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Posts posted by Kevin M
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I only have 54" width and that is to the door panels. I thought a staggered setup might work though. If I removed the rear deck it would be much easier. Should I put sealed back on the table lol?
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I know this may sound crazy...
you have so much cone with six 18s have you considered just going sealed? It is similar to tunnels that are not ported but they have so much fucking cone and motor force in such a small space they end up really loud and sound really good. IF you can somehow it 60" wide in a car six 18s in a sealed horizontal clam would be different, be reliable, and sound pretty damn good.
-Drew
Don't give me any ideas lol I thought about sealed but these Daytons need at least 6cu just so I can get any kind of response to 30 hz.
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That is what I wanted to hear guys. It sounded crazy but the more I thought about it; it started to sound reasonable. haha I guess it will be 4 18" this fall then. Thx for the quick responses..
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This fall I would like to rebuild my wall but I have a couple questions about it. The plan is to do 6 18" in a ported clamshell but to get the necessary airspace I will have to build into the trunk. I need to know the pros and cons of this. My main question is, Would there be excessive port turbulence due to the enclosures shape and is there any way to counteract it? Would you recommend a different style of ported enclosure? I don't have any problem with cutting the rear deck and getting some supports welded in.
The present wall is ~19 cu. I have a big trunk that I can get a ton of cubes from. I am kinda stuck on the idea but I don't have a benchmark to compare it to. If it possible to build it I definitely want to but if the engineering problems will be too difficult I would really like someone to tell me. I am happy to admit I might be a little out of my depth. lol And telling me I am a nut for wanting to put 6 18" in a passenger car isn't a good enough reason for me not to do it. lol
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alright what will uall suggest i already have 4 sa 12's and a powerbass xa3000d should keep it or add to it? like more power or more subs?
Are you not happy with the output from the above setup? Throwing a bunch of power at the problem isn't always necessary. You could try a more efficient design like bandpass or ported at a different freq. to get more out of what you already have. What are your goals? Is walling an option? What kind of music do you prefer? Are you comfortable fabricating pods for the doors or kicks? How much are you willing to spend on your frontstage? Do you want a daily monster over 150db? These are just a couple of the questions you need to ask yourself.
Most of us have gone through several setups trying to build a future-proof system. Stick to a budget if you must but not at the expense of what you want.Take your time and do some research and scour the net for deals. If it takes a year to get everything you want; fuck it, that's how long it takes. hahahaha
In the end it all comes down to how far you are willing to go to get what you want. I have spent ~2k and my setup does 145's on music (1500 watts) which I think is great. It's certainly possible to get loud-ish lol on low power with inexpensive components...but it will take some research like I mentioned. Once you get a handle on what you really want out of your system you'll be much happier and building it should be easier.
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A simple eq can knock a lot of those peaks off that are hurting your ears. esp. in between 2-6k where your ears are most sensitive. Like people have mentioned above some are just harsh as fuck. lol Try a silk dome or ribbons?
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Payed em off when I was in my twenties and now that I am going back to school I have to sign a master promissary note and start all the nonsense up again. Loans are a means to an end. Paying them is weaksauce, but you have to pay if you want to play...or learn. lol
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Can't see much from the flashlight. lol pulled from the comments on vid. Not sure of the validity...
14 Ultimate 6x9's
14 Zapco 9.0's
28,000 watts
done in 2002
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Did you have any chest pain? I felt jacked up for like 10 minutes afterwards and that was only like 25 seconds. lol I took it like a boss but Lem can tell you I made " bass face." I wasn't about to tap. Whats crazy is I was listening to 155+ vehicles all day. I got in Mike's van (Mistrass) and it was like the first time I had heard a system again. Felt like I was just in a car accident.haha.
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Congrats brochacho. That score is awesome.
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Botany and horticulture. Greenhouse management. I'm at harper college and will be transferring to EIU as a junior.
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Thick cut hickory smoked pepper bacon baked in the oven. Boom. hahhahaa
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The xover point depends on a few things. Wattage and the slope of the x-over being the most important. You could run them all the way to 3k if you were running them under rms with a slope like 18 or 24db/ octave. If you are running them with 100 watts the eminence xover should be fine at 12db/octave. I run selenium compression drivers down to 1k but I have them on half rms and active 24db/octave. These tweets are incredibly efficient 111 db and get stupid loud with a small amount of wattage. You will need a lot of cone area or some pro audio mids to keep up with them. Those bose won't begin to keep up. Too much difference in sensitivity.
You could cross them at 8 or 10 k but you will need another tweeter that played up to around 16k and lacked a little of that shimmer that people like. That is why people use supertweeters in home audio and some car audio setups.
how much do you want to bet that everything you just said went over this guy's head? thats why I didnt go into great detail.
