jmilch
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Posts posted by jmilch
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Could you get me your best price shipped to 32776 <-- Sorrento, FL. I'll check my PM's in the morning
PM me how much shipped to 40513 (Lexington, KY)
I am replying to both PM's. I will let chase know if ricky doesnt want it. Thanks guys
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NLS, gone
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**** EDIT** MY PICTURES DO NOT HAVE MY FORUM NAME, SO I GUESS THIS WILL NEED TO BE DELETED UNTIL I CAN GET NEW PICTURES TOMORROW. SORRY MODS ****
Waited months for this to arrive, only to have my entire front end of my car totaled last weekend by a dipshit. I have full coverage, but it didnt cover my custom made alternator, and its turning into a hassle to fight with the insurance people. So I am going to just sell this and wait a few months to see what happens with my Eclipse.
I have a brand new DC Audio XL12 M2 (new motor design)
Never seen power. Only pulled out of the box for pictures. Ships in original box, with original packaging from DC.
Options:
Dual 1 Ohm Coil
Blue DC audio dust cap
2200 RMS /4400 Max (you know the drill, can handle more on clean power)
From the DC site:
• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly
• Multilayered polymer foam surround
• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo
• Quad 8"OD semi cup progressive roll spiders
• Dual Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire
• Cast aluminum black frame
• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined
• Rubber mounting gasket
• Chrome spring loaded push terminals
• 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum Stealth Coil
Shipping will not be cheap!
$415 OBO + Shipping takes it.
PM me here, or email me directly: admin at migunrack.com
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The net internal volume seems short for dual 15"s and the displacement for the subs seem high. It could sound somewhat tight and need more power to get loud.
I was thinking the same thing about the volume. But I havent run those kickers either.
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THey are nice, don't get me wrong. But I dont think realistically, not that I have personally seen, that they can take more than about 1k rms clean power over long periods of time.
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I bought a pair to try out and did a few demos on a AQ2200d @ 4 ohms, 13.6V no vdrop. And the 2 vvx12's took it nicely. YMMV of course.
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dont those cars have a stock run from the alt going to the fuse/relay box?
I dunno. I wouldn't use that anyways. There is positive plugs by the fuse box for accessories. I figure straight to the battery would be better
well i mean if all your interior stuff is run off of that fuse box, and it has like 8 gauge on it, it would make sense (in my eyes at least) that it would cause the lights to dim. wouldnt hurt to add like 4 gauge to it from the battery or something.
Exactly where I was going with it. This makes the most sense.
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Question 2: where is a good place to by them online?
ncix.ca is probably going to be the cheapest for you.
I have a very high end gaming desktop (I build them once a year) and I run a corsair AX1200. You won't need something like that, but I can tell you Corsair is a very good brand.
Newegg to canada is rather expensive to ship.. same with TD, but if you find a good deal, it would be worth it.
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I just purchased a refurbished SAE-1200D off of DB-r Electronics and it seems there might be a problem. (I ordered a v.1 but they sent me a v.2 (which is fine, better actually lol))
First thing I noticed after opening the box was that it sounded like a bunch of little pieces of something rattling inside of the amplifier. I shook it a little to see if I can get some of it to fall out to see what it was and a bunch of little pieces of what looked like dried hot glue were falling out of it. I already had my truck wired up for it so I put it in to test to see if it was still functional, and it seems to be putting out maybe half the power it should.
I had my sub wired to 4 ohms to a "Boss 800W Max Amp" and it seems to maybe only get a little louder with the sub wired to 1 ohm to this amp. My question is whether I should call up Db-r and ask about them taking a look at it or maybe I might of messed up with the wiring and there are some things I should check out before I do that? I have it wired with 4awg wire to the batt and the frame of my mountaineer, with a 150A fuse at the batt. Maybe I'll try a different ground mounting point?
It's stock electrical, but it doesn't seem like it's being strained, my headlights aren't dimming at all or anything. Sub level on my HU is 15/15 on an Alpine CDA 105.
Sub is a TC Sounds Epic 10" Dual 2Ohm, voice coils wired in parallel, in a 2cu.ft. box. This amp should be able to rock this subs world.
I wouldnt hesitate to call DB-r and see if you can have it replaced. Why risk it!
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I may just keep the IA's since I already have them and had a guy design me box plans. I was just really interested in AQ after I stumbled across them. Guess I'll use AQ on the next build or something.
Buy an AQ amp!
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Do you have a pic of the box? Could be a loading issue. I know you said its a 6th order, but if you are sure it is not a simple wiring mistake, then it may be a fault in the box design.
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maybe 1 has slight coil rub? causing extra friction?? free air both woofers and see if u hear or smell anything strange..
length of speaker wire shouldnt matter unless u have 1 lead 2ft long and 1 lead 6ft long..that might cause a issue then
Wouldnt even cause an issue then!
Good suggestion, free air both on low wattage one at a time and listen for a problem...
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It all depends on what you are trying to do. If you want deafning bass, the 18's are the better choice. The AQ's are a extremely solid choice also. My personally, I would run the 4 x 12's if I had the room.
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Def a soundsplinter. They were great motors!
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There is also a 1911 ninja video
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Happy new years to you also!
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Alright Dustin got it straightened out so far so good. The order was placed today according to Dustin, and he had a chance to talk to Rusty. This thread can be locked.
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For a basic system, it makes no difference diesel or gas.
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and if you dont have a horse in this race. aka the op or dustin or the rep who is taking his place dont post. guess what happens if you do?
Thank you N8. This is not meant to be a poo flinging festival. I just want this issue resolved.
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**edit**
Rather or not he is still a rep I guess is not my issue. He was for sure in September when this transaction took place.
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Responding to your PM
Thanks man. I will edit this thread once this gets taken care of. Sorry I am patient, but I won't get fucked over thats for sure.
**update**
I am going to edit post 1 with the update so far.
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I have emailed you a few times without a response. Maybe your email address has changed?
I was wondering what the status of the order for the DC XL12 was?
I would call it an order since you did charge my credit card back a few months ago (in September). I understand you had a few setbacks, and I was willing to work with you. But it is now almost the new year.
I have all of the PM's, the details, and the tracking number for the partial trade we did. I don't even know if DC got an order from you on behalf of me. I feel like I have waited idle for a long time, so I just want this taken care of.
Let me know whats up man, you've been pretty straight forward in the past, which is why I chose to do business with you, as a rep of DC.
-Justin
**edit**
[update] 12-30-11
Dustin responded that he is going to be placing the order soon (In a PM 12-30-11). I am not going to air out our business unless things don't go properly. I will update this thread once I officially get an order number. Thanks
NLS
in For Sale: Car audio related equipment only
Posted
replied to all other PM's , and changed the pricing to a bit lower.