FiNaLaLmAsY

hmm lets figure 2 soundstream splx12s Fs:29hz idk if that helps and the trunk space available is about 39in Length,Height no more then 15in my rear speakers (RE XXX 6.5in) take up a lot space so height 15in all i have to work with, depth/width 20-22in. Slot/Vented ported. running about 1750Rms per speaker on a 1000rms speaker. heres what i have now picture wise.. this is a 2-12 transmission line enclosure which i love prefab but going for little more spl but keep my SQ i hit every note clean. this box is 34x18.75x13 with 12x4in port i believe cant remember the port size... and transmission line box so like a sealed/ported deal... QVC FTW

ok. heres the question can anyone give me a 3d view how this should look Says Vented Optimum 2Cu F3 of 33hz Tuned 36hz Port 4x18 and Qty 3 ports my question is the (3ports) how does that look or be built??! i have 2 of these subs and i already have a decent box for them a nice prefab but want to build a 34hz or this 36hz box my main question is the porting. or if someone has any ideas be great thanks! nick

okay! im at work and be getting off at 4 and take my car apart when i get home ill keep u guys updated how my issue gets resolved. thanks I had the similar issue with one of my Audiobahn's. It kept losing a lot of db when I would drive around and hit a bump or if anything would jar it slightly. So I fixed the issue by re-seating the amp and securing it with self tapping screws. I also made sure I had the best ground possible. Pure metal to metal contact. After I had done all of these things I only noticed one thing that could have been the issue and it was my power wire to my amp, it hadn't been pushed in all the way so it was showing some wire slightly and I think when I would drive, it would shake it from within its port, causing it to lose a lot of voltage while I was playing music. So just make sure everything is getting the best possible connection to your amplifier and make sure everything is as secure as it can be. BTW, uploading any and every picture you have questions about to help demonstrate what you're talking about will help us give you a much better solution to your issues if you end up having any after this. believe it or not Ive tried almost all of those things. but i will take pictures and a video of what it sounds like and doing! ill upload it around 4:30ish EST and you guys can give me an idea. im taking the system apart when i get home to install a Vmax 800amp battery so i have to take most the system apart anyways to do that and will check everything again! thanks!!

okay! im at work and be getting off at 4 and take my car apart when i get home ill keep u guys updated how my issue gets resolved. thanks

i think it could be the RCA but. last week i did try re grinding and moving my ground used a 3in digrinder. my RCA's run on the Right side of the car and my power runs on the left. first thing i did a year ago when i got the car. and im confused BOTH amps have the issue doesn't make sense they both have the same issueyou know.. ive had these amps for a long time no issues. im thinkning the RCA but ya could be many things.. :\ my buddy he worked for a car audio store and been doin this for years said try a Ground isolator i just dont want to waste money. but not sense the money more getting something junk and losing SQ..

hey guys. im pulling my hair out im not sure if it is the output on the SUB Output of my alpine HU or the AMP inputs. i have both my sub amps bridged and using the right RCA inputs and sharing it with the headunit RIGHT with a Y SPLITER. every time i hit a bump or anytime the amp moves or gets vibration you hear a "boomy sound that the amp produces to out the subs" and going to the road full tilt it sounds very different and losing a lot of SPL and SQ. i thought maybe it was the RCA because i broke the Right RCA cable and fixed and works a little bit..so switched to use the LEFT on as my right on the cable and Headunit output. and when i plug anything into either amp it makes that horrible sound and soon as you move it or bump it u hear that boomy sound again..would a GROUND isolator work? if so whats a good brand cheap i could get retail cheap and good. if any questions if something doesnt make sense just ask typing this kinda fast. lol thanks!

02 Nissan Sentra and dc power 270amp alternator. 0awg to the chassis for ground. 0awg for the engine block ground. 4awg to alternator and battery. and yes lets put it this way for volume i have everything max out at 21 out of 35 on my HU its alpine 9886 then start to lose SQ after that.. driving down the road i can get about 14/15 on the volume im still 13/14v range any more then that it sucks it down to 11.8/12.2. but! if i mute it instantly! its back at 14.4/14.9 and yes i know what you mean checking voltage ive done from the alternator with my dad helping as i turn it up. the battery. and the amps. and right now its running from a 12volt plug stripped on the + and - to the leads to the DMM in the car it all reads the same. maybe some areas its .1 so off nothing serious. from the battery is a 0awg about..12/13ft run? its a small car..and then to a gold block with 2 4awg runs about 1ft to 1. 1/2ft a piece the amps take 4awg and my ground runs are about the same not even a 1 ft run. i tried getting bigger wire in cant doit..hahaha when i had the RUB2500.1d 0awg from that block and 0awg ground i held 14.4/14.9 all day full tilt even sometimes at a idle depending on the temp outside.. becuase batterys dont work good in cold as we know. ha im in ohio its cold as cold gets here atm..

and ya clipping not a issue i tune by ear and the lights on the amps and a DMM. so i have nice clean frequency's and sound being produced and power. would maybe a VMAX 600 or 800 help a little bit?

just tore it all apart today. in the cold..lmao and everything looks good i mean is the class d amp just that more efficient? to hold almost 15 volts on a load..??

lol b4 i got my alternator i had a 80amp..i use to do like 9.8volts for 6months lmao then decided ahh time for a bigger alternator lmao lowest ive seen is 11.9.. neve anything less

i mean if im on the throttle and slammin it ya i can do 13 volts and its like wow what a difference wasnt sure if im doing someting wrong or just need another battery or if that will even help...

sorry haah am i lacking something here to get closer to 14.4volts.. i know for fact if i hit 13.3v on a hit its like wow!

hey all, i run all 1/0 gauge to my chassis grounds powers and engine block. 4awg about 1.5ft long from my alternator to the battery and its a DC Power XP 270amp alternator on a Dyralast Gold 880CC and 1000 Cranking Amps 115 RC in my sentra. even DC power said the setup is perfect np. on 2 oldschool soundstream rubicon 1002s bridged at 1ohm per amp. i know these all amps pull a crap ton of power compared to a Class D.. best on this setup i can get on a load driving down the road is 12.4volts i tried a class D soundstream rub2500.1d and held 14.9/14.4 volts np all day even at a idle.. at .75ohms amp is crap compared to these so using my old amps again and they do a lot more power and sq. but only thing i dont have is an extra battery and im trying to stay away from this i have 4awg grounds for each one my amps. so i have good power there to the seat bolts and sanded down. any help be appreciated thanks. o also i have a oldschool rubicon 405 2ohms rears and 4ohms fronts amp pulls like 40amps i think..not sure and the maxi fuses in the sub amps are 80amps.. but know its way more then this.

My Soundstream SPLX124 has a FS(Hz)of 29hz. I know what it means but can someone give a good detailed explanation on it because i'm still kind of confused? Thanks!