sbg
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Posts posted by sbg
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i had 2 12'' srx subs on 1000 rms and loved them!! never had a problem intell i put 2 k rms on each then poped them. they take some power alot more then the RMS on them....Got a new re audio srx 12 inch dual 2 ohm I wired it 4ohm but when I test my wires going to the amp it reads 6.8 ohms. I double checked the box and it states dual 2 ohm not the 4 ohm one. Anyone had this problem with the srx 12? Or any other sub? Did I just mess up the wiring or r they just high? Any thoughts?
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lol its a ppi 2000.1 sedona ---- 4000w peak and 2000 rms @ 1ohm its ok payed $300 new on ebayHope is not a $50 2k amp.
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so i just picked up a pioneer premier champion series pro 12 TS-3001D4 sub $ 50 and its just like NEW!! , its 1000w RMS and 3000w peak. . who use's the premier subs? what do people think of them? i just put the one i got in a prefab sealed box for dual 12s cuz i just had it around. i am runing it on my ppi 2k amp @ 2ohm so it getin 1300w RMS to it. but its a sealed box and it just dont seem to hit that hard.
u think a port box will make a big sound difference. i had a re audio srx 12 on 1k in a port box and it out hit this pioneer sub... and the pioneer looks like it should out do the re sub... what u all think -
well i have not ran the sxx? 12s but i have ran RE audio srx 12s in a port box @32hz and it hit hard! on 1kAnyone else have any thoughts on that problem with the speakers distorting after some time of listening.....taking the cap out tomorrow...haven't been driving the car....
Also...thinking about getting 2 RE SSX's 12's....and a new box....sealed or ported?
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im going to just set my stuff in the midd
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To my understanding each number means how wide or narrow of a bandwidth you want the desired component to play. 0.75 being the smallest and 2.0 being the biggest.
I think i am more confused now. Is what you are saying is that the "Q" factor is a way of saying crossover slope? like -12db, -18db, -24db. Like the "Bass" level at +3 with a "Q" of 2.0 would boost a wider range of frequencies off center than a "Q" of .75?
No I don't think it has to do with the slope. Ok, say you set your bass frequency at 40 hertz and put the q factor at 0.75 the bandwidth will extended at both sides a certain amount of frequencies. So putting in a bigger q factor (like 2.0 or w/e) extends the bandwidth at both sides even more than the 0.75.
Example. Bass frequency at 40 q factor at 0.75 the bandwidth would be approximately 35-45 with 40 being the center frequency. Raising the q factor to 1.0 will allow it to play from 30-50. 1.25 will extend it to 25-55.... And so on and so on.
well this is confuseing lol .... so how do u go about setting the Q factor, to know whats best for your setup? do u use this?
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so i just got a JVC KD-S37 head unit, it has some on it i have never seen. on the tone part on the head unit were u turn the bass,mid,treb,sub, .... u can turn the hz and also some numbers like ( bass- Q 1.0, Q 1.25, Q 1.5, Q 2.0) (mid- Q 0.75, Q1.0, Q1.25)
(treb- Q fix) and i dont know how what to set them to!
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i would look in to the american bass line of subs, u can get 2 12s xo or dx for cheap online 160$ for a pair and they will out do the lower line JL stuff W0 w1 w2 ....It'd be nice to match JL's, but I've been told they're kind of over rated. Kicker type R's have my attention as well. I'd prefer to sit at 2 ohms, the lower the better. I'm not looking for attention, but I would like to be able to not hear the person next to me, and still get a solid bump.
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its a real good amp!! for $1000 to 1200 bucksYea, I do... I want to know if that amp is actually a good amp, not if I have the electrical..lol
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i sure the box will be ok, it does have bracing....$275 for 4 subs. yeah they'll be real good quality *eye roll*
that box doesnt look too sturdy either. unless you have some crazy bracing, that single baffle will more than likely flex like a mufugger.
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down the line american bass xlf 15s will go in. they go for
down the line i will buy american bass xlf 15s they are like $200 a sub, and a twin to my amp i have now. i had this box set up in my truck like a year ago with 4 digital audio 15s on 1k RMS and did a 145.4 db on music all day. and them subs were like $40 each lol .... i want to spend a little as i can for now... the sa-15 are the shit but out of my price even when i do save loldear OP, please prepare yourself for the massive numbers of people who are about to say "save your cash and get some sundown sa-15's."
thanks and have a nice day.
personally. i would suggest the american bass xd 15's. only cost $20 more than your budget, and should work well in your low power budget build.
