Torquemaster69

ok.....I fixed my battery problem. Turns out it was my meter. I tried 2 other meters to make sure and everything read 12v. Thanks guys for all the input. I juts need to tube my system now....has alot of bass, but doesnt quite sond right at the moment

I cant remember the brand....but it is a digital one with the red crab claw things on the end

OK......I have searched the forum before posting this and have not found the info I need. I am running a dual battery set-up and both batteries are in the engine compartment. I have both batteries hooked up and when I test them with a volt meter it reads 24v for not even a half second then settles on 12.2v. I was wondering if I should be worried about it going to 24v in the first place or not worry about it because its just a short spike just from touching it to where I need to for testing it. Also, should I get a battery isolator? I still have the stock 120Amp alternator. Just so you guys know, I'm going from the main battery to the secondary battery, and the secondary battery to the amps. So basically, alternator is charging the main battery, main battery charging the secondary and secondary powering my amps. Please correct me if I'm wrong

ok....I have a viper alarm system and one day after getting my Nitro washed, my alarm quit working and my driver side power seat quit working. It worked immediately after the wash but once the seat was moved all the way back, a fuse popped. Easy enough, I replaced the burnt out fuse in the engine compartment but my alarm and seat still wont work. Is there a fuse within the alarm power lines that may have popped which in turn is keeping my seat from working? I really want to figure this out because I'm only 5'5 and my seat is stuck all the way back.

No you weren't, i only said that because people are trying to give you advice and trying to help you understand and you seem to be hard shelling it. When we say walls with subs and port forward are better performing its because that is the case no doubt about it. We want to help you get the most out of your setup because that is what we do with our own. The box with the different size chambers and the (what looks to be) tiny port is not doing your system justice. Your not being a dick, if you were you'd be very popular already. lol...its all good, the ports arent really all that small. I'm going to have to ask my buddy about the port sizes because he is the one that did the measurements for them. I really don't want to build a new box because I put so much time and effort into building this one....lol. If I am going to be doing any changes, I will most likely just attempt to take this one apart at certain points and rebuild from those points *Edit* I forgot to mention that I made this box also to be totally removable as one piece if I ever decide to get rid of the Nitro and I can sell the box itself

eh.....I mainly did it the way I did because I wanted to keep my back seats.. The Dodge Nitro's rear area isnt really that big and I went the bare minimum on the cubic foot but still wanted big sound. While I will be entering into SPL Comps.....it wont be an actual competition vehicle i fail to see how you couldnt keep your back seats if you turned the box around 180 degrees. it WILL perform better if you rebuild the box to make it an actual wall and if you have the correct amount of port area. I see....I don't know about building a new box though yet. Alittle too expensive for me right now...lol. I will try it when I have the funds

Interesting. My only advice is; don't be a dick. There is so much knowledge to be obtained from this forum and the people who inhabit it. If your a jerk they will reject you, if your nice you will be the next one of them. I was being a dick? I don't recall acting like one but if I was, I apologize.

eh.....I mainly did it the way I did because I wanted to keep my back seats.. The Dodge Nitro's rear area isnt really that big and I went the bare minimum on the cubic foot but still wanted big sound. While I will be entering into SPL Comps.....it wont be an actual competition vehicle

I can't remember the port measurements but the cubic foot is (Bottom set) 2.7 cubic feet (Top set) approximately 1.8 cubic feet.

I'll try it again the other way and test again. And the gap is there for a reason. I used to get stopped so many times by cops about my speaker box and when I modified for the gap, they quit bothering me

trust me, I feel more vibration, and feel it in my ears more faced that way. I tested both directions before I put those side panels on. I can't explain it either. My first thought was just as others stated "face subs forward". It didnt quite sound right, so I flipped it and it felt like it got louder. Besides, its not a true wall..lol

ROFL....I've been told by a few people that it looks like the back end of a space shuttle.

I see what you mean, but the box was made to face this way. I have tested the other way and it seems to be louder the way it is set up now I know it seems kinda odd, but trust me, it definitaly works. I havent gotten it tested yet. but I will soon before the competitions start

I must dense or something...either that or I'm tired. what do you mean by "turn it around"?

hey guys, just wanted to show off what I have. Its my first ever build. Hope you guys enjoy http://s1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/Torquemaster69/

I have a similar question. Would 2 Yellow Top Optimas be good enough for two 2600 watt 2 channel amps with a stock alternator?