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nickers

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Posts posted by nickers

  4. high output porsche 911 alternator

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    hey guys

    my dad has a 1979 porsche 911 sc and is putting a system in it, well already has a system, and as i have become more proficient in the field than him i came to realize that in 1979 he probably has around a 60-90 amp alt, maybe even lower considering its a "performance" car. anyways i told he should probably look into that because his mids and high amps and all his comforts are probably more than what the alternator does comfortably. does anyone know a company that manufactures a high output alternator for this model of car?

    thanks

  6. First Real Build need overlook and comments.

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    yes you are correct.itll act the same was as if you just ran the amp remote leads directly to the amps however,it allows you to use the amp remote lead wire to power multiple amps without harming anything in the head unit. once the head unit is powered on (when car is started) power that is sent through the wire will energize the relay and the power from the battery will go to the amps, instead of power from the head unit. the remote wires are rated anywhere from 250ma-500ma, 3 amps will consume that much, and may draw to much current, damaging the REM output circuit , which may cause the HU to no longer have any output from the remote lead. are the words remote lead starting to sound stupid to you because they are to me, god damn, anyways. you may not be running 3 or more amps but you may run a processor or equalizer or crossover which all use the remote. even if your not using those its still a good idea to run a relay just to be safe, then its done and you don't have to worry about it if you decide to put any more amps/processors or what haveyou.

    sorry i just re read your post and all that i said may not have been needed,cause i think you get it. but dammit i wrote it so its being posted

  7. First Real Build need overlook and comments.

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    you need a relay so you don't burn up the remote lead on you HU. its basically a switch with the remote lead being the trigger and power from the battery supplying the juice to the remotes on the amp. when you turn on your HU it'll trigger the "switch" in the relay causing the power from the 12v connection to go through to the amps remote.

    get a 5 pin remote and wire it:

    pin 30 to a 12v connection (battery)fuse it around 5 amps or lower.

    pin 85 to the decks remote lead

    pin 86 to ground

    pin 87 output to amp remotes

    pin 87a is not used

    accessoryrelaywiring.png

    relay pins are marked so that makes it easier. better to be safe than sorry, don't want to burn anything up on your head unit.

    and as the the ohm load on your amp. how many subs do you wanna run? if you wanna run 2 at 1 ohm get some dual 4 ohm subs and run coils and subs in parallel, if you wanna run one at 1 ohm get a dual 2 ohm and run the voice coils in parallel

    dont mean to confuse just wanting to help.

  8. First Real Build need overlook and comments.

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    you could look here to figure out how to wire the relay, however the diagram is wrong and you need to listen to the people who suggest the 87 pin for output.

    to answer the bass knob question most mono blocks come with one so no worries there.

    another thing is big 3!

    lastly you must know getting into car audio is a path to the dark side, its addicting, have fun.

  9. so torn

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    sub frame connectors would come before that stage. first i have to adjust the entire front clip because apparently you can make it so the frame is out of alignment if your not paying attention. and also the rad support can be out of alignment which puts your fenders out of alignment which then makes the hood and hoodsprings near impossible to adjust properly. just a series of events but its not that big of a deal its out by a centimeter.

  10. so torn

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    the car has the black front end now lets just say my friend stopped right in front of me while i was pulling out of my parking spot.

    and as the the suspension and bushings upgrade, the entire front end has all new bolts and bushings, me and my pops had to replace the subframe so went with all new parts, and even got some pretty new QA1 adjustable ride height coil overs. the back end however is a different story, its old and bushings are worn, when i add more power i need to overhaul the rear end with maybe a 4 link, and put subframe connectors in to stop body flex. its a t-top car so it is naturally the weaker body style.

  16. so torn

    in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.

    Posted

    i was thinking stick with performance BUT replace interior/exterior parts with lighter ones maybe fiberglass like hood and deck lid, rear bumper and whatever else all so that it offsets the weight i add with audio :good:

    i was thinking of finding a nice bored big block 454 and it could be like the 1970-73 camaro ss's but kind of like the disgruntled step child because of the plastic front and rear.

  25. stiffening door panels

    in Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc

    Posted

    oh ive done alot to the car im pretty comfortable doing just about anything. im glassing the doors for 2 8 inchers. and that will be retarded if i dont do something to stiffen up the panel itself because im mounting the ring structure too it. and the reason im using the original panel is because of the door window seal at the top.

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