Kdub26
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Posts posted by Kdub26
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Do it. Clarion eq, you won't be disappointed. It's like am addiction for me too, deal of the day gets me at least once a week lol
lmao i did the same thing. i kept it open, and i would check it every day and see what the deal of the day was. but yeah, def gonna get the clarion eq. too bad its not red-ish to match everything in my car. but, thanks to everyone with trying to figure out what this thing is. obviously more input is never refused. at least i have a direction now
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If you're in no rush to upgrade that amp, get and eq from sonicelectronix or audiosavings for less than $70, adjust your tuning to your liking. It's a great investment.
audiosavings is like a drug addiction for me lol. an EQ was def on my list of things to buy. that'll probably be my next investment.
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I feel like I've seeen a Pyramid amp similar to that but with different inputs.
idk how their amps are, but from what ive heard, their subs are junk. i tested out this amp with a spare batt i had, and i know it works, i was just wondering how well it would work. i was hoping that i got an older model of a good name brand. but seeing as though the logo couldnt even stay on, hopefully thats not a sign of whats gonna happen with it down the road
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Yea, either get the freq. right, or browse Ebay for an affordable alpine or kenwood amp. Only reason I mention those is because they're fairly reliable and they sell for a decent price.
yeah i dont have any specific freq that i want. just as long as its clean and clear. ill probably use this amp for now, then get an actual 4-ch that i know the power rating for. this'll be my first setup for having an amp for my mids and highs, and this amp was practically given to me, so im just trying to utalize it.
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Seeing that it only has one 20 amp fuse, we can say that 20 amps times 14volts equals 280watts, so it can be no higher than that. As adam said, it does look like a dual amp or some equal brand.
seems to be the easy math way to figure it out. just goes to show that im still learning. probably guessing that they advertised this to be a 300+/- watt amp
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it doesnt have any numbers anywhere around it that will help in finding what it is
he spot for the logo, seems to be rectangular in shape. looks like it was set in place with some kind of adhesive. the warranty seal has a few chinese/japonese letters. has a barcode # of X190098070200268. top of the barcode has PK062#0/212 (# being that i cant read that number)
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Lol I know, but the 4ga inputs throw me off a little bit. I'd say give it the 4ga power and ground and power it correctly and see how the outcome is. Worst case scenario is that the seleniums will be under powered with a clean signal.... As long as you tune it correctly though.
yeah i figured i would probably have them underpowered with this amp. ima be easy on them until i feel as though i get the right freq that i want
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for voice go HPF and set it to 250hz or 125hz Steve has a video on how to tune it
yeah i already switched it over to HPF. guess ill see when i get my mids and tweets in.
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im guessing its 200 to 250 rms
yeah i was guessing that too. i just dont wanna set the gains too high. guess ill just have to set it by ear
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Kinda looks like a dual amp to me, judging by the design of the heat sink.
ugh. not what i wanted to hear lol
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a coworker gave me this amp. it doesnt have a brand name or logo anywhere on the amp. it has a spot for one, but obviously is gone now. i ordered two Selenium 6w4p's and two selenium ST200 super tweeters, and wanted to run them off of this amp. it looks like maybe in the 200-500 watt range, due to its size.
here are the observations of it:
- 2 channel
-power/ground appear to be 4g inputs
-speaker inputs appear to be 8g
-(1) 20A fuse
-high input plug
-dials: gain, bass boost, LPF, HPF, crossover switch
-low input & low output rca's.
also, any suggestions on the approx freq range to set it at when i get the amp in. or even if its worth it to use the amp.
the guts
the dials
size comparison
thanks for the help
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The remote wire might be it. I didn't think about it. Also if you have a second battery, what is the cap for? or just for looks?
Not trying to sound like 99.99% of the audio heads on the net, I'm legitimately curious.
Cap was removed at the time of trunk battery install. Its not in my car anymore
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A cap!!!??
Cap is GONE. at the time of battery install, the cap was removed. It is not in my car, as noted in my signature. This was not about the cap.
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here a couple pics. probably wont help with fixing the problem
cap is not in use. it has already been taken out
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Sounds to me like a ground or hot wire are not as secure as you think. And because you didn't mention it, I'll ask: Do you have a fuse on both sides of your hot wire? I don't think that is the problem, but could be a problem one day. Also You said the fuses are okay, but what about the wires running into and out of them? Are they nice, tight, clean, and still copper colored?.
edits in red
all hot wires do have a fuse. although, i think my easiest solution would to be to run a new remote, since i spliced it, and also just used electrical tape. i have noticed first hand of crimps and connections coming loose. so, when this rain decides to subside, im gonna tighten and double check EVRYTHING
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Run a new remote wire. I know you said it checked out fine, but just run a new one. A loose remote wire is usually the problem whenever I have ran into that same situation. Run something like 18-22 gauge for it. I know it's overkill but if you used an amp wiring kit, then you should know that crappy little remote wire they give breaks way to easily.
that was my ideal solution was to run a whole new remote wire. i did a manual test with a 4ft section of wire, and manually turned on my amp, and it worked. so i THINK it may be the remote. i had to splice in two sections of wire, because it wasnt long enough. it may be 22g, so ill bump it up to 18, and hopefully that will help. but i gave the whole length of remote a good tug, and it seems to still be nice and tight. ill see if i have any pics i can post
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im only asking this question on here because of lack of weather to allow me to get my hands dirty and find out what could be the problem. basically: if i hit a weird bump in the road, sometimes my amp will just shut off or makes a "pop" sound (which doesnt sound good at all) or just wont come on when i turn my radio on.
things i have checked:
second battery is still charging
inline fuse is still good
amp fuses are not blown
grounds are still secure
remote wire is still attached from the back of the radio
sometimes when the subs hit a good bass note, it causes the amp to pop off. and it just doesnt it when im playing bass or not. almost sounds like MAYBE something on the inside of the amp that needs to be fixed. anything to point me in the right direction would be helpful.
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And you weren't shot down yesterday. People just gave you their honest opinions about pyramid audio. Which is..... They are complete shit. Don't get butthurt about it.
oh wow. i didnt know the previous idea was with pyramid audio....hmmm well thats quite a big jump from that, to a $8K+ system
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Hope you have the electrical to back that up. I didn't see your previous thread, so I don't know if you had your electrical planned out.
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Sounds like a good deal
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im doing my big 3 with cadence 0g from audiosavings. not sure how the quality stacks up to others, but i figured i would add more fuel to the fire here
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Sounds ok to me. Idk the power ratings on those components. Post pics when you get them in!
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i have some cadence 0g from audiosavings. its not a bad price. although, i havent bought a bunch of different brands to know the quality difference. but, not near as flexable as the kicker's hyperflex.
what amp is this?
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i might do it like that. my h/u has output for a highs amp. which, i already have a pair of sting rca's hooked up to that and ran to the back where my batt is. or, ill just get a DD-1. ive been wanting one ever since it came out