Derrick824
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Posts posted by Derrick824
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Got a good bit of work done today. Here's the pics.
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I have two boxes that won't ever be used again. Local pick up only. I'm located in Sumter, SC.
This box is for two 18" subs. It was built for a Dodge Magnum. It is 10ft net volume with four 6" ports tuned to 36hz. It will include the four 6" psp ports that are installed. It will not include any speaker wire. Price is $120 obo.
This box is for three 18" subs. It was built for a GMC Yukon. It is 15ft net volume with six 6" ports tuned to 32hz. Price is $75.
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You would be wasting your time getting a second amp unless you ran them @ 0.5ohm each. Two amps @ 2ohm each will do the same as a single amp @ 1ohm. I'm not familiar with those exact batteries but it seems like you have a very good electrical setup. Depending on the specs of those batteries you should be able to play of saz-3500s @ 0.5ohm just fine.
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I have the green Explorer. The Excursion is my brother.
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There's a zillion different ways you could run the wires and lots of different grounding points in a vehicle. Where exactly will you be grounding your equipment in the rear of the vehicle? The two main choices are body or frame. In my Yukon all my stuff was grounded to the body so under the hood I upgraded the ground to the body. If you're gonna be grounding to the frame then upgrade your ground to the frame.
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All you do is clamp the two sides together before assembly so that the bearing rides on the other side. When doing a project like this & you want both sides to match it's a good idea to free hand the first side then use it as a template to cut the other side using a flush bit.
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There's a factory ground located on the firewall. Run a larger ground wire from the battery to there. Run your engine ground to the bolt on the side of the alternator bracket.
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Don't take stereo advice from an auto parts store.
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You'll do better with 4 small amps rather than 2 big ones.
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The amp on the left why don't you take off the silver sundown symbol and flip it around so it is right side up like the one on the right
Gee, would of never thought of that. How about wait on the finished product before knit picking it? kthnx
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ZOMG on the 160 @ 35hz. gj guys! how did you manage to fit 12 18's inside an explorer??
Shoe horn, ca glue, duct tape, and a big f'ing hammer.
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I'm awaiting payment from someone but haven't heard back from them and haven't received payment yet. If I don't see their payment tomorrow it'll go to the next person that PMed me.
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Correct me if i'm wrong, put isn't the fs on the nightshade like 43hz? This build is proof that you don't need a sub with a low fs to play super low notes,,,I guess it really is all in the install, great job
The NS plays the lows exceptionally well for an "spl" sub.
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ahh yeah thats cool.... They should be back to Ohio and have em up later today. We also gotta figure out if we can bypass the fuel roll over switch.
Hahaha funny stuff. The bass was so violent it tripped the vehicles inertia switch (thought it had been in a wreck) and cut the fuel pump off.
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It was actually 34hz. We were trying to read from the screen & thought it was 35. Like there's a big difference. Next time we'll do some testing down lower to like 28hz & see how well the score holds up.
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Crazy thing is it really doesn't lose that much with the passenger door open so it will make a great Bass Boxer.
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The crazy thing is we didn't do any real testing to figure out peak frequency. Just a quick low volume sweep then play the first tone on the Ipod. And that was only about 2/3 volume. Subs were barely moving.
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Got some preliminary #s from testing today but I'll let Rob tell ya'll what they are. I will give ya'll a hint that this thing will be EPIC! I don't think anyone else in the history of car audio has been this loud at this low of a frequency. And it's no where near finished or even tuned in properly & only took it up about 2/3 volume. Basically it's done just enough to play. Also Rob has a couple vids of some serious hair tricks, one with the vehicle sealed. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif
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I promise you that this thing hurts wayyyyyy worse.
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I really didn't do that on purpose. Was just testing out the fit and bam! Cock & balls. Now I can't stop saying it.
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http://www.maxxsonics.com/autotek/acc_main.html
MLX-100 MAXX-LINK™ Universal Link & Sync™ Amplifier Bridging & Synchronization Module
Features:
•Universal Amplifier Bridging Interface
•Permits Interconnecting / Linking Mobile Amplifiers
into a Master and Slave Configuration
•Link up to Five (5) Amplifier pairs
•Remote Level Control with 3-Stage LED Clipping Indicator
•Master / Slave Control Switch
•24dB Adjustable Low-Pass (35Hz to 250Hz)
•Built-in 65 Hz Set-Up Test Tone
•24dB Adjustable Subsonic Filter (15Hz to 35Hz)
•10dB Adjustable Parametric Bass EQ
•Variable Wide / Narrow Bandwidth Control
•0 to 180° Adjustable Phase Control
•2-Ch RCA Audio Pass-Thru
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It's a strapping module, line driver, remote bass control, bass boost, crossover, subsonic, etc. It doesn't have to be used as a strapping module. It can be used more as a controller of multiple amps.
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Perfect working condition. Rca outputs started to get loose so my brother put a drop of glue on them all and it stained the chrome on the side. I guarantee everything works perfect.
16 Sundown sa-12s build
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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