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RCP Audio

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Posts posted by RCP Audio

  1. dc to ac home speakers in car???

    in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring

    Posted

    That'd be a very interesting concept. I've seena couple videos on Youtube where people've taken their plate amp'[ed home theater sugbs and put them on ower inverters and placed them in the back of their SUV's or cars. I've also seen people do this with window AC units. I have no doubt it'd be possible, but as far as worthy, I'm not sure. It'd definitely turn some heads though. I've even wondered what would happen if you took, say, one of those 2 18 JBL sub cabinets, that you see at concert venues, and threw it in the back of a vehicle, on a good power amp.

    This has my attention for the tech sake. Keep us updated on what you decide.

    I have my own PA gear and I tried putting an active JBL 18 in the boot of my dads explorer (running it off ac from the house ahha) and it sounded like rubbish. It couldnt go low at all and just seemed to make a muddled mess more then being able to hear each kick drum beat when listening to unedited music. But with something a little less rugged and more refined i think it could sound very nice.

    keep us posted

  4. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by pinkoP35

    May I ask why you're tuning so low in a 4th order? Seems bandwidth will be well into low 20's if not high teens. I'd tune it around 43-45. Just my .02

    wow i didnt know it spread quite that much. okay man ill have a look at the drawings and see what i can change

    edit: i looked at the drawings and the easiest solution is to move the wall dividing the two chambers along so i get more sealed side which is a bit low aswel and will raise the tuning. Will it work? or should i redo the port?

    What's the demensions you have to work with? And what sub? Ideally I would just make the box smaller or increase the width of the port. If you tell me what demensions you have to work with and the sub I can whip something up for ya

    the max length can only be about 1m, that box i designed was 1.016m so that i would be able to squeeze it inbetween the trim pannels to hold it in place. width and heignt arent as important but as small as possible would be best as she uses the boot alot and regularly fills it to the max so i dont wanna use too much space but still get some output. not sure if this is the right type of box but i know they are effecient and the sub is hidden so she cant put a hole through it etc. the sub and amp are in my link in the first post, im on mobile now so cant repost it easily. cheers man, let me know if you need to know anythinig else.

    edit: this is now the sub im going to use. that package was crap as the sub couldnt be wired to use the most of the small amp so going for this sub and will get an amp rated at 400 so more realisticly 300ish

  5. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by pinkoP35

    May I ask why you're tuning so low in a 4th order? Seems bandwidth will be well into low 20's if not high teens. I'd tune it around 43-45. Just my .02

    wow i didnt know it spread quite that much. okay man ill have a look at the drawings and see what i can change

    edit: i looked at the drawings and the easiest solution is to move the wall dividing the two chambers along so i get more sealed side which is a bit low aswel and will raise the tuning. Will it work? or should i redo the port?

  6. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Wait.. You're the same guy that told dude to cut his port length in half if he wants two ports. Makes sense now.

    me? when did i say this? if i did ive learnt since then coz i know that wont work...

    I think he was talking about the other guy.. lol

    wow i was gonna kick myself if thats what people thought of me already haha

  9. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    You may want to add braces between the ports. Also that speaker cut out is too small.

    ..What..? :nea:

    Google sketch is a good measurement tool...it's very accurate, That sub cut out is way to small....unless that was a bracket.........and I've seen ports like that...with no small braces in between them...blow right off from the pressure hitting against them.

    THIS noob is retarded.

    Box design looks solid. build it, picture it, post it, enjoy!

    Cheers Man. I've never done anything but a slot port so this should be interesting for me haha

  10. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    You may want to add braces between the ports. Also that speaker cut out is too small.

    ..What..? :nea:

    Google sketch is a good measurement tool...it's very accurate, That sub cut out is way to small....unless that was a bracket.........and I've seen ports like that...with no small braces in between them...blow right off from the pressure hitting against them.

    The cut out for the sub is the size that they have posted on their website. I'll measure it and post a pic when I get home I'm on mobile now. Only thing I might have to change is the size of the box coz idk if the outer bit of the sub ring will fin inside

  11. Girlfriends box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Hey Guys, I quickly designed this box for my girlfriend. Its her birthday in 3 days and decided she wants some beat in her car. She drives a little hatch back where the boot is 1m wide.

    She doesnt wanna loose much space in the boot so I came up with this. If I majorly stuffed it up somewhere let me know. the box has to pretty much be this size for her car has lots of angles in the boot and this is as high and wide as i can go.

    the sub and amp are going to be this My link I know its not overly impressive but it will do her just fine, she thinks my car is too loud (2 x 12's on 900rms) so the money im not spending on her gear im putting towards the holiday she doesnt know were going on yet. Anyway, on to pics, any feedback is good including 'its a POS so start again'. the sub will be facing into the sealed side (sub displacement effects ported side)

    sbox.th.jpg

    sbox.th.jpg

    sboxf.th.jpg

    sboxx.th.jpg

    to get the port tuned low as possible I had to make it thinner then the box. so to do this im building the port in-between two pieces of 16mm mdf and will put the whole thing inside the box to make the port smaller if that makes sense. I may add another piece on both sides to tune it lower im not sure yet

    sbox.th.jpg

    I will upload build pics of it aswell as my new box for my car when i make that too

  13. sub box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted

    Okay so ive changed my mind after playing around in the car with the trim panels. I took one pannel off that now looks like it was installed by the previous owner, I can now go 500mm deep and 950mm wide. Thats a lot more space compared to my last design. what would be better do you think? a slot port down one side? and the two subs put really close together on the other. or the same design as last time, only bigger and lower tuned with more port?

    cheers,

  16. sub box design

    in Subwoofers / Enclosures

    Posted · Edited by pinkoP35

    Hey guys, the current box is total crap, it has something like 3"per foot on port area so as you could imagine, doesn't do anything for the subs.

    This is going in my 1991 Mazda 323 hatch so the boot area s tiny and I don't want to take out any trim panels unless I have to. this is what I have come up with for a new box, the dimensions are the max I can do. I know there is still a shortage of port area but I don't want the tuning to rise to much more than this. the subs are two pioneer ts-w308d4 12"subs. running at 2 ohms off a soundstream stl-1200d.

    is there anything i can do to this box design to make it preform better?

    this is the first time ive uploaded pics so i hope they work. I will embarrass myself and upload a pic of my current box if anyone would like to see it <_<

    subboxcalc.th.jpg

    subboxoutsidedimensions.th.jpg

    subboxportdimensions.th.jpg

    edit: links didnt work

  24. Im a bit stuck.. help?

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    Hey, I recently brought a couple of 2 channel amps for my mid/highs and going to install a half decent front stage. I had my mids/tweeters wired to the HU so I asked my mate to cut them off and unroute the wired from the dash etc so I could run new cables to the boot. he decided to cut the ENTIRE BLOOODY stock wire harness!!

    I'm rather pissed but hey I cant go back in time now. So I just finished soldering it all back together, everything works except for the dash/panel lights(fan speed/temp selector etc) aren't working any more. I don't have any loose cables in the space where they were cut yet its not working, I've checked the fuse and its allgoods.

    Any ideas what it could be?! I'm still confused why the dash lights are going through the stereo wiring harness but who cares now. Any help would be appreciated. I will charge my camera up overnight and take pics tomorrow to help if you want them.

    Cheers

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