Kdub26

H3

thats the kind of answer i was looking for lol. thanks No problem man.When the cone area is that close you really have to consider what will work best for what your trying to do. im in that stage where im not even sure what will work for me haha. i was trying to dust off my math skills so that i didnt have to ask on here, but it wasnt working out. and, i knew i would get an answer on here faster than i would looking it up myself.

yeah thats what its lookin like. with that close of cone area, i probably wont even be able to tell the difference. but, the brands im looking at, its also coming down to power/motor force. because i can get 2x the power for 4 10's than i can with the 2 12's. and even as i type, im looking at doing 4 12's LOL. but, at least this helps with my knowledge that the 4 10" subs are very close in cone area to the 2 12" square ones

ive never used square subs before, so i figured i would add it to my indecisive decision on what subs to pick.

thats the kind of answer i was looking for lol. thanks

im going to try my best to not make this a VS thread. i am trying to figure out what subs to purchase next. i know that a square sub has more surface area that a round sub at the same size. my delima is if i should go with 4 10" round subs or 2 12" square subs. my question is that does the 2 12" square subs have more surface area that the 4 10" subs? im not asking anyone to pick which one they would prefer. or if someone can give me a basic math rundown. just trying to come up with a plan. like i said, im trying to not make this a vs thread, not asking anyone to pick, no brand names, just a yes or no if the 2 12" subs have more surface area than the 4 10" subs thanks

its not hard to get to, its just that i cant clip it onto the amp as easily as steve shows in his vids. ive tried serveal ways to try and clip it on, its just that the plastic that goes around the neg input covers almost the whole terminal (not a bad thing) but i just cant clip it onto the actual amp.

help me out!!!

i know that the owners booklet says to ground the dd1 and cc1 to the amp ground. and ive always seen the ground lead attached to the amp. well, the way both of my amps are for the inputs its VERY hard to get the ground lead attached to the amp. will it work if i take the ground lead and attach it to where i grounded the amps to the frame?

getting my combo pack on friday and ironically, thats my day off this week. you know what that means!

here's a slap together of my car. (ill edit if i forget anything) 1992 Camry with the motor from my 95, aprrox 166K miles on the motor originally "tan" now painted "championship white" from duplicolor ALL bulbs are led's 8K HIDs with multicolor angeleyes current system: 2 Audiobahn 15's in a sealed box 1800 watt Power Acoustik amp 2 Selenium 6w4p's 2 Selenium ST200's "mystery amp" running the seleniums Cadence 0g wiring, Cadence 4g wiring, Kicker 4g wiring 1 pair of Kicker RCA's, and 2 pairs of Stinger 2000 series RCA's SecondSkin Damplifer in key areas of the trunk and doors time for the pics: the seleniums trunk battery with Knu battery terminals (negative isnt on yet, and yes, i know to not use a non sealed battery, im replacing it) accessories distro block the noise makers moar wires sub amp (no, the cap is not in use, i was just lazy and didnt take it out when i took the pic) selenium amp wrapping some red fleece

ehh. just lookin for the easy way out. i know i probably should. just want to see if i absolutly had to.

will i have to bleed the brake lines if im just replacing the rotors and pads? ive only seen bleeding brake lines if you replace the caliper. im thinking all i have to do is unmount the caliper, get the rotor off, replace the pads and rotor, then put it back together. just seeing if this was true

"The only thing a second battery will help you with is "parking lot" listening time. Basically it will provide you the additional capacity to run your stereo longer without starting the vehicle. After the vehicle is started the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked alternator." That's not what he stated.. he's saying the only thing they are good for car audio wise is when the car is off.. thats what the external link said. of course itll be easier to play your system with your car off when you have extra batteries, but, its not charging when the car is off, risking dipping to low voltage numbers and burning stuff up I'm aware I just wanted to make sure that they DID help when the car was running as well.. not just when it was off. Now I know they do help.. the information in the link just confused me.. wanted to make sure they helped. Thanks for the info guys not a problem. its good that you're researching and asking qustions before you mess up something. i do it all the time if im not 100% sure about something, i research, ask questions, then tackle whatever my project is

it all depends on your power. if you have a little 250 watt amp, youre not gonna have any issues. but when you get into big boy numbers, you'll need extra batteries, H/O alt, and big wires. you gotta know what you're doing first, which is good that you're researching and learning

"The only thing a second battery will help you with is "parking lot" listening time. Basically it will provide you the additional capacity to run your stereo longer without starting the vehicle. After the vehicle is started the second battery becomes another load on an already overworked alternator." That's not what he stated.. he's saying the only thing they are good for car audio wise is when the car is off.. thats what the external link said. of course itll be easier to play your system with your car off when you have extra batteries, but, its not charging when the car is off, risking dipping to low voltage numbers and burning stuff up

the whole point of getting extra batteries is to be able to have juice to run your stereo. of course its not to help start your car. when you add extra batts, ALWAYS have your car running so it can charge your extra batts.

good question. im interested in the answer. ive never used a line converter, so ive never ran into this.

hmmm. 2 15's in a boat?!?! i havent seen a setup like that. ive seen smaller setups than that though. but, i have no clue what you should tune to. i wanna see pics lol

interesting. im guessing it wouldnt harm the amp? if i get that, then ill just use my left over 0g and get that reducer. then just get a new fuse holder. would most def be a lot cheaper than getting 2g and new fuse holder.

i found some 2g welding cable for $1.89/ft. reasonable price?

[quote name= Gem132' timestamp='1330420184' post='1909199] Mechman sells 2g wire iirc, check there website out thanks ill look

thanks. ill give that a shot

this MB quart amp im looking into says the recommended power/ground cable is 2g. now, ive bounced around to darvex, audiosavings, XS power, Knu, and have come up empty handed (unless im blind). im just looking for a section of wire, not like an amp kit, and only about up to 8-10ft. the only one i have found so far is this brand: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38602_Absolute-PROP2G20RD-Red.html problem is that is says it does NOT comply with awg standards. and i dont wanna buy something that is way off awg standards. unless someone has used this brand before and its pretty close. just looking to make sure i feed this amp what it needs. any help in pointing me in the right direction with a company that sells 2g at a reasonable price. but, seems as though its umcommon unless im just looking in the wrong areas.