cal
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Posts posted by cal
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i seen a new one 490 shipped if ur interested its on caco
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i just bought a treo 6.1 amp and after i bought it i found some threads that claim these amps are a problem to repair board need to be replaced and are a very expensive repair. i spoke to treo tech abd claims they never had an amp fail . i just want hear actual facts from owners either good or bad on these 2 models please.
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for that price a saz 2500 can be had which does about 3k . i do agree with people tho just because dc level 5 can take 3500 does not mean u should throw at it unless u know what you are doing . no offense the proper box and you could get decent sound out of your current amp
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if you have a level 5 DC18, you should not be on a budget.
lol. how true
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i seen a few for sale whats ur budget?
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ok i follow .yes i did exactly as the manual says i did the h.u. before the amps but it was done on 2 different days
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You set your head unit with 0 db right?
what does that mean? i set all my eq's to flatt turn my hpf off and low pass and then followed the instructions. i did have to use the harness because my rca dont fit the dd 1 .
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i just bought a smd dd1 new and the first issue was the cd that came with the unit was not working it wouild have a hard time going into the h.u. and i would have to try seversal times before it would actually play i called wcca and got say they took care of me steve sent a new cd it works ,but something weird happened the h.u .was warm from me jamming so i tried to check my gains on my amps and i notivced that i was getting clipping at all levels i tried everything so i tried to put the original cd in and weird enough after i got it to play i was able to set my gains . im thuinking that the h.u was alraedy kinda hot and it caused this? also im concerned if this is an issue with mu h.u does this cause clipping when i playing regualr music? figured id ask what u guys think.
want to say tho that the product is great and easy to use tho
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looking to buy a new or mint used ddm3a needs to be a black case and p.m. me or text 312-772-0000 what you got if the right deal comes along i got p.p ready i dont really have a budget but i got a local with a new one for 620 so i would like to stay below that . please if your going to p.m. me make sure you include price and condition of your amp please.
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take a look on mechman website hes got the xs on sale and he charges 10.00 flatt rate shipping. you might find batts cheaper on ebay but ive heard stoies that people are buying a 3 yr old battery from some places. try matt @mechman good guy to deal with call him he may be able to do better on the batt you never know.
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how big is the amplifier ?
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p.m price shipped for 650.4 to 60101.
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is ths knu wire ofc or cca?
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yea try charging the battery and then go to local auto parts and do a load test before the install also make sure the terminals are clean. i had a similar issue the alt was charging but i had some battery acid leak and it built a layer of corrosion arround the terminals so my back aux battery was ok but my front was not charging .
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I have a 3000 watt amp wired to .5 running off 1 XS Power D3100 and a stock 105 amp alt, 60 amps at idle. I never see any significant voltage drops or dimming and I've been doing this same set up or more a few years. A HO Alt is always a good choice for an upgrade, but start off with your batteries and if you need more then look into an alt. Some like to think that adding more batts isn't going help and will strain your Alt, but thats wrong. More good quality AGM batts will put less strain on your alt, and for a stock alt thats a good thing. Nathan from XS Power posted the same thing in the XS Power area on CACO.
i agree with you on the fact that batts definetly help out alt but only when voltage is 12.8 or below not to keep voltage above. if op is looking to keep voltage from dropping below 12,8 he needs to upgrade his alt even if he adds a d3100 it wont help stay above the resting voltage of the batt correct? and for his setup as of now he is not dropping to a level that is a concern especially at full tilt on a hard bass note.im no expert by any means but i have done a a few experiments and we did one on a daily car 175 amp alt 1 kinetik hc 1800 and a ddm3 wired to .5 ohm before rise no problem the amp ran cool and voltage was 13.6 average. we then wired the same setup to .25 and things really got interesting we were able to run the system daily with out the amp running hot or going into protect and the voltage did drop at full tilt to 11.8 so we add another 105 amp batt and problem solved . no this is only a temporary bandaid he has to be carefull to monitor the resting voltage and sometimes he is below 12.6 so we use an c-tek charger. bottom line is he needs an alternator up grade even if we add more batts the reserve wont go above 12.8 it will just last longer. now this was an experiment i dont recomend running an amp below .5 ohm but since he does not care and knowes the risk that even tho the amp is taking it is causing more wear on the amp.
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imo 12.8 is not that bad especially for running an amp at .5 really the batt ais doing the job adding a bigger batt or more wont really help because your batt is resting at 12.8 so in theory it cant get much better unless you do an ho alt to keep up the voltage higher.
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fyi i would stay away from the new mb quart .stick with fosgate or if you want something good and fair priced audioque.
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what is your budget? there is a used one on the forsale forum.
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xs are good no doubt but expensive.i know mechman has some sale on the xs and shipping is a flate rate 10.00
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honestly the most good is comming from the upgrade in the wire size the material of the actual 1/0 reducer wont really make much of a difference in this application. i would go with what your personal prefrence is really. stinger makes some nice 1/o to 4 guage reducers for 8 bucks shipped each on ebay.
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i had a similar problem it was the amp .befroe you start replacing rcas or any eqipment try this unplug all the rcas from the amp leave all your speakers connected just grab a spair set of rca or buy a 2' and plug it in to the amp only leave the other end suspended but try not to make the ends touch each other or you could blow the pico fuse on h.u. if the noise is still comming thru the speakers its your amp . my amp did the same thing i called the manufacture and told nothing you can dom exept get a repair or new amp lol.
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for that budget definetly got to go with a used amp. i had a ddm3a that i sold on caco and a dude posted on my thread he clamped 4k at 1 ohm.
those amps used go for about 500.
from experience dd m3a are beasts very reliable and clean power.
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ihad the mb quart 150.4 the mb line is definetly the top of the line maxxonics product. i bought mine at sonic and was 200 shipped i thought id try it for the money .
so it looks very nice hids the wires for a clean install but thats the best i can say.
to start the amp got ridiculously hot the clip was not accurate at all. to start it had 2 x70 amp fusses i was very surpriesd i know you should not rate and amp by the fusses but lets face it people do it.
so 70 amps for 1000 watts so the 150.4 has the fuseing of a 2000 watt amp???
so if you look at the features of the 150.4 which i forgot to mention has the crossovers to go active for 200 shipped from an authorized delear it is nothing more than an economy amp or budget amp curtainly not the mb quart that was once a quality german product.
i ended up sending the product back because it was running hot and gong into protection and just got my money back.
so to summarize you get what you pay for lol.
who is running aa 500.1 or treo 6.1
in Amplifiers
Posted
i heard that for some reason these amp are hard to work on and usually the whole board needs to be replaced.
thanks for the imput tho.