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THEMERQ

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Posts posted by THEMERQ

  1. On 8/25/2020 at 3:11 AM, SnowDrifter said:

    I would be surprised if that fried it. It's just a DC reference signal. Same as you'd get on the 'positive' side with the volume down.

    Toss a new  battery in, make sure your cord is plugged in all the way. Try measuring again either on the deck, or pick an arbitrary low volume setting on the deck and check at the amp.

    I installed a new battery and it worked correctly, thanks. The old battery was at 7 volts..

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  2. i was setting the gain on an audiopipe ap30001d with the 40hz 0 db tone and i set everything up the way it was supposed to be. i had the dd-1 negative connected to the amps ground and i noticed while turning up the gain that it would distort with the gain very low, but not at minimum. so i set the gain down to the point with no distortion. then while the dd-1 was still on i disconnected the dd-1 negative and connected it to the negative output terminal on the amp and it sparked a little bit when it touched the negative on the amp output terminal and the distortion light instantly lit up. i tried seting the gain all the way down to minimum and it still shows distortion. what happened? before i did that even with the gain at minimum there was no distortion.

  3. ah ok i gotcha.

    as far as the box, looks good. except you want the port length of the wood to add up to the 'physical port' length. so making it so the wood measures out to be 25.75" long, this will make your effective port length 32". 32" - 5.5" (for the port height) - .75" (for the thickness of the box wall/baffle) = 25.75". measure down the middle of the port and you get 32"if it were me tho, i'd change the port to 16" x 6", and make it anywhere from 15" - 20" long. i like to tune my boxes a little bit higher tho. sounds better for daily imo. plus gives you a little more volume for the subs

    i still dont understand what this means. i saw a correlation with the numbers before i posted the box but i could not get it. basically what your saying is even though i chose the port to be 32" long. it only has to be 25.75" physically? and just to make sure, if the port will bend then the port must stay the same width all the way through right?

    i also tried making the port 6" wide but it was coming out to some crazy long length.

  4. ok i came up with another one, i think this one is perfect. sanitarium thanks for your design but i have to shorthen the heigth as little bit.

    new external dimensions are 42" wide X 24.5" deep x 17.5" high. that gives me 8.63 cubes gross. minus .28 cubes of sub displacement, minus .07 cubes of bracing. 8.28 cubes NET before port displacement.

    port inner dimensions are 16" high x 5.5" wide x 32" long with 3 common walls. that will tune the box to 30.02 Hz and 88 square inches of port area.

    for this box the port must bend at 18.25"(this includes the baffle) and run another 13.75" to complete the 32" of length corect?. so my two port pieces will be 17.5"x 16", and 13.75"x 16"?

    all this yields 6.19 NET cubes @ 30.02 Hz.

  5. this is all using the torres box calculator.

    my outside dimensions are LxWxH 40.5 x 24.5 x 19.5 it comes out to 9.7 gross cubes. bracing displacement is .11 cubes, driver displacement is .28 cubes. that leaves me with 9.31 net cubes before port displacement.

    my problem is i cant seem to tune the box to 30 Hz without volume dropping drastically AND maintaining 12-16 square inches of port area AND a 1:6 port ratio.

    i tried the port at 18" high X 6" wide X 30" length and that drops me down to 6.82 NET cubes, 108 square inches of port area, and 1:3 port ratio.

    i tried 18" high X 3" wide X 11" length and that drops me 8.68 NET cubes, 54 square inches of port area, and a 1:6 port ratio.

    this is for 2 15s and im trying to maintain at least 4 cubes per sub. what am i doing wrong?

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