v. He had a spare inline fuse, with a completely different fuse in it, not blown. This was the kind that uses a glass fuse. So I completely changed out the inline, and this still didn't fix the problem. So now I'm getting frustrated. I actually take a working fuse holder and fuse from my ride, and install it on his...but it was still showing 1.6v. I have no idea what the problem could be. I had assumed maybe he had a short between his fuse and his amp, but upon visual inspection, i coudln't see any burn marks, or burnt insulation on the wire. And the guy told me he had not smelled any kind of smoke or burning smells at all. Hopefully someone knows something about this without me having to completely run another power wire for this guy.
EDIT: I kinda feel like it is my fault it stopped working, because before I started wiring, the amp was actually working. When he would turn the system up, the amp would completely shut off, but that was due to his faulty ground. So I assumed by cleaning up his ground and amp inputs, it would solve the issue...but now it will not turn on at all. The only time I touched the power wire was when I put a spade connector on it so that it could properly fit in his amp input...but when I did this, I had removed the fuse, so it had no power, therefore was unable to short out while I was working on it.
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Alot of people hate, but the type R's i used to have did amazingly well. And I've since upgraded to serious equipment, so I know good speakers. But, like he said, he's not asking about equipment, just box designs. I believe the first design will give you the least cancellation...but at the same time, idk shit about bandpass boxes, so don't listen to me.
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Hey man...I got an AQ2200 that has not even been removed from the box. Never had any power or anything. Bought it as a second amp, and haven't used it. PM me if interested.
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I'm confident that it's the loudest unwalled ZX3 on the planet.
Yes...challenge accepted. Hopefully my recones will be together this by this weekend, and we can get my zx3 bumpin. I've got two 18" Fi BTLs on 4 AQ2200's. So, we might can compete...lol
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Does your "bass knob" use coaxial cable like in the link above, or does it use the kind that looks like telephone cord?
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A slight rant, but lets not call any names. But I absolutely hate it when someone is all for something, and they get a little butthurt, so they completely turn to the opposite. For example...lets say we have someone who is a regular on the forum, loves everybody here, and has lots of friends and is well respected on here (not saying that someone from the forums did this, its just an example). Well, for instance, they get called out on a lie, or get proven wrong, or someone just rubs them the wrong way. The next thing you know, they are all about "fuck steve meade" and anything with his name on it. Just b/c someone on the forums pissed em' off, now they gotta hate everything to do with the forums...they talk all kinds of shit, like everyone here is the epitamy of white trash, whenever they used to be one of us themselves. But for some reason, everytime you see them, they are always showing off how everything of theirs is just like steve meades, but amazingly, it was his idea before it was ever meades. SMH...people are fucking retarded.
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That's hilarious. You think that db app is actually accurate?
I did make that comment that "I'm not sure how accurate it is". Its seems to be accurate on the mids and highs, but I'm pretty sure that when it comes to low end freq. it wouldn't be worth shit. But also, there are a lot of other useful tools on the app.
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Okay, I have android market, so I'm not sure if its on the Itunes market. There is this app i use on all my builds called "Smart Tools". It has multiple different tools, such as several "length and angle" tools, "compas" tools, "distance" tool which accurately uses your phone camera, and also "sound and vibration" tools. It has a db meter that uses your phone mic to pic up DBz. I'm not sure how accurate it is, but it seems to be pretty legit. If i'm not mistaking the app is $2.99. And even if you don't use the DB meter, the other tools make it well worth the investment. Also, you can purchase the tools individually if you don't need all of them.
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If this isn't sold by my next payday, ill get it.
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No use crying over spilled milk. I lived in the country, and had a huge lab that was around 120lbs. Great huntin dog...lots of training time spent with him. When I moved, I was making a round trip every day to feed the dog, b/c I didn't have a fence and stuff set up at the new house to hold the lab...went back one day, and someone stole my lab, and left the gate open so the jack russell terrier ran off. We ended up finding him about 2 weeks later under a neighbors trailor almost starved to death.
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So, about 2 years ago, I had a lab. Some people down the road had a red nose pit. My dog got out the fence, and had some fun. Well, when I was in the process of moving, someone stole my lab. So I was lucky enough to get a puppy from my lab the and pit down the street. His name is dexter.
Hey.... an OG peeps out there??? Sound off a bit...
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
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Man, decades? Well, nearly a decade since I posted anything of valuable content. Lol. 2012 I believe. But I'm back for now.