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so i have a good start on my new build.... got my box in-- 15cb ft. sealed with bedliner on the outside and braced walls, my wire all done and my amp painted and mounted. so im now on to the subs that im going to put in... down the line i am going to port this box with areo ports. and put in american bass subs . but for now i am out of cash and want to just get some subs in the box so.. i have to go cheap for a few months intell i get the cash saved for good subs. i want to spend $75 - $100 a sub (online price) i have a precision power 4k amp does 2k RMS @ 1ohm so 400 to 500 watts rms i would want to each sub for the RMS on them. my friend has a truck just like mine and he is runin 2 12'' boss audio Phantom in a port box on 1k rms and it hits HARD for boss audio lol.. i think i am going to buy 4 of the Phantom 15'' off audio savings for $275 for 4 of them!!! i would never buy boss audio but at this time i think i just mite have to, and just sell them when i get good subs in a few months. what other subs would
be good at the $75 to $100 price for 15s? pic of my setup..... -
so im looking at crunchWith that kind of budget maybe see if you can find some Infinity Reference comps.
so do i look for 6 / 3/4 '' with a 6 1/2 adapter plates because all the stuff i see does not show what the plates are or the size of them?With that kind of budget maybe see if you can find some Infinity Reference comps.
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i just put a new JVC -KD s28 head unit in, puts out 20rms x 4 i think! he is not in to car audio at all he just want to put new stuff in because the stock is pop' d . know of a cheap set of components. with the adapter plates. looking to spend $ 50 like i said he dont want some crazy shit just something that works good.Also, are these being run off of the stock head unit in the truck? He's not going to get any serious midbass off of factory head unit power. Get a nice set of mids and highs that have a good frequency response down low, like 45 Hz and up.
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so i just put in a new cdplayer for a friend, now he wants to put in new speakers in the front doors. driver side speakers does not work but the tweeter does...and pass side door shit is shot. i think its a 6 3/4'' and a 1'' tweeter but not sure, i have not pulled door panels yet.. . just wanted to see if some one know's off hand. its a GMC sierra 1500 z71 ext cab. when i look online all i can find is that its a 6 1/2 speaker but does not say it has a tweeter? and then some other sites say its a 6 3/4'' speaker... i just want to pull out the old stuff and screw in the new and fit the way they should. not going for top of the line just something that work good. the guy dont want subs or shit like that.
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There most be a reason why the transistors are blown. Do you have capabilities of trouble shooting and tracing damaged components?
And depending on what section of the amp the FETs are in, there can also be damaged CAPs or Resistors
well this amp was hooked up power to ground , ground to power... not from me. DVM'd @ 25% of the fits are working.. so it just dont hit like it should... i have now picked up a twin to this amp so i dont need to fix this 1 but if i could why not.
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so i was thinking... i have a amp that is only runing on 25% of the mosfits, all the others are dead , i never have replaced mosfits before but want to give it a shot . not sure on how hard this will be to do or what it was run for cash. some one out there done this before? and know were to buy mosfits?
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all my amps i have had i dont use the bass remote, to me i fell like i get just a hair more out of my amp and not the distorted sound when i dont use them. but that just me!not really the bass remote makes it sound more distorted but it gives it a little more bang
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my name is shad! N- E way, dont u still have the same power out of your amps as when u dont use a bass remote? i never have heard that before. does a bass remote give u more out of your amps. lol
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well man that sub u have is 600 watts and your amp @ 2ohm is 1200watts so u will pop that 15 fast... that would be if your sub is a dvc 4this guy, he's going to blow some shit up.
How ?
if your sub is a dvc 2 you can run the sub @ 1ohm on the amp but that's 1700 watts on that sub thats 600watts lol
if your sub is a dvc 4ohm you can put the + from on side of the sub to the other side on the + and same with the - to make it a 2OHM on your amp, if you run the + on one side to the - on the other side of the sub will be a 8ohm sub.
now if its a dvc 2ohm sub + from one side to the other side same with - with make it a 1ohm on your amp..... and if u run + to - on the other side of the sub u will get a 4 ohm on your amp.
got it? u need a a dvc 2ohm sub so that u can run it @ 4ohm that way u dont pop the sub by over powering.
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i have i phone 4 s and my HU will not read it on the usb, i never have tryed the headphone jack.does everyone use ipods now to play in their HU?
u think a port box will make a big sound difference. i had a re audio srx 12 on 1k in a port box and it out hit this pioneer sub... and the pioneer looks like it should out do the re sub... what u all think
be good at the $75 to $100 price for 15s? pic of my setup.....
Re audio 12 inch srx weird ohm reading
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