Monergist

That's $144 (18 sheets) plus shipping. Probably around $165-$170, total. Paypal me at [email protected] when you're ready.

The better deal is the 80 square feet for $350. That way I cover shipping and it's already conveniently packed, but if I open it, you guys will have to pay for shipping.. @Bump4life - 15 square feet wil be $72 plus shipping. You're looking at around $90 to $100. @Keltan Solorio - 50 square feet will be $240 plus shipping. Don't know how much that will cost to ship, but you're looking at $275 ballpark. Price is $8 per sheet if you buy individually.

How many sheets do you need?

Sorry about that. Didn't see a rule that forbid external links; and I never said I don't want people to buy from my ebay auction. I would prefer to go through Paypal, but I am aware of those who are skeptical about such a transacation, so I left the eBay option open. Thanks for the information, either way.

$350 shipeed vis Fedex. Or $8 per sheet (one sheet = 1.67 square feet). Minimum purchase of five sheets is required if bought individually. Goes for $435 if you live in California and purchase online; and $400 if you purchase online from out of state. One of my doors; Thanks!

Congrats. I like the Camero, just not that specific Dub Floater rim. And I'd probably get a rim two inches smaller on that car, also. But my favorite was the Lac.

You're right, the person with the Hertz built on that center hump had major SPL (Warhorse with 2 SMD 18s). Kick panels were actually my last resort, but I might try it.

What would you do? My factory door setup has the speakers placed off axis; I'm adding another component system, so would you.. Place the second 6.5 in the door, in this open spot to the left; with the tweeter in the A-pillar? (said tweeter placement is not definite); Or would you build a box for the new component system and mount it in this center column; Kinda like my boy Total Mayhem has in his Tahoe; Or would you do kick panels? The plus to simply making a baffle for that open spot in my door is less money, and simple installation. The negative to placing the mid bass driver there is it's too close to the seat. The plus to the center column setup is the staging and imaging would be illuminated when combined with my current setup. The negative is simply the time I'll have to take to build a box (and the extra money). I guess the same could be said for kick panels.. The placement that I choose must also accommodate for a mid range speaker in the near future.. So, what's your opinion?

What's the link to your build thread? Or a picture of your battery mount? I liked TheyDontWantMusic's battery mount, also.

Nathan said the same thing about doing a load test. He also said that the internals are no longer pressurized so it might not last. New wire and terminals on the way, but new battery wont be in the making for a few weeks..

The shop only carries Kinetik, but I wanted a D3100. They convinced me to try the Kinetik, and since I didn't have the material to install it, they put it in. I got my D3100 a week later, and I brought my car back to them so they could take their battery back, and they threw the D3100 in for me while they were at it. There was nothing to learn from since nothing had happened while I had the Kinetik. And again, I never took the time to think about it, so I'm just as retarded as the shop.. Then again, I can understand where they might have got the concept, since a lot of vehicles use a metal bar to secure the main battery under the hood. Can't argue with that. The owner wasn't at the shop yesterday, so I'll check back today. I also sent my 2 channel in for repair. Tap no longer does car audio so we had to ship it out. Battery is still holding a charge, and there aren't any leaks. I emailed Nathan about it. I'll let you guys know what he says. I might find a way to cover the melted plastic. The more I looked at it today, it's actually not all that bad.

You're right. I'll go back up there after I leave Tap. Hopefully we can get it all situated without any contention.

Oh, okay. Keep us posted.

Well, just don't tell them you took it apart..haha. I did the same thing with my son's Leap Frog when the screen went out. Got the screen back on after wiping everything down and cleaning insert prongs, but then the touch screen aspect stopped working.

I doubt it. I wish you were close by; we could take the screen out of mine and put it in yours to make sure it's really the issue.

I'd say defective screen. And I don't think the light would work if the screen fuse was blown.

That's what it looked like the first time I came to have a second battery installed. Then they switched it to the XS Power. Funny though.. Now that I look at this picture, I'm noticing how the power wire strands are exposed near the lace (cotton and easily flammable) handle AND metal rod. Good thing that battery didn't catch fire; I would've had a hard time trying to rip those amps out!

haha.. I decided to go thought provoking with my interests. As for my substage, I've been vacillating the past few months. My friend let me use his Mcintosh 12 and an old school Audison VR amp and it compliments my system very well, but I built my electrical for something more heavy hitting. I put my other friend's 13w7 in and it was cool, but if I decide to go that route, I'd get an Audison Voce 12, not a JL. Maybe this burnt battery incident is a sign to forget about the SPL aspect I was building my electrical for..lol.

I called XS Power about a new case, and Byron told me no. He also said to give it a few days and see if any liquid leaks out of it and keep monitoring the voltage. I'm still 12.8 strong, but he said it might die soon if there are any punctures. The vents that he mentioned are melted on one side; I'll probably get rid of it anyway, even if it does hold a charge. It's ugly now. Went to the shop (it's a local shop and I'm pretty cool with the owner and technicians). The owner was cool about it. He'll give me whatever I need to recoup. Might even pay for my amp repair. I know he'll probably offer me a Kinetik battery if this one dies, but he's had that HC2400 sitting there since forever, plus it's not equivalent to the D31.. My Audison rep uses a repair shop called Tap Electronics. It's right up the street in Lakewood. I'm going there in the morning. After I kept recounting the events that occurred yesterday, it struck me that the amp had actually cut off before the gardener got water on it. And today, I noticed that my remote wire is nonfunctional for some odd reason. Anyway, I can figure the remote wire part out, but I'm still confounded as to how the amp powers on and simultaneously both channels are dead.

Most guys new to car audio (including myself) go out and install a bunch of stereo equipment, then wonder why their headlights are dimming when the bass hits, or why the bass only hits hard for 3 minutes then starts sounding weak, or why their car just shuts off when the bass drops (lol.. that's what happened to me). So tell us everything you plan to put in there and we'll advise you on your electrical. Then sell your wagon to dwright and you'll be good.

Put it back on the charger. And see if there's a way to reset it. I can't seem to find my manual..

I prefer upgrading all my electrical before starting a new build.

And I should've known better; letting them do it and not thinking twice about it. I do my own installs but I didn't have the material to mount the battery, so i had to go to the shop. They usually do good, but not a lot of people come to get multiple batteries installed. It was a janky set up from jump, but I didn't pay it any mind for some reason, and paid the price.

Would it still power on with a fried board or blown resistors? I guess they thought if they wrapped the metal in electrical tape it would be okay.. It is peculiar that the tape melted today, though. The positive post must've been very hot. But my ground is good, so I don't know why it would heat up like that. The amp wasn't soaked, but most of the water landed on the speaker terminals. Definitely gonna meter everything in a few days when it's completely dry.

Battery caught fire today. The shop that installed it used metal rods across the top to secure it and one of them touched the positive post while I was driving. I pulled over in search for water or a fire extinguisher. I shouted to a nearby gardener to find some water, and ran inside a Carl's Jr. for some. By the time I got back the gardener had sprayed my trunk down and got water all over my amplifiers (which i had yanked out before I ran inside the Carl's Jr.. Good news: 1. The battery reads 13v, so it seems functional. Just gotta call XS Power in the morning and see about a new case. 2. 4-Channel is fine. Bad news: 1. My 2 channel wouldn't power on at first. But when I connected it to my friend's car, it came on. I'm not getting any sound, though. 2. Trunk carpet looks awful. My Audison rep told me to open it up and let it dry for 24 hours then get back to him. He has a repair shop for me, just in case. Is there anything in particular I can look at in terms of channel malfunctions?