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Everything posted by SojiaRaggs9000
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I have Two sets of 6.5" 2008 Rockford Fosegate P162s. They are pretty much brand new only like maybe 3-4 hours of play time on them. They come with 4 sets of tweeters per set.. Reason for replacing them is because they dont get loud as I want them to, Dont get be wrong they get plently loud just not for what I need. Anyways Im goin back to my kicker components. Looking for around $75 + shipping. per set - Like I said they're pretty much brand new only like maybe 3-4 hours of play time on them. This weill fit in your car with a mdf template. You can have the ones I made if u want them.
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PMd u all back. @ Anyony intrested in the fatmat... Each roll weights around 15 pound.... So.... depending on the box size shipping per roll is around $30ish. If you dont mind me taking it off the roll and folding it i could probably get shipping reduced to around 20ish. That being said if your intrested send me a pm or reply here w/e. But if your not then dont pm me askin for a shippin quote and then back off from the trade. (Not saying anything agaisnt anyone but I just dont want my pm box spammed needlessly.) Anyways let me know , thanks. -Kurk
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Update/Repost due to picture issues - Two 12" 2003 Solo Baric L7's - #1's spider is pretty much gone and needs replacing. But #2's is still pretty good but Id replace it as well. Both subs were tested and work fine. --Asking Prices: Offer + shipping. - Idk make me an offer... You could buy these and fix them and they'd be like brand new. Or you could trade them into kicker for a never set. Whatever floats your boat.... #1 #2 - 3 Rolls of FatMat Sound Deadener NIB - Rolls are 18in wide and 33.5ft long in other words 50sg ft. --Asking Prices: They sell for $79 per roll ... so how about... $50 per roll + shipping. -Kurk
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Are The 08 L7 Models Louder Then The 06 Models?
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to cichlidfort's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
ouch meh I haven't blown any subs but I've blown mids omg lol i nearly crapped myself when they started goin crazy lol. lol nah I just read your post wrong, your correct m8. -
Are The 08 L7 Models Louder Then The 06 Models?
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to cichlidfort's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Lol yeah 12s, main reason I decided to upgrade when the 08.s came out was cuz the spiders where ripped on the 05s. Im not polecat but i know for a fact that some of that is incorrect because 07 versions came in black as well. They looked like the 08's but with the old basket design. lol nvm ignore me I read your post wrong lol... -
Are The 08 L7 Models Louder Then The 06 Models?
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to cichlidfort's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Well I used to run these IIRC they're the 05 versions Now I have the 08 versions and there alot louder than I remember 05's being. -
I'm lookin for some names of some old school songs that bump. Songs like, Killer Whale by Andre Nickatina, Welcome to the Ghetto by Spice 1 or Slappin' in the Trunk by Mastah FAB ft. The Pack.
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Yeah that might be it as well... like I said the inside of car looked like a powdered donut... lol anyways I made a thread in the rides section if u care... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=32301
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Ermm about $2600 worth in body work. The Body shop is like 10 seconds from my house, I can walk out my front door and see the shop from my door step lol... Wanna see some pics?
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Yeah that's what I never got either... I've blows 2 sets now and the amp is no where near powerful enough to power the speakers in the first place. I dont have the gains on the amp turned up more than 1/4 either... there basically set around 1/8 to 1/4 to tell you the truth. Hmmm idk... bass wise... the CSII on the head unit is set on low... but I usally change it to low or off depending on what type of songs I'm listening to. Volume wise I usally play the system around 55 of 80... and the EQ is currently setup for rap. IDK I think it has to be my amp... that think is ancient... its the 03 or 04 version not sure.. Anyways I decided to try out the 2 sets RF P162S 6.5" Components for fronts/rears powered by a RF T400-4 and see how they fair. I got a deal on everything for $345 all brand new and comes with 3 year warranty.
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Yeah 6x9's are blown as well as one of the components... I think im just upgrade and switch brands... What do you thing about ... 2 sets of RF P162S 6.5" Components for fronts/rears powered by a RF T400-4? I'm looking at some right now and they come with a 3 year warrenty.. Also they're about 1/2 the price of the kickers and come with 4 tweeters per set. Interesting...... thoughts?
