kryptonitewhite

exactly

I usually cut 2 1" wide boards and mount the ends of the amp on them so I have it spaced for cooling... but even then screws were coming loose The enclosure takes up most of the hatch, a little room... barely... on all sides.... no where to secure it other than the box! I'm using different kinds of security screws so a theif would have to have several different security bits to get the sub... Id like to do the same with the amp

I agree... though I might get over 130's LOL I want an anti-theaft way to mount it with security screws, but other than the box, I've got nowhere to bolt it down

me too and friends, and I had 3 audiobahn amps screws come undone and a few lanzar amps too. usually just the outside cases, but once a screw dropped inside and shorted the amp

ihatesellingtheseitsucks

bad idea?

kick ass!

I kind of browsed around cuz I thought I saw a thread once of bench tested amps... I can't find it again

ah compression

i guess my main concern is the lanzar want't nearly enough power for my IB3 18. I am hoping the BXI has just enough more... basically I had it figured out on the volume knob where I could listen for a long period of time VS where if I listened too long the sub would get a bit warm/stinky. At that same point I noticed going any louder wouldn't actually make the sub much louder... so i think it was clipping... and if I pushed it just a bit more again I could hear a little clipping. So guessing the sub wanted 200-400 more watts, if this hifon makes 200-400 more watts at 2 ohms as well, it should be perfect.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy...-effects-2.html http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....4047&page=3

well I may want an audiopipe, so would u b interested in my BXI2608D that I havent even received yet? BNIB from the ebay company everyone recommends.... it should be here in a day or 2

see now this really pisses me of, I've been amp shoping here and on ROE for at least a month or a few... and I kept getting told the hifonics do rated. I kept asking "so if the hifon does 2600 for $350 and the kicker does more than rated, but for double that, why arent the prices closer? even if a kicker does 3000... why is it double a hifon?" and everyone said hifon does rated now that I bought one, on ROE yesterday someone said the same shit... that they DONT! Anyway, so the reason I switched from the AP30001D to the BXI2608D was because discrepencies in the IB3 22". On HTS it is said to have the same VD as 2 18's. So I wanted the AP for a 2ohm load. But later in the IB322 thread on HTS, it seems to be said to only have an Xmax of 30mm... same as the 18's... so VD will NOT be the same as 2 18's, as Sd of a 22 is not double the Sd of an 18... so Xmax must be higher. Then I am also told the IB3 motor wasn't strong enough, so they were bumping up to a Q motor... well that's still not over 30mm so i decided on a pair of IB3 18's, 1 ohm load. So at the last minute my dumbass went with the BXI instead... now everone is saying it doesnt do rated, and, i got more IB3 22 info... fuck anyone have a perfectly good AP30001D willing to swap for a BNIB never used BXI? I haven't even received it yet... in the next 2 days. and no, not a pair of 1500's.. too much wire mess

I understand what you're getting at, but when they are testing them and rating them, I hope it is with a constant supply voltage

dude, you are the reason I ORDERED an AP30001D... I actually ordered one from 97 maxima after you gave me lots of great info and pics... thanks BTW... however, since I had to wait a while for shipping, I decided not to purchase just yet in case something came up... and something did... so I had to go with a 1 ohm amp instead. In the pic, it looks like 2 ohm bridged/1 ohm stereo 3000 watts, but at 4 ohm bridged/2ohm stereo 1800 watts... so not quite 1/2, which makes more sense so why the more reputable/expensive kicker doing the 1/2 and double?

I'll be using a DMM and setting it to 1500 watts or less with a sine wave... this brings me to something I've wanted to post about for a while now... when I have my music "cranked up" and then I go to 0dB test tones, obviousely I have to turn the deck WAY down. So when I am setting my gains with the deck way up and a test tone, I can see the benifit that I will actually be using much less power, but, doesn't that waste a lot of the amp? If I have my volume 80% with a sine wave to set it, when I play music, I will have consderably less overall power in general

shit my bad thats what i ment to say 3000@2 and 1500@4

what i'm really wondering is how much better my bxi2608d will be rated 1500 @ 2 than my opti2000d rated 1100 @ 2 on my ib3 18 single 2 ohm. the opti had a real tough time at 2 ohms and clipped real bad

ah, efficiency which leads me back to why i wanted a kx2500.1 and why they are so damn expencive and i cant afford one thanks guys

why do some amps get there rated power cut in half every time you double the resistance, but others not as much? bxi2608d 2600@1, 1500@2 opti2000 [email protected], [email protected],1100@2,750@4 kx/zx2500.1 2500@2,1250@4,625@8 ap30001 3000@1, 1500@2 so on and so on

email sent kits are cool, no heavy shipping

shipping for the 1st 2 pair: $14.02 and $13.86 $40 - $14 = $26 for a pair of barely used 3 ways.

sure would, I waited for a MO for the Lanzar.

bump

$40 shipped