-
Posts
273 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Kdub26
-
-
i see the issue starting with the holder. there's no place for you to screw down the wires. meaning that you'll have to get ring terminals as well just to terminate the wire to the holder. if you're getting them because of price/budget, i understand. but, by the time you get all of the extra stuff just to use a $2 fuse holder, you could have spent that same money for a slightly better quality one. check audiosavings, they have fairly priced stuff, and also free shipping.
-
you get what you pay for. i would honestly trust walmart brand before i bought that
-
i nearly jizzed all over the place when i saw the commercial. i love the new look of it
-
dang that does suck. well, you tried everything you could do. me and my coworker ordered the same radio at the same time, and his faceplate wouldnt motorize out. basically he got a defective radio, and mine worked. it happens
-
I believe skar and dc have 4-4.5K amps. Might check them out. Not sure on prices
-
i hooked up my old 12's with my 15's just for fun. separate amps, separate boxes. didnt sound too bad. but, i didnt have as good electrical as i do now. i would say it would be a fun little experiment to do one time
-
i think the reason this started off wrong was that you asked about connecting a power wire, and you're shopping for battery terminals. we're here to help, but sometimes you have to be VERY specific with your question. we're not mind readers. but, hopefully your question has been answered
-
Don't get upset. You clearly asked if you use the negative or positive terminal of the battery for the power. Did not say anything about shopping for terminals.
i missed that part too.
-
I used the 20sqft from SecondSkin. I just cut sections of it and placed it in key areas of the trunk and also in my doors. It's stopped pretty much all vibrations. Gonna invest in another 20sqft pack to cover more areas, just to put my mind at ease
-
As for space, I haven't done the exact measurements, but I'll check on it before I put everything into motion. I think my trunk is big enough. As for electrical, I'll be upgrading to a H/O soon. And Im running a second battery in the trunk already. Basically I DON'T wanna run at .5 daily, even if the amp can handle it. It's a daily driver, not a show/demo car.
-
amp is a mono, the two sets of terminals are there for ease of wiring, itll be like you wired down to 1ohm, if you did each coil to each set of terminals on the amp....im pretty sure im right, but i could be wrong, anyone wanna varify?
edit, dual 1's will go to .5 if you do what i said above..
i really cant read thoroughly tonite
basically meaning that if i got a dual 1, and wire each coil into each speaker terminal, then the amp would be seeing a .5 load?
-
Yeah go dual 2. There's no need to wire at .5 for daily.
yeah, def no need for .5 for me. thats why i wanted to stick to 1. figured i would ask here, before i went and made a mistake. plus, with my headache right now, im not thinking straight lol
-
it looked like a mono to me, thats why i was slightly confused on why it had two speaker terminals. looks like ill lean to the dual2
-
my original idea was to go with an 18" FI SSD, and keep my power acoustik amp.
my new idea is to go with a Audioque HDC318 and power it with a AQ1200D.
my theory is this: the AQ amp says its stable down to 1ohm. i noticed two speaker inputs on the amp. so, my idea was to go with a dual1 with the sub, and wire each coil into each speaker terminal.
OR....should i get a dual2, wire it down to 1ohm, and use only one of the speaker terminals?
keeping in mind that budget is a factor, tax return money will free up some, but this is why i picked these combo's. trying to get rid of the cheapy stuff.
-
Looks like someone slapped a Kinetik sticker on a UB1280 bat... because aren't Kinetik cases also blue and not black?
oh yeahhhhhh. all blue case
-
kinda blurry. what concerns you? the fact that the label came off? or the print under it?
-
this is every audio person's worst nightmare lol
-
"not real 4 gauge" means that some companies trick you, and add more coating to the wires, so that it may be similar in size to other true 4g wire, but the rip offs, dont have as many thread counts as the better brands.
-
sounds like you have a great start. i dont remember about the welding cable. i know ive seen people post the website, but i cant remember it right now
-
If you have the two chambers sealed off from each other, that would be a bitch to port, because you would have to cut the spacers to allow airflow into the port. Plus with the wood being screwed and glued together. You might as well just leave the box alone. Unless you plan on building a whole new ported boxed
-
looks like i know where my tax return money is going!
-
So you have two spacers in the box? And room to cut out a port in the middle? Or do you have just one spacer separating the two chambers?
-
You put "http" twice. That's why the pic didn't show up lol
-
just be mindful if you build it to Skar specs, because itll probably sound funny. and i wouldnt hammer on it and tear up the pioneers. then again, the specs might not be that far apart. i havent looked at the skar's, so im not 100% sure
Nitrous installed in the Lexus ISF (DYNO numbers Page 6)
in Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
Posted
cant wait to see this thing finished!