I still think a full detailed explanation could help. If he has questions about it he can always ask.
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Subbed. Sent you another response to that window flex video. Can someone send him that gorilla zoe "Shut em down" Chopped and screwed? I have no idea how to do that and would like to see a vid of it. Thank you.
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The xover point depends on a few things. Wattage and the slope of the x-over being the most important. You could run them all the way to 3k if you were running them under rms with a slope like 18 or 24db/ octave. If you are running them with 100 watts the eminence xover should be fine at 12db/octave. I run selenium compression drivers down to 1k but I have them on half rms and active 24db/octave. These tweets are incredibly efficient 111 db and get stupid loud with a small amount of wattage. You will need a lot of cone area or some pro audio mids to keep up with them. Those bose won't begin to keep up. Too much difference in sensitivity.
You could cross them at 8 or 10 k but you will need another tweeter that played up to around 16k and lacked a little of that shimmer that people like. That is why people use supertweeters in home audio and some car audio setups.
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I put the wrong link up lol
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I will be there.
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Thanks a lot for the well thought out answer bro . You gave those of us who are thinking about horns a ton of info .
When you hear a well tuned horn setup it will be hard to go back to a conventional 2 or 3 way. They are a pain in the ass to mount, expensive, and need eq but they are worth it. They were all the rage with the sq cats back in the nineties but it is hard to find any info on them now. What ID horns do you have? Is it just the lenses are did you buy them complete
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I have a pair of Image dynamics horns that I've had for 3 or 4 years but haven't installed yet . I was wondering if anyone had horns in their setup and if so what amp did they use?
I use an mbquart onyx 4.60 "active" and have the horns crossed at 1000hz (24db) I think there is another person on the forum who uses them remember their name. When installing them you want them as far apart and as deep under the dash as they can go. They use the whole bottom of the dash as a giant waveguide. I used the full size ID horn bodies due to my center console. They also play a little lower than the minis. They do have some peaks as I mentioned in the video. You can get awawy with a 15 band eq or even a seven like me but a 1/3 octave will really help them shine.
They have tremendous output on low power and most of the peaks are in the vocal range. The compression drivers I use (Selenium 2500ti) are 8 ohm so they only see 30 watts which is more than enough. I have the 10" in the doors on 240 watts and they match up pretty well. The wall is on 1500 watts as well It is pretty well rounded and I have no problem playing nickle creek or waka flocka. I am replacing the door speakers with a 12" selenium pro mid which has a higher 1w/1m. If you use a 6 or 8 " you will need a gaggle of wattage to keep up with the horns. Here are a couple x-over points to look at.
Horns 1000hz (24db) -20k
Midbass 80-1000 (24db)
Subbass 80hz -20hz
Follow thi tutorial. to make them really outstanding.
So in this order
- put one side out of phase Horn and midbass driver
- listen and try reversing both horns polarity phase to lift sound stage
- balance left
- t/a left mid only until it lifts up as high as possible then mirror that setting to other side
- then balance center
- t/a left horn and mid together until it shifts center no more than .5 millisecond
- EQ left and right separately as the lower midrange / upper mid bass area 160 to 400 hz range can really lower our stage height. If you dont have an RTA try these settings 125 - 3dB 160 -9dB 200 -6dB 250 -6dB 320 -3dB and see if it is better tonally and stage height wise.
To smooth the top end adjust as follows 2000 -3dB 2500 -6 dB 3000 -6dB 4000 -3db
Thanks to neal for this tutorial.
Awesome Vid Sir ...
Thanks bro. I have wanted to get a demo of your truck for a while.
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I have a Linear Power PA2 AudioPath Enhancer for sale for 350.00 ...
but you will need a crossover for your sub stage ... I know this is over your budget ... but TOTAL control of your system ...
here is the link to specs ... http://www.linearpow...detail/pa2.html
Looks nice but I can't justify spending that much on a speaker eq, especially when I only have a 2000 dollar system.
I have a ~ $2000 system and I am saving for an ms-8. If it is important or you want it bad enough I say to hell with a budget. You just have to be patient.
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Eqs746 from Clarion has all you want for half your budget.
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Thug Motivation 101
Grove St. party
BME click
These are the loudest ones I have found so far, but my wall is sealed. So that could definitely be a factor.
A wall question for the experts
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted · Edited by TheScottishBear
You have me fired up again about it. I definitely would like to try it. My above comment was me using home audio ideas and applying it to car audio. WRONG lol I can see why you laughed. A cars internal space is much easier to excite than a large room in a house. Lower freq. would be easier to achieve despite a smaller enclosure. Cone area would help with that as well.. Does that mean I could build it to 24 cu and still play to the Fs 25hz?