Kevin M
-
Posts
2048 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by Kevin M
-
-
I use them in my car and for the cost of the horns, drivers, and eq you could get a sick 3 way comp set. They are really efficient. I have the image dynamic horns. They are still easy to find if you know where to look. My setup cost ~$400. not including the midbass in the doors so a figure around 500 is pretty accurate. Worth every penny though. You need an efficient midbass to keep up with them. I have a 10" on 8x the power than the horn and at 91db 1W/1M they are having trouble keeping step. There is also debate as to whether the midbass driver should be the same diameter as the horns mouth length. ~12" One of the reasons I am going to try a 12" PA driver. A couple pics of my horns and the ones Richard Clark had in his dash. I think he was using 2" compression drivers. JBL or TAD's; over a grand a piece! I can't remember which...
The beasts. I heard they weighed over 50 lbs. lol
They have become smaller as you can see. The ones I have crossfire extremely hard due to the center console. That's why I chose the full size horn bodies. The mini's are even smaller and couple to the dash much better.
-
You could buy a couple of these
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-472
or you could call PE and they will build you a custom set for around the same price.
-
It works. I used to be into it when I was in my twenties. Stephen La Berge wrote a good book on the subject. It is hard to master for sure... But when you get better you can do all kinds of crazy stuff. Like chronicle except in your subconscious. Lol
-
I have done all my videos with my ipod but I would definitely like to go the hd route and get something with a better fps rating. They don't sound too bad for what it is though.
-
You could try Diyaudio or Audiokarma. I can spend an hour reading there easy. Maybe you need more subscriptions. I have over 90. Fresh content all the time. Most are car audio but you could try Mahoganysessions (acoustic live performances), fps russia (guns guns guns lol).
Funny website. Stick figure death theater
In the meantime here is a vid that should keep you engaged for 15 minutes lol
-
Ahhhhh, are those pics up in the build log>?
I went out this morning and took them. I just put the cam in side the port
-
Holy shit Kevin! Should have put a disclamer up, WALL OF TEXT! lol, Seen the pics the bam! Good shit though, never knew you put that in your box!
Edit: Wall of txt disclaimer, GOOOD READ!!!!
hahaha Thx bro. It's a long read but worth it if you want to get a better idea on it's applications The foam has only been in there for about 3-4 weeks. It wasn't in when you heard it. You'll need to get another demo.
-
Polyfill works, so does egg crate foam but they work for two different reasons. You can use it in ported enclosures, it just needs to be stapled to the interior wall. There needs to be a clear path or transition for the air to travel through. I have 8 pieces of 2 1/4" egg crate foam in my wall.
Looking through port...
Rear wall of the wall lol
It could be a placebo effect but I definitely felt I was louder over the same freq. range with it than without. (25-60hz) Better attack and decay. Now that it is ported the foam is still inside. If your ported enclosure is on the small side you can use poly to help but from what I have seen it tends to lower the tuning freq. 3-10hz from what I have read. Some HT cats throw whole pillows in their enclosures which contain the polyfill. lol
There is also diminishing returns when you try to stuff more than 1 lb. per cu. feet regardless of the alignment the drivers in. Sadly, no one has done any experiments so most of my info is anecdotal just based on what I have read and firsthand experience. Here is an interesting article on the subject...This information was taken from an article by Tom Nousaine, Car Stereo Review, March/April '95
It's no secret that you can use fiberfill to make low-end magic; clever installers have
been using it for years. Take two boxes of the same size and type, insert the same
woofer into each one, and stuff one with some fiberfill. The one with the stuffing should
kick out lower bass.
In simple terms, it works like this: The fiberfill fools the woofer into thinking that it's in a larger box (one with more air, or internal volume) than it really is. And, in general, the larger the box, the lower the bass you can get out of it.
Fiberfill stuffing is a popular alternative for people who can't or don't want to allow a lot of
space for a subwoofer box.
The particulars of fiber stuffing are pretty interesting: The air inside your enclosure
actually heats up as your woofer moves, making the air stiffer. When the enclosure is stuffed with fiber, the fibers wiggle, dissipating some of the heat and making the system work as though the box were larger. Theoretically, your
woofer/box bass system can act like a system that's a maximum of 40 percent larger
when you've latched onto the right stuffing recipe – in other words, if you have an
enclosure that offers 1 cubic foot (1 ft³ ) of internal volume, in a perfect world a good
stuffing job will make it perform like an enclosure that offers 1.4 cubic feet of internal
volume.
