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tlh_360

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Posts posted by tlh_360

  1. since you only have 1700 watts I'd go with the T2's. The Z's will laugh at that wattage and make you feel sorry for even trying to bump it

    This is true. I recently bought a Zv.3 15 and its ran by a brz1700.1 and you can tell it needs more. I'm going to beef up my electrical and going to get a Crescendo BC2K. I've only been had about 30mins-1hr play time so far but man............I'm in love. lol. Why would you need a re-cone or are you getting one used? Even if it does I would get the Z. Never heard a T2 but man after hearing my Zv.3 I dont think I need to lol.

  2. Great vid as always Steve. Couple questions though. Do your seats fold down or do you have to remove your rear seat every time you work on it? I was wondering because I have been thinking of sealing my sub from the trunk, but with the trim level of my car my seats don't fold down (however I have been thinking about buying a rear seat for my car that do). Would it be beneficial for me to point my sub toward the cabin and seal it off or could it harm the sub? Thanks in advance.

  3. Sorry it took so long to get back but I went ahead with all your suggestions and stripped my entire trunk to find my absolute max dimensions and came up with this:

    Height=16.5", width 32" and depth I want to stay behind the trunk lid opening, (if that makes sense), so depth 20".

    The box is 3.35 cubes, 52.5sq" port area, 15.66sq" of port area/foot, tuned to 33.44hz

    Zv315335cubes.png

    What ya think?

  4. Ya the max dimensions are 18 tall x 32 wide and the depth max is 17.5 and that's right where my floor folds up for my tire well(where the amps/batteries are). I said 18x32x16 in my OP but 17-17.5" can be done but like I said it's at the max.

    You'll need to double up the front so tick baffle in Torres

    You'll need bracing as well so that will be around 0.02-0.03cuft (3/4 or 1" round bar)

    Put a 45's in the the port and opposed side to port(not needed on front as double baffled but you can still put)

    Other that port is all good at 16-17sq" per ft port

    And power that with 15-1800rms and you'll be fine, if you want 2k+ drop the net to 2.5net 19sq" per ft port

    This is why I was at 2.5 cubes. But if 3 cubes will be better then I will definitely do that.

  5. Ya I was thinking about that but ppl said it wasn't necessary. I'll through one in just to be safe. This box is 2.53 cubes with 48sq" of port area, 18.99sq" of port area per foot tuned to 34.40hz. I'm eventually going to through 2k on it and was told that 2.5 cubes with 19sq" port/ft at about 33-34hz would be good for 2k.

  6. Ya I noticed on that I used 16" not 16.25" that I needed, so technically its all wrong. But yes in that mock up is 16 in depth not 16.25 that I need. I was building the box and noticed it. But yes now I have come up with the correct 14 and 22. I will be posting yet another box design shortly. lol. That is why I love SMD. You learn so much. Thanks.

  7. If your port center line length is 36" then the internal port parts should be:

    L Port Internal Assembly Parts:

    Front to Back = 11 x 16

    Extension = 19 3/4 x 16

    Not much of a big deal but you may want to know.

    well the front to back is 11 but how is the extention 19 3/4? that would be 30 3/4 + the 1 1/2 baffle is only 32 1/4.

    right now its front to back 11 + extension 23 1/2 + the baffle 1 1/2 = 36

  8. Ok it took some crunching lol but how is this.

    SPECS:

    box25-----34hz------1899.png

    BOX:

    box25-----34hz------1899sketch.png

    box25-----34hz------1899sketch2.png

    What do you think. The only thing I can think of is only having 4" between end of port and the side wall. Will that be ok since its larger than the 3" port width? Also I dont know how to do 45's on sketchup but I figured there would be 3-4. 2, 45's along the back two corners(in port area), 1 right behind the sub, and maybe 1 on the front wall( right of the sub cut out) depending on what you guys think.

    EDIT: This box is 2.53 cubes, 34.40 hz, and 18.99 sq". It's kinda small to read.

    OK so learned some new sketch up tricks and decided to do some finishing touches on my box. So here it is. I will start building it over this weekend and next week( since I get all next week off for the 4th of July :drink40: ). What do you guys think? All measurements are the same just rounded edges, 45's, and bracing.

    Zv315finalbox1.png

    Zv315finalbox2.png

  9. Ok it took some crunching lol but how is this.

    SPECS:

    box25-----34hz------1899.png

    BOX:

    box25-----34hz------1899sketch.png

    box25-----34hz------1899sketch2.png

    What do you think. The only thing I can think of is only having 4" between end of port and the side wall. Will that be ok since its larger than the 3" port width? Also I dont know how to do 45's on sketchup but I figured there would be 3-4. 2, 45's along the back two corners(in port area), 1 right behind the sub, and maybe 1 on the front wall( right of the sub cut out) depending on what you guys think.

    EDIT: This box is 2.53 cubes, 34.40 hz, and 18.99 sq". It's kinda small to read.

  10. Alright I'll mock it up when I get home later today. Should I put a round brace between the rear port wall and the back wall of the box? I think in just gunna build the 2.5 box now that way I don't have to build two boxes. Would the 2.5ft^3 with 19sq" of port be alright with only 1700 rms?

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