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Well first off let me say thanks for taking the time to read my thread I really need some advice... Anyways I'll tell you my current audio setup. I have an Eclipse CD5000 head unit, Kicker 07 SS56.2 SS-Series 5 ¼" components in the front, Kicker DS693 6x9 in the rear deck all hooked up to the older version of the Kicker KX350.4 4-Channel Amp. As for the bass I have two 2008 Kicker Solo Barics L7 12" in a 212SQSPB ProBox which has 2.75 cu. ft. per side and its all hooked up to a Rockford Fosgate T10001bd Mono Amp on a 1ohm load. Anyways I had my car in the body shop.. I went there a couple times and they was block sanding the car with the freakin' windows down and their was paint/bondo dust all over the inside of my car. The inside of my car looked like a powdered donut, no lie.. SO ... I finally get my car back and I'm driving around and notice a scratching sound coming from the front right tweeter. I go to turn up the volume and the speakers start freakin'' out. They play 1 tone very loudly and tuning the volume down doesn't help nor did cutting the power to the head unit. All of a sudden I smell a rubber smell so I hop out the car and pop the trunk and pull out the remote wire to the mids/highs amp. I then took the door panels off the fronts and I see that one of the crossovers had been broken, one of the coils is broken off the board and laying in the pocket of the door. Next I check the rears where I smelled rubber, one of the 6x9s surround seal vibrated loose .. wtf... anyways... Im pretty sure it wasn't a wiring issue because it check all the wiring and it looks good. I have 1 run of 2 guage from the battery leading back to the truck where plugs into a dist block and slits from 2 gauge to the subs amp and 4 gauge to the mids/highs amp. The ground wire is set up basicly the same way but the ground anchor is mounted in the trunk. It all worked fine before I had it at the body shop so I'm kinda at a loss. Did they crap out cuz of the broken crossover? Am I powering them too much or not enough?? IDK but they need replacing and this will make my 3 set of SS56.2 SS-Series if I decide to get another set.. and them things ain't cheap... Although price really isn't a factor. Maybe I should upgrade to something new? IDK , I know about subs but when it comes to mids and highs idk... Plus it doesn't help that I'm a bit noob at audio.. Anyways.. What do you guys think? Any suggestions? Should I upgrade, if so to what? Thanks in advance, Kurk
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New Box Design Sugestions.
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to SojiaRaggs9000's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Talked to foreverbumpin and looks like t-line sint gunna work because i need 24" in height and that aint gunna happen lol.... anyways... Im not 100% sure who to put the port... should i do dual chambers or single? 1 port or 2? -
New Box Design Sugestions.
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to SojiaRaggs9000's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Here is a few specs I came across I hope I have found the right specs ect lol... Sd 0.0645 sq m (11.19 = 11.19/2 = 5.595 x 5.595 3.14 = 98.295in.^2 = 0.0645 sq meters) Fs: 31.7 Qms: 10.857 Qes: 0.709 Qts: 0.666 So ...... 1130 / 31 = 36.45 = 1 26.90 / 4 = 9.11 = 1/4 If I did my math right I think I can actually make a t-line if I understand right. In the following pic I did L=33.5in x W=38.5in. Port W=7.45in with a port length of 10.51ft. Now I know Its not correct measurement wise but... wouldn't something close to this work of a t-line if I can get the measurements straight??? -
New Box Design Sugestions.
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to SojiaRaggs9000's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
yeah L: 33” W: 20.5” H: 12” is my current box size... Due to the wheel max would be L: 39” W: 34” H: 15" -
New Box Design Sugestions.
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to SojiaRaggs9000's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
yeah for sure with no problem... I was looking at the t-line thread... and it look very intrestin not sure if it will work well with my kickers tho... or if I have enough space lol... -
New Box Design Sugestions.
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to SojiaRaggs9000's topic in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Sounds good, thanks for the fast reply as well. -
Ok well I have two 12" 06 S12l7 (2006 gray Solo Baric L7 versions) and Ill soon be updating they to the newer 07 or 08 black versions. Any way, In your honest opinions what Is the best type of box? Sealed or Ported? Single chamber or Dual chamber? Imo I prefer the ported, seems to have deeper tones than a sealed... ofcourse I listen to mostly chopped n screwed stuff but rap is what I listen to. I've built a box before outta 1" MDF but it was WAY to heavy so I ended up tossing it lol. So I kinda know what I'm getting my self into anyway...... The box will be in my trunk. How should I have them firing? Straight up, towards the cab, towards the taillights, or angled up facing the taillights??my current box measures L: 33” W: 20.5” H: 12” TO give you an idea oh how much space I haver here is some pic of my trunk. Id really like to hear your honest opinions on what type of box will maximize my subs performance. -Kurk
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2007 Camry Big 3
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to ARMYSGT_D's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Well thats true but if you have stock connectors then your gunna need some kinda after market terminals ect... then again you should already have them with a system. Anyways you have to disconnect screws ect to attach terminal rings for the added wire so way not go all out? -
2007 Camry Big 3
SojiaRaggs9000 replied to ARMYSGT_D's topic in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
These are the 3 wires you need to replace. * Alternator positive to battery positive with or without optional fuse * Battery negative to chassis * Chassis to engine block Ideally anything above stock wire size is an improvement... but remember bigger is better. I highly recommend 1/0 gauge wire... or at least a 4 gauge wire.. AH yes and your setup is like mine... Your alternator wire runs from the positive battery terminal to the "mega fuse". From the "mega fuse" to the alternator. Mega fuse is located on the fuse box, probably hidden/protected by a piece of plastic.