There are three types of stuffing that are commonly used for this purpose: fiberglass
insulation, long-fiber wool, and polyester fiberfill. Fiberfill is the best choice because it doesn't come loose and fly around and irritate your skin or lungs like fiberglass, it works as well as either of the others, it's a lot cheaper than wool, and moths hate it. I recently bought five 20-ounce bags of it at $1.99 a pop (a total of 6.26 pounds for $9.95) at
Minnesota Fabrics; that turns out to be about $1.60 a pound. You should be able to find
some at any fabric store or in the bedding section at friendly stores like K-Mart or Home
Depot.
To evaluate the effectiveness of box stuffing, I used an MLSSA analyzer to measure the
impedance of three enclosures – 5.l-cubic-foot sealed, 1.4-cubic-foot sealed, and
1.4-cubic-foot ported (the port measured 3 inches in diameter and 6 inches in length) –
with various densities of stuffing. For the sealed boxes, I was able to determine the
effective box size – as enhanced by the stuffing – using the system's resonant-frequency
and Qes values. For the ported box, I compared the tuned frequency of the empty
enclosure to the tuned frequency of the stuffed enclosure, using the Speak for Windows
computer program; this enabled me to find the effective box size that fit the actual
resonant frequency I'd measured.
In each case, the news was good – make that very good. With all three boxes, I enjoyed
roughly 25 to 35 percent of "space gain" by using stuffing at a rate of 1 to 1.75 pounds
per cubic foot of internal volume.
When making system performance predictions, be aware that the Qes figure – and,
therefore, the Qts figure – of the sealed boxes dropped. And with the ported box, the
peak of the impedance curve on the lower side of the tuned frequency became heavily damped below the box's point of resonance. I also found that there is such a thing as too much of a good thing: System resonance (Fsb) rises again, beginning with densities of around 1.5 pounds of stuffing per cubic foot of box volume; this happens because the fibers are jammed so tightly together that they stop wiggling and, consequently, stop dissipating heat.
I also found that stuffing gets less effective as box size increases. The morale: The
bigger your box is, the harder it is to fool your woofer.
A few rules of thumb: Stuff small enclosures – those with up to about 3 cubic feet of
internal volume or less – with 1.5 pounds of fiberfill for each cubic foot of internal volume
and you should get about a 30-percent increase in box volume without seriously affecting
other performance variables. For larger enclosures, add stuffing at a rate of
approximately 1 pound per cubic foot and you should get a virtual-space boost of about
25 percent.
-
Even though the molds came off they did lose shape. And I'll have to make another pair later on and try this all again. You can sure learn a lot from trying something out, because everything I thought would work in my head has turned out differently.
Edit: I'll have to remember to try out the foil though.
Sometimes the change of shape happens when they are not fully cured or don't contain enough layers to retain their shape. 3-5 base layers of a good chop matte in layers should have the strength. The foil works great and you don't want to make a mold and spend 15 minutes trying to remove it lol. I've been there. lol It's cool that you are trying though and it is the only way to get good. I see alot of scaredy cats on here thinking fiberglassing is something that is mystical or only done by people in hazmat suits. lol
-
So you are going to do a wall then? I know noiseycricket (Anthony) has 4 15" in a bandpass in his malibu same as ours so it certainly is possible. Why not just go ported? It would save you a ton of room and you could build it outside the car.
Eh. Considered it. I actually thought about a bass tunnel. I might just put two in at first and then do the wall.
I mean, I'll eventually have a family and stuff, but lets be honest. I've only filled my entire car once, and my girl has her own car now so I never have to pick her and her sister up from school anymore. So my back seat never gets used.
4 15" in a trunk has that impossible feeling to it. Two of them would be pretty crazy. No need to jump into a wall till you're ready. Big commitment lol
-
So you are going to do a wall then? I know noiseycricket (Anthony) has 4 15" in a bandpass in his malibu same as ours so it certainly is possible. Why not just go ported? It would save you a ton of room and you could build it outside the car.
Yes I was lurking. lol and Dayton kicks ass. Just wanted to throw that out there lol
Is this your card...http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-420
-
Looks like good product poorly installed
-
I think Lem has 2 of them in each of his doors in his cutlass and I thought they sounded great. I use the 2500ti's in my ID horns. Selenium are a little hot in the midrange area 1-4k but a lot of people use them. They get ridiculously loud on low power as well.
