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Bakerman

SMD Gold Member
  • Content Count

    1524
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About Bakerman

  • Rank
    150db
  • Birthday 08/08/1988

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  • Website URL
    https://www.facebook.com/BakermanINC

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Myrtle Beach, SC
  • Interests
    I'm here for the guns.
  1. Bakerman

    Components or Midrange Sub

    2001 2500HD
  2. Bakerman

    Components or Midrange Sub

    You are %100 correct. The stock mount is a 4x6, so I will be fabbing in an adapter to hold whatever speaker I get. A little fiberglass work never hurt anyone. And i do feel like you are right on the whole impedence thing as well, but im not sure. I thought the overlapping would take place as long as I didn't have a component set to break down the signals. So if I did the tweeter and speaker in parallel, it would just lower the impedence. Ill have to test that with a meter in the future. But at the end of the day, I don't want to blow my head off with an abundance of sound in the rear. I just don't want to fell offbalance with all the sound ahead of me. Thats why I was leaning heavily towards the mid drivers for behind the head since they do well with voices. It may help level it out, without blowing my brains out the other side.
  3. Bakerman

    Components or Midrange Sub

    Right now it is stock 6.75" speaker running off of a cheap headunit. I don't like to install until I get everything in. But i have a set of the SoundQubed 6.5" component sets for the front. The 6.5" driver will be in the door, and the tweet on the a-pillar. It will be powered by a 4channel amp. I don't have any room for dash speakers like my s10 used to, or that would be perfect. And I really don't want to blow my head off with another component set on the rear. Thats why I was thinking of the mid driver for the bpillar to help even out a little, while still giving me more sound.
  4. Bakerman

