Kdub26

yeah it MIGHT be DD-1 first. so i can set both my amps, and see where my h/u distorts. even though its 2x more than an eq, but at least ill know where my max is on everything and i at least wont burn up anything

i might do it like that. my h/u has output for a highs amp. which, i already have a pair of sting rca's hooked up to that and ran to the back where my batt is. or, ill just get a DD-1. ive been wanting one ever since it came out

lmao i did the same thing. i kept it open, and i would check it every day and see what the deal of the day was. but yeah, def gonna get the clarion eq. too bad its not red-ish to match everything in my car. but, thanks to everyone with trying to figure out what this thing is. obviously more input is never refused. at least i have a direction now

audiosavings is like a drug addiction for me lol. an EQ was def on my list of things to buy. that'll probably be my next investment.

idk how their amps are, but from what ive heard, their subs are junk. i tested out this amp with a spare batt i had, and i know it works, i was just wondering how well it would work. i was hoping that i got an older model of a good name brand. but seeing as though the logo couldnt even stay on, hopefully thats not a sign of whats gonna happen with it down the road

yeah i dont have any specific freq that i want. just as long as its clean and clear. ill probably use this amp for now, then get an actual 4-ch that i know the power rating for. this'll be my first setup for having an amp for my mids and highs, and this amp was practically given to me, so im just trying to utalize it.

seems to be the easy math way to figure it out. just goes to show that im still learning. probably guessing that they advertised this to be a 300+/- watt amp

he spot for the logo, seems to be rectangular in shape. looks like it was set in place with some kind of adhesive. the warranty seal has a few chinese/japonese letters. has a barcode # of X190098070200268. top of the barcode has PK062#0/212 (# being that i cant read that number)

yeah i figured i would probably have them underpowered with this amp. ima be easy on them until i feel as though i get the right freq that i want

yeah i already switched it over to HPF. guess ill see when i get my mids and tweets in.

yeah i was guessing that too. i just dont wanna set the gains too high. guess ill just have to set it by ear

ugh. not what i wanted to hear lol

no help?

a coworker gave me this amp. it doesnt have a brand name or logo anywhere on the amp. it has a spot for one, but obviously is gone now. i ordered two Selenium 6w4p's and two selenium ST200 super tweeters, and wanted to run them off of this amp. it looks like maybe in the 200-500 watt range, due to its size. here are the observations of it: - 2 channel -power/ground appear to be 4g inputs -speaker inputs appear to be 8g -(1) 20A fuse -high input plug -dials: gain, bass boost, LPF, HPF, crossover switch -low input & low output rca's. also, any suggestions on the approx freq range to set it at when i get the amp in. or even if its worth it to use the amp. the guts the dials size comparison thanks for the help

Cap was removed at the time of trunk battery install. Its not in my car anymore

Cap is GONE. at the time of battery install, the cap was removed. It is not in my car, as noted in my signature. This was not about the cap.

here a couple pics. probably wont help with fixing the problem cap is not in use. it has already been taken out

all hot wires do have a fuse. although, i think my easiest solution would to be to run a new remote, since i spliced it, and also just used electrical tape. i have noticed first hand of crimps and connections coming loose. so, when this rain decides to subside, im gonna tighten and double check EVRYTHING

that was my ideal solution was to run a whole new remote wire. i did a manual test with a 4ft section of wire, and manually turned on my amp, and it worked. so i THINK it may be the remote. i had to splice in two sections of wire, because it wasnt long enough. it may be 22g, so ill bump it up to 18, and hopefully that will help. but i gave the whole length of remote a good tug, and it seems to still be nice and tight. ill see if i have any pics i can post

im only asking this question on here because of lack of weather to allow me to get my hands dirty and find out what could be the problem. basically: if i hit a weird bump in the road, sometimes my amp will just shut off or makes a "pop" sound (which doesnt sound good at all) or just wont come on when i turn my radio on. things i have checked: second battery is still charging inline fuse is still good amp fuses are not blown grounds are still secure remote wire is still attached from the back of the radio sometimes when the subs hit a good bass note, it causes the amp to pop off. and it just doesnt it when im playing bass or not. almost sounds like MAYBE something on the inside of the amp that needs to be fixed. anything to point me in the right direction would be helpful.

oh wow. i didnt know the previous idea was with pyramid audio....hmmm well thats quite a big jump from that, to a $8K+ system

Hope you have the electrical to back that up. I didn't see your previous thread, so I don't know if you had your electrical planned out.

Sounds like a good deal

im doing my big 3 with cadence 0g from audiosavings. not sure how the quality stacks up to others, but i figured i would add more fuel to the fire here

Sounds ok to me. Idk the power ratings on those components. Post pics when you get them in!