-
No way- not ever, nuh uh, NEVER.
OP- you SUCK for posting that. I can make myself light headed and sick just THINKING about that video again...
Thx buddy lol. It had the same effect on me when I watched it.
-
Saw this one in my YT travels. I have been bungee jumping ~75 ft. and interviewed at a wind farm so it doesn't bother me that much but this is a whole other level of crazy.
-
I like a solid fronstage first but since I use a 10" midbass I guess I am a little bias.They play quite nicely to ~60hz. It all comes down to individual taste really. Can you live with an overpowering substage until you can afford a comp set or two?
-
A lot of people don't like ICP, but that should have absolutely zero to do with what you do to your subwoofer. It's just music and I am a fan too. The music makes me laugh. With that said I have a another idea for you to try.
Instantly recognizable as ICP. Looks more dust-cap-ish too lol
-
Awesome. First time seeing that. I have seen surrounds tear but nothing that explosive.
-
whats the difference between a horn and super tweet
Both of them are horns, or horn loaded. You can see from the below pictures a horn loaded supertweet, and a couple horns. The third pic is the ID horns I use in my car.The horn is just a guide/ waveguide that controls the direction of the speakers output. A larger horn that is deeper will play much lower than a supertweet but there is a trade off as you lose some high freq. output. The upside of this is that most horns are ridiculous when it comes to efficiency. Most are over 100db 1W/1M....So any loss of high freq output can be offset by that efficiency and It can be eq'd up if necessary.
Hope this helps. They are fun to play with but like any driver they come with their own design challenges.
-
Haven't laughed that hard in a while. I just had to sub their channel. Shit had me cheezin. Great video
-
Try using a 3.5 mil cable with rca's on the end and hooking that to the aux of the HU. It hooks up just like headphones would.
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP
-
Pandora on the smart phone hooked to the aux input on your HU will work too. I go to the ipod when I can't get a signal. I haven't listened to normal radio in like forever.
Heavy rotation FTL. It might be worth the 10 bux a month for xm though. I just wanted to offer another alternative. -
Scottish, if you need any building/tuning help just pm me, if you don't have my number. I don't remember if we exchanged. School is ending here pretty soon so I'll have some free time on my hands.
It may be a month or two for me to get the funds together to start but I will definitely take you up on that. I'll pm you my no.
-
Audio is a bitch of a game.
BUT. With six 18s walled in a car (even sealed) you could play damn near anything you want at their RMS rating and it will hit. It won't play into the low 20s like a blowthru and it won't peak at 40hz like a ported box and it won't be perfectly fat 25-80 but it will play damn near whatever you throw at it.
-Drew
Thx Drew. I am going to try it. Inverting the subs should give me any extra space I think I'll need and it has the added benefit of looking cooler. lulz
.gif){kind=small}
Wave Guides - anyone remember those???
in Mid's and highs
Posted · Edited by TheScottishBear
You can hit me up and I can try to answer any questions that you have. I have a horn tuning treatise if you want I can pm that to you if and when you get a pair. People talk about how they are difficult to tune and need 1/2 to 1/3 octave eq's as they have a couple nasty peaks in the vocal region (2,4,and 6k being the worst offenders) and drop off around 16k. My passenger side midbass is wired out of phase as is the drivers horn. It seemed to bring the stage up almost to eye level despite their locations under the dash. The eq part is mostly true but I only have a 7 band at the moment and I think they sound really great. There is a big benefit only having 4 speakers in your frontstage as well and they are so efficient that they get quite loud on 30 watts due to the sensitivity. 111db1W1M There is also the fact you have no xover point in the vocal region which is critical. I have mine x-over at 1.2k @24db/octave.
I'm not sure why they fell out of favor. Maybe it's because most people now just want plug and play and there isn't anything wrong with that...I guess. Cost is another factor. As I mentioned above you're already in it 500 bux before you do any fabrication, dsp, etc.
As far as I know they are out of business. I got my lenses from Woofersetc.com after doing some research and talking with Eric Stevens (owner of Image Dynamics and designer of the horns) He is on DIYMA. I am considered a heretic (Not by Eric, but others) due to my integration of the horns in an spl configuration. When you think about it though it's the natural evolution of the horns, due to their efficiency and dynamics. I wish I could come down that way I could give you a demo like we talked about before but it would be a mission from the Chicago burbs' lol.