    Components or Midrange Sub

    I am working on a single cab silverado. The amp powering my normal speakers has 55W rms per channel, for channels. My door speakers are the SoundQubed component set, that handles 75wRMS. I am having a debacle on what to use on the B Pillar. Should I go ahead and order another component or coax set for the rear, and call it a day? Or should I go with a midrange 6.5" speaker that SoundQubed offers? The mid is a single VC 4ohm, and I can pair it with one of their super tweeters to get it down to 2ohms, and get a little more power out of the amp. Never used these types of midrange drivers, and figured Id see about an opinion from the masses. Here are the speakers I am looking at.
  5. I have a HiFonics 4 channel that I will most likely use to power the components. I am not sure if it is a Brutus, or a Zues. And it is old...like 10+ years old. I purchased it years ago, and never used it. Now it sits in a storage unit, along with a shit ton of other audio equipment I NEVER used from back in the day. I have a set of the old Fi BTL's with the saucer magnets in there, and even a couple of AQ 2400 amps. Back from before AudioQue made the change over to SoundCubed, or whatever the fuck they are now. So, I will be powering the mids and highs on the amp. I was just curious how the distribution was on the headunits when they give that power rating.
  6. So, when I'm looking at headunits, it always has an RMS value x4. For example, it says RMS 40watts x4 channels. My question is, does this mean each output is 40 watts RMS, or is the total 40watts RMS (10watts/channel). Also, is there an impedance rating on these things? I understand how amps and woofers work with ohms and such, and how to wire in series and parallel. But I never seen anything on impedance for these headunits, but the component sets always show an impedence. Just dont want to overload my head unit by wiring a mid driver and tweet to the same output channel.
  7. I want you to watch the video below...then read. I don't know how well that link worked, but lets pretend it did. Well, this is how I got to that point. Notice that I had a wire coming through the door jam. Not the safest thing, but for the last year I have been avoiding it, and it wasn't causing any issues. Well, today I had the door panel off fixing the speaker that wasn't working, so I decided to follow it. Well, if you look in my first post, you will see one of the pics shows all the pretty orange driving lights on the cab and bumper. This wire goes in between the the lights on the bumper, and the lights on the cab. Basically connecting them together, getting power to the cab lights. As I follow it down through the door, and into the engine bay, I see some obvious issues and fire hazards. Then I proceed to follow it to the bumper, where I see a rats nest of wires old tape, and cheap splicers. So, what was happening was the previous owner had about 15 orange lights between the cab and bumper, along with the two angel eyes on each headlight, and several other vanity LED's on the headlight and turning light all wired into a splice on one, ONE, pigtail for the driver's side turn signal. So that one, ONE, 12 gauge wire was spliced and was feeding power to all those various LED's and such. Combine that with the absolute shitty wiring job that you see in the photos and video, its a miracle this truck hasn't gone up in flames. And don't get me started on the tail lights. I don't have any photos, but let me tell you about that nightmare. I noticed the tail lights were stock, and 1 gen newer than the truck. Cool. Nice little upgrade. Well, one of the bulbs went out, so I needed to change it. Well, when I pull the housing, every single bulb is taped to the taillight with electrical tape. Apparently, the previous owner wanted the tail lights from the cat eye Silverados. Got some, and went to install them. The mounting screws for the housings were a perfect match. But the pigtails (I was about to explain what a pigtail is in this section, but realized if you don't know what a pigtail is, then you're probably a person that would do this kind of shitty wiring) are different from one gen to the next. Instead of spending $20 on the correct pigtails, and wiring them in to fit the housing, genius just forces the bulb in the hole as good as he could, then taped them in as best he could. And hint, it wasn't very good.
  8. Hey Guys. Name is Jonathan Baker. I used to be VERY active in this forum, prior to getting married when I had a lot of expendable income. As I've grown and advanced in the world, I am financially able to fund my audio addiction again. Last year I scored a nice 2001 Silverado 2500HD. Long story short, when my wife and I were moving to Myrtle Beach, SC I needed a truck to move things, so I bought a dodge dakota at a vehicle auction with tax money. When we moved here, I wanted to get rid of it. Found a guy from Texas that had moved here as well, wanting to get rid of his truck, for something with better gas mileage. So for a direct trade, I scored this 2 wheel drive, single cab, long bed 3/4 ton truck. I have ambitions to lower this thing a bit, do some bolt on mods, and get it to the drag strip on the weekends. It currently has less than 150k miles on it, and is showing a code for a knock sensor. So that will get replaced when I get the balls to go in the motor and change out the valves and cam. But first, I want to get some tunes in it. As it sits, it has a cheap kenwood single din, and only one speaker works. Yesterday I got inside the panels, and got both door speakers working. This is what made me realize how much I miss this aspect, and got me back on this forum. So, to keep from going on and on, I will just show off a few photos of this truck. And bear with me, things have changed since I was last on here. So there may be some delay on how quick photos are added. Now, at times I do use this truck when me and my buddies go camping/hunting. To be honest, I got super tired of sleeping on the ground during the cold winter months. So, one of the first "mods" I did was to install a camper shell, and basically turn the inside into a "camper". All of this is removable, and is normally only installed during deer season. But nonetheless, it houses a single bed, some solar panels, a 12v battery bank. This power cell phone charger, light, heated blanket, etc.
  9. I definitely will be posting a build log. It may take a bit to get going, but after the holidays I am jumping in head first. Thanks...will definitely look into the free ones. I don't do enough of car audio anymore to justify spending money, so free is always good.
  10. So, its been a while for me. 5 years or more, since I had any aftermarket audio on a vehicle. But it seems I got the fever back again. In the past, I would always use Torres Box Tuner when trying to figure out what the best setup is. Is that still the accepted norm? Or is there any new software that outperforms the old software? I bought a dakota extended cab earlier this year for a steal, and finally got it up and running. Just an old truck, so looking to do 2 subs, around 2k watts, decent head unit, and couple of mids and highs. Prolly FI for the subs, AQ (now known as soundquebed i believe) for the amp, AQ mid driver and tweets in the doors, and most likely an alpine single din. Pic is of the truck I've purchased. Also, any tips from people with experience on extended cabs. I did build a similar setup in an ext-cab S10 back in the 90's.
  11. I know this is an old thread, but anything new? I just bought a dakota like this, and I am looking for ideas.
  12. While extremely dangerous, this is still hilarious. At an old job, we had a female decide to shoot the 40mm launcher, and hit the top of the shelter, shattering it and almost causing the entire thing to fail. Then of course she swung it around, flagging everybody, telling everyone how sorry she was for damaging the shelter.
  13. Actually, in the video above it is not my land. It is some land a friend of mine has set up a small range on. The run and gun lane is actually a pathway that has been cut out for fourwheelers. But we were the only people there, so we decided to use it as a run and gun lane. But, I am in the process of setting up my own range.I have some property that my wife and some of her cousins inherited from their grandfather. Its about 164 acres all together. The initial setup will be just a normal shooting range. A place to go to in order to make some videos and things like that. I even have one bloke who has already wanting to rent it out on a daily basis to teach his CWP classes. But I do love the run and gun setup, so I am already studying the google earth images trying to figure out a place for a good run and gun lane. Half of it is going to be in the open field area, and the other half will be in the woods, all the way back to a river on the property. As a matter of fact, below is a video out of the series I am doing. Check it out. N8, of course they were on tripods. At least all of the ones that were in front of the muzzle...lol. I have a few gopro knockoffs, and some older 720p cameras that won't break the bank if they catch some lead at 2700f/s. So i use those to and some clever mounting techniques to get some good shots.
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