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ISO

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  • Birthday 09/09/1980

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    Lancaster,Ohio
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    What do you think?

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  1. Holy fuck this place is actually dead. To all the enthusiasts out, it'll be alright
  2. So has this forum gone dead???? Is there any one here that cares about sound quality at all??? Does anyone here give a flying fuck about listening to music??? I have a controlled environment. Kicker ZR1000 verse Rockford Fosgate Power 1100a2 aka 500.2 RF 1100 fails miserably So you have 2 amps equally rated. Both sound amazing except the RF1100a2 gets hot and has absolutely no ass on the bottom end. The test say that the RF 1100a2 produces more power. When you run bookshelves for testing purposes and you can feel the bass and clarity vs not feeling anything from a more powerful amplifier. Kicker old school is incredibly much better. What really blew my mind was the Kicker ran cooler than the Fosgate. In theory the Kicker should have ran a lot hotter
  3. If it helps, I want to know why I prefer my ZR1000 over my $2000 Harman Kardon HK 990 intergrated amp on a set of bookshelf speakers. I only hooked up the ZR1000 for testing purposes and surprisingly was blown away by it's impact and sound quality. I never dreamed that 2 five and a quarter woofer's could be so powerful when I supposedly was running them with more power than the ZR1000 had to offer. ELAC UNIFI BOOKSHELF originals. 1.0
  4. I want to know what the Kicker ZR1000 you tested can do at 4 ohm into 2 channels. 8 ohm bridged divided by 2 should be 4 ohm stereo. After all it is a sound quality amp. By today's standard wouldn't it make more sense to use that amp for a component set and a class D amp to run subs??? If you are going to be in a hostile (car audio) environment then you need extreme amounts of power to enjoy your music at a moderate or normal listening level without distortion and background noise. I would like to know what the ZR1000 can do at 4 ohm stereo. PLEASE
  5. Would you be willing to test a Kicker ZR360. I believe it was the most aggressive out of the 5 ZR amps. I would like someone to prove it. I believe 2 of those would destroy a ZR1000. The ZR360 was the last amp before they added the current limiter. It's power increased at 2ohm unlike the 600 and 1000 that just stabilized themselves. I had used it at 1 ohm bridged a couple of time's to get numbers, it is very unstable though. Please test this amp, thank you
  6. Would you be willing to test a Kicker ZR360. I believe it was the most aggressive out of the 5 ZR amps. I would like someone to prove it. I believe 2 of those would destroy a ZR1000. The ZR360 was the last amp before they added the current limiter. It's power increased at 2ohm unlike the 600 and 1000 that just stabilized themselves. I had used it at 1 ohm bridged a couple of time's to get numbers, it is very unstable though. Please test this amp, thank you
  7. I have never seen a review for a kicker ZR360 done on a dyno. Out of the five ZR amps in my opinion this one was most aggressive. It was the last amp before they started putting a current limiter and their lineup. Both the ZR600 and the ZR1000 had current limiters when you ran them into 2ohm. I was hoping that maybe you might be willing to test a Kicker ZR360. If you cannot find one I might have one in storage that still works but it will take me awhile to get to it. I have successfully ran this amp at one ohm into music using a ported box. I figure 500 watts at 4ohm bridged 700 at 2 ohm bridged. Is there any chance you would be willing to test this amp out? If so I will try to get into my storage building Sunday if you don't have access to one. Mods I'm sorry I put this in the wrong place may I ask you to place it where it's supposed to be. This is a request more than anything and I haven't used this form in years for the most part. Sorry for placing it in the wrong area Thank you
  8. 15 was only in a car audio application. I was thourly impressed with it's SQ. Never home audio
  9. So I have a set of bookshelf speakers powered by a $2500 integrated amp. ([email protected]) if you base your opinion on that don't bother responding. A few years back I got my hands on a NIB RF HX2 12. (Still never used) I fell in love with the 15 I have but it was overkill. (Ported). So I want to build a ported subwoofer box to reinforce my bookshelf speakers. A Crown amp will handle the subwoofer. My newest purchase is a DC Audio M3 8 inch. Would you choose an amazing sounding 12 or a long throw 8 for sound quality
  10. LOL I remember when I was in middle school and I was taking a piss in the toilet stall and some dick head went over to the stall next to me and for some fucked up reason he still was able to piss on my shoe (on purpose). Not at the urinal but in the sectioned off toilet stalls. HA HA HA We ended up becoming friends until I moved away.
  11. Hey everyone just remember! Its better to be pissed off instead of being pissed on. LOL
  12. LOL ya that is pretty much the comparison I was thinking about when comparing a Class AB amp to a Class D amp. Somewhere between 40~60% efficient on the Class AB too 70~8 0% efficient for the Class D. HA HA HA I'm already hearing is alt whining from here
  13. If it is a T15002 it does a little over 2000 watts at 2 ohm bridged and being a Class AB amp has the potential of destroying your electrical awfully quick if you are not prepared to run it. It you have what it takes to run it then it should be a truly bad ass amp. Rated Power 250x2 @ 4 ohm 500x2 @ 2 ohm 750x2 @ 1 ohm 1500x1 @ 2 ohms bridged Actual Power 457x2 @ 4 ohm 869x2 @ 2 ohm 1288x2 @ 1 ohm 2576x 1 @ 2 ohms bridged
  14. So you are already familiar with it and you still don't feel that that is too much power to work with?
  15. The way wattage and frequency works out I have a feeling that that amp is still going to shoot your cones off of your baskets. Man be proud of those amps because not only are they bad ass they are me dream set of amplifiers if money was not an object. I hope it works out the way you want it man.
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