DannyV18
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Posts posted by DannyV18
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I'm with PurfectlyInsane on this one.
The only true way to test the theory that regular is louder than inverted is to build two boxes with the same net volume, with one inverted and one mounted normal. Plus, it has to be tested with multiple subs. The subs also have to be broken in so the T/S parameters are close to the same. They have to be powered the same, aligned the same, EVERY variable besides the driver mounting has to be held constant for this to be a valid test.
Not gonna lie, i do see ignorance on this site from time to time. Just saying...
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SQ will go down with a ported box. output should double (3db).
SQ goes down huh? Then why do many SQ champions have ported enclosures? Explain please.
And you cannot just expect output to double. Way too many factors to throw out a specific number.
1st comment, because they KNOW what they are doing. this guy is obviously new so a general statement is completely accurate for him.
the 2nd comment, duh... but again, its a general reference and its accurate for this guy.
we dont need to get super complicated and confuse people who are asking their 1st questions about a concept.
Yeah man, it is true for most of the car audio population out there.
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Sealed provides a predictable frequency response, and you don't have to be too accurate with enclosure volume. If vented enclosures are done correctly (proper calculation of size and port tuning) you can expect a 3-6db gain, since you're using the rear waves from the sub, too; much more low end extension, and better transient response especially at higher volumes when compared to acoustic suspension type enclosures.
The breadth of availability of "one size fits all" vented enclosures out there give vented a bad name. If an enclosure is not of the correct volume for the T/S of the sub, you will get "boomy" sound, and it usually just sounds too bad to listen to. There are no "free lunches" with sub boxes, as there are always trade-offs, typically bandwidth for gain
Acoustic suspension/sealed/4th order band pass = easy, safe enclosure to build, can vary volume of enclosure quite a bit before performance is reduced, typically higher low end roll off. best with subs EBP of 50 or lower
Ported/vented/6th order band pass = need proper tuning for best performance, but yield more performance than acoustic suspension when tuned properly, need a infrasonic filter, volume of enclosure and port area/length need to be pretty accurate. Best with subs with EBP of 100 or higher.
IMO power handling is a non issue. You will get much better performance and longevity by setting your gains properly. You can be happy with 150% RMS power to your subs with proper gains, and conversely blow your subs with 75% RMS fairly easily, by sending clipped, square waves to the coils.
In Other Words, if you build it right, a vented box is louder and clearer than sealed. If you build it wrong, then it will sound like shit.
Thank you.
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SQ will go down with a ported box. output should double (3db).
SQ goes down huh? Then why do many SQ champions have ported enclosures? Explain please.
And you cannot just expect output to double. Way too many factors to throw out a specific number.
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The sound quality part is very subjective, but as long as it's built decently and it's not a fart box (i.e. 45 hz tuning) it will sound decent. Ported will make it much louder than sealed, but they also require much more room.
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Did you try an amp swap to make sure it actually was the amp?
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btw, with your 10" in that enclosure you have now you're getting about -2.7db across the board, thats a super inefficient box for that sub, but thats not a very good sub so im not suprised, but suprisingly, the 12" version of that is a much better sub, you dont see that often.... anyways, we really have to wait for pics and junk like that before we can really tell you what you can and cant do man.
Never heard this before! Need more info.
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Two 15's = cone area advantage + more power
Are they the same sub?
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One amp would be simpler from my experience. Every mono amp that I've worked with has two sets of speaker terminals.
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AQ 2200 or Sundown 2500D.
Didn't see that you stated two amps. A couple of AQ 1200's strapped if that's the case. Why two amps?
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The N2 would probably do better for daily than the N3. The N3 has too much motor force.
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Maybe your RCAs and power wire are too close and causing the noise
'Tis a myth.
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I just drive around listening to a straight 33 hz tone at full volume.
I prefer 25 hz, with the SSF off at full volume!
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How do u figure out the hz tuning
Box calculator or math (if you know the equations).
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You will want 3X the port area than what your plans are.
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Knukonceptz, stinger, kicker, tsunami, welding cable. Just as long as it's not CCA...
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I'm not familiar with bandpasses. I do know that the ratio of sealed volume to port volume is VERY important, and you have to wire the woofers on one side differently. Some one with more knowledge can shed some light.
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Holy shit that's crazy! LMFAO at the dog!!!
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Pretty sure this would be a 4th order BP. See the caddy build by meade. I'm not sure how it would work in a trunk though, unless you had a big ass trunk.
Think i could do it with some comp tens in a small trunk to try it out?
Yes, but it's more complicated than just facing two sealed boxes towards eachother.
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Pretty sure this would be a 4th order BP. See the caddy build by meade. I'm not sure how it would work in a trunk though, unless you had a big ass trunk.
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If it's a slot port then the best thing you can do is double up the wood on the outside. Won't change tuning or internal volume, just gross volume.
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Yes it would change tuning. Why put a piece of wood down the middle of the port?
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A wire sized hole? I'm pretty sure your supposed to use a ring terminal and bolt it onto a spot on the chassis thats been sanded clean like said before
I think he meant drill a whole through the body so you can get to the chassis. Then bolt it down to the chassis.
Yes. Frame of the car and chassis are the same thing, right?
Yes sir
Alright i thought i was missing something because i did say frame.
OP, just a neg run from the front batt to back batt is fine. Just make sure the front one is grounded well.
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A wire sized hole? I'm pretty sure your supposed to use a ring terminal and bolt it onto a spot on the chassis thats been sanded clean like said before
I think he meant drill a whole through the body so you can get to the chassis. Then bolt it down to the chassis.
Yes. Frame of the car and chassis are the same thing, right?
Voltage Dropping
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
If your voltage is at 12.8 at idle then you need a new alternator.