Kevin M
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Posts posted by Kevin M
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I know some people are using them in an open baffle home setup. I'll look for the picture to give you an idea.
I did manage to find an old school setup with 8 of them in a van
By the Bye; here is a lower cost alternative. Thought about getting a few of these to play with in the car. I am sure that they wouldn't go ham lol but they would be a riot in the car.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/MCM-AUDIO-SELECT-55-2985-/55-2985
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The ribbons look just like the ones from PE. I wonder how the price will compare.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-085
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I used mdf, exp. foam, and fiberglass. No foam or fiberglass is in contact with the headliner just the plastic pieces at the b pillar. When I redo the wall most of it should snap off and I can hit the panels with a little sandpaper and they are good as new.
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Tell us about the speakers and amps you have now and we can find you a midbass for your application. If I'm reading this right you will have a gap in the freq. response. I would try to overlap the x-over points of the midbass and sub. For example my subs are crossed at 60 hz and my midbass play 60hz-1500. Your front mids shouldn't have any trouble playing low. Need more info homie.
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If you want to go the IB route these are the subs I would recommend.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-455&FTR=infinite%20baffle
IB setups are fun and you can save trunk space. You will need to seal the trunk completely from the cabin. Any gaps will result in loss of bass and bad group delay. Some people use the vents in the trunk in an IB while others seal them. Sometimes it helps output, sometimes it doesn't. I had a IB setup in my Malibu last year. 2 18" on 120 watts. It sounded awesome. Don't expect any bone crushing bass though. It will give you a better freq. response though. I know a cat using these subs all the way up to 200 hz in an sq setup.
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Surprised no one put this up yet.
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It reminds me of those old Velodyne subs back in the nineties, but they ween't made for anything close to spl (120db) This a variation on that tech?
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I found an article that is worth looking at. Patrick Bateman wrote it. He is a madman but brilliant when it comes to acoustics in a vehicle.
http://www.diymobile...ne-tweeter.html
I will amend this post if I can find anymore.
another shorter one...
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/hlcd/123238-horns-midrange-only.html
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I feel your pain my friend. I run the full bodies from ID. I have been at this problem myself and have come up with a couple options. One of which I will be pulling the trigger on soon. The problem is getting one to match the sensitivity. Here are a couple that should work.
http://usspeaker.com...%201.38tw-1.htm I'll be getting a pair of these to run in the A pillars. Note the size. 5.9" for a tweeter. lol
Here is another to look at to look at.
http://usspeaker.com.../B&C-DE35-1.htm
These will play a little higher than the horns but will still need some eq to get that 20k sparkle. lol
http://www.madisound...-super-tweeter/
This one will play all the way to 20k and then some but will be 10db less efficient than the horns.
How many watts do you have on your horns now? Have you tried eq"ing? Due to the shape of the horns they have a natural rolloff of ~16k. You could also try a ribbon. I looked at some fancy pants aurum cantus and Fountek. Sensitivity isn't as high as I like but they do have a large diaphragm and that can make up for it.
http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=276-438
http://www.madisound...r-flange-black/
I would love to have a pair of these in my car but the Ciare's are a better fit for me.
How are you looking with your EQ setup on those horns ??
I only run a 7 band which is ok for the moment. When I get a 1/3 octave I can peel away everything and finally show what the horns are capable of. I have good stage height and width but the peaks in freq. response (mostly from 1-6k) are really putting the kaibosh on my system. It sounds good but needs to sound great. It seems to have moments where I am blown away by certain tracks so I know the potential is there.
I saw an article from Eric Stevens (owner of ID) and he used a supertweeter and have been dying to try integrating them with the horns. I'll try to find the article. He was using TAD's to get the job done but a tweeter that is 105db 1w/1m should be up to the task. The problem is the sonic speed and dynamics of the horns are a hard act to follow..
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I feel your pain my friend. I run the full bodies from ID. I have been at this problem myself and have come up with a couple options. One of which I will be pulling the trigger on soon. The problem is getting one to match the sensitivity. Here are a couple that should work.
http://usspeaker.com/ciare%201.38tw-1.htm I'll be getting a pair of these to run in the A pillars. Note the size. 5.9" for a tweeter. lol
Here is another to look at to look at.
http://usspeaker.com/B&C-DE35-1.htm
These will play a little higher than the horns but will still need some eq to get that 20k sparkle. lol
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/bullet-tweeters/fostex-ft17h-horn-super-tweeter/
This one will play all the way to 20k and then some but will be 10db less efficient than the horns.
How many watts do you have on your horns now? Have you tried eq"ing? Due to the shape of the horns they have a natural rolloff of ~16k. You could also try a ribbon. I looked at some fancy pants aurum cantus and Fountek. Sensitivity isn't as high as I like but they do have a large diaphragm and that can make up for it.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=276-438
I would love to have a pair of these in my car but the Ciare's are a better fit for me.
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I have heard them in a car and home setup. I liked them a lot and considered a 3 way with them and morel dome midranges before I got my horn setup. You won't be disappointed.
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I think my subs are pretty great for the cost. I won't be breaking any records with them but as far as entry level subs they work great.
http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=295-475
Don't need much power either... Which can be a consideration for alot of people. (300RMS/450max lol)
3 18" in a sealed wall did 145.8 outlaw and now that it is ported I am sure it is closer to 150 then I have ever been and that is on bullshit power (1500 watts).This is an alternative if you don't have the option of dropping 1k+ on subs and another thou on electrical upgrades and an amp. Just something to consider.
See, I guess loud is all subjective. We did 148.8 on two 15" BTLs on 1500 watts RMS walled, tuned to 38hz, not sealed off or electrical upgrades...stock 70 amp alternator
You're right it is subjective. From the point of view of most people just getting into car audio anything over 140+ is pretty loud for a daily setup even if you're not really considered loud until you hit 150. lol You know what I mean? I think mine is still pretty loud and the subs do a hell of a job for what they are. no "butthurts". haha just throwing that out there.
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I think my subs are pretty great for the cost. I won't be breaking any records with them but as far as entry level subs they work great.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-475
Don't need much power either... Which can be a consideration for alot of people. (300RMS/450max lol)
3 18" in a sealed wall did 145.8 outlaw and now that it is ported I am sure it is closer to 150 then I have ever been and that is on bullshit power (1500 watts).This is an alternative if you don't have the option of dropping 1k+ on subs and another thou on electrical upgrades and an amp. Just something to consider.
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Looks like it could be a good match. I would like to hear a pa mid and a soft dome together. Sounds like winning to me. The mids will be a little louder due to the dif. in sensitivity but that should work fine. There are some higher sensitivity tweeters that cost more or less if you wanted to entertain some other options.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-084
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=275-085 These are big bastards for sure but they are awesome drivers.
Either one of these would work too.
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Worked on mine for over a year and just got it done. Other things always get in the way. Like having to buy a lawnmower (power assist ftw) and refrigerator for a new house or replacing a sensor in your expedition because the transmission just started to act wonky and go 5 miles an hour in drive. lol I have to keep reminding myself to stay the course and be patient. It will get done even if it's not as timely as I like. I can tell you it's a hell of a lot easier to do this at 35 then it was at 25. haha
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You can wall it like he mentioned. You can also add more cone area or more power or both lol. That will give you more output.
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I was looking for a volvo station wagon or a crew cab I could turn into a walkthrough. That would be a little different. Mechman makes a 275amp alt for our cars. You can fit 6 18" in our cars. You just need to cut out the rear deck and build into the trunk. lol Just wait and see this fall. hehehe
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I have it in my doors and in my subwoofer wall. This is in my wall...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-515
A picture through the port of it installed...
and this is what I use for my doors.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-525
For the subwoofer wall it helped tame some peaks it had and felt it made for a more even freq response.(30-60hz) It won't remove standing waves per se but it will eliminate some higher frequencies.
With the doors it greatly improved the midbass response and seemed to add a large amount of depth to the frontstage. I could hear the difference immediately. Well worth the 30 bux it cost.
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When I saw the thread title I was expecting this lol It's cool though
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Had two 18" in an IB config in my malibu last year. Sounded awesome and disappeared on most tracks. Couldn't even tell where the bass was coming from. They can get quite loud with the right drivers and power. You won't be touching 50's though but that isn't the point of IB. I didn't have enough output so I changed. If I were to do a sq build in a sedan this is the way I would go. Multiple drivers is the key. Believe it or not there is some sq guys that are using 2 or 3 of the Pyle Blue wave15". They say they are great in this config.
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I have a 10" in my doors so yeah I have a ton of midbass. I can tell you that my eq has been turned down at 125 and 315hz. I have a pretty big peak in that freq area. This is a good thing though. I would rather eq it down then have to boost it if I didn't have enough.
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A box could help with lower freq. 500 and below. Give it a shot. I would imagine in between .25 and .75 cubes would be more than adequate.
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Your first 150 is always awesome. At first you can't believe how loud it is; that it could even get that loud. I sat in the Rockford demo van for my first and then Audiofanaticz gave me a 154 demo and it felt so much louder. haha Then you sit in a 160 and it's a whole other level of crazy. I wanted to tap. Barney gave me chest pain. lol I was fucked up for a few minutes after I got out of it. Don't know how Mike (mlstrass) says he's used to it. I would be happy with a 150-155.
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21 inch Pyle?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted · Edited by TheScottishBear
For sure. I bet you could put 4 of these in a sealed enclosure (~26-30cu.)dampened to all hell, stuffed with poly and foam. Yeah, the xmax and true power handling is weak sauce and your Fs would be in the high 30's but damn. It's a 21". 2-4 of them would do work. Couple that with cabin gain and you are looking at a beast that moves air on low wattage. I'm all for the WoW factor over being loud but that's just me.