[Quick Question...]

I don't understand what "view topics without searching" means. You generally have to search either way.

I usually find old topics through Google. You can also watch topics and keep them in your email inbox for easy reference.

[Mounting just the internals ???]

It'll be fine. The only place manuals usually specify not to install amplifiers is under the hood. You could think of your install as being similar to a CPU; it'll have a shell and a fan and you'll have to clean the dust off it every 6 months or so.

[shuriken sk-bt8785dt or sk-bt60?]

Looks like the Group 34 they make (bt8785dt) is made for under the hood. But I'd go with the BT60. It has more amp hours, higher cranking amps, and it's lighter and cheaper. I don't know if you need battery posts, but the BT878 comes with the posts while you'd have to purchase them separately for the BT60.

[What kind of system did you have]

First system back in high school (ca. 2000):

Alpine CDA-7894

Infinity Perfect Coaxials

5 sets of Cuspid Tweeters..lol. (y'all probably know nothin' about those)

My pop's 8" Bazooka bass tube (connected to the 6x9 wires since I didn't have an amp..haha) (we also used to install huge house speakers in our trunks..)

After graduation:

Same HU and Coaxials

Sony XM-404EQX 4 Channel

Performance Teknique 800 Watt Amp

2 12" Orion HCCAs

2003:

Same HU and Coaxials

Rockford 1500bd

2 12" Rockford Power Hx2s

Late 2003:

Same everything but upgraded to a T2000.1bd.

Ended up selling everything in '04.

[set my gains with o-scope but...]

but as soon as I put in a hard rock I get no bass even with bass boost turned all the way up which easily clips the 50hz tone.

This is exactly what I thought would happen when tuning with an oscilloscope. I like the way my system sounds now (all music hits hard, no matter the genre), but I'm also afraid of clipping and damaging my subs..

I tuned my system by ear (I basically set my line driver to about 9v and the eq gain about 3/4 and turned the frequencies until I heard distortion), but that seems to be the foolish way to go about setting amp gains now-a-days (I miss the good ole days when I was an ignorant teen who just threw a system together and went on my way caring less about technicalities).

I'm either going to purchase an o-scope or go to a shop, but I'd be pretty bummed if afterward the music didn't hit as hard.. But at the same time, I can smell my subs after about 15-30 minutes of continuous play so I guess I have no choice..

[Added an Amp and Don't Hear Any Supstantial Difference...]

Yep, voltage dropped to 11.9 at high volumes.

I haven't done my big 3 upgrade so I'll do that in the morning. I'll probably add a Kinetik 3800 next week if the big 3 isn't enough.

I was keeping my DieHard for the cars electrical components (plus it's brand new; didn't want it to go to waste) and using my Kinetik 2400 for all my audio equipment. Should I remove the DieHard, put the 2400 under the hood and add a 3800 to the trunk, or keep the DieHard and add a 3800 with the 2400 in the trunk?

[Added an Amp and Don't Hear Any Supstantial Difference...]

You guys are probably right. I'll check the voltage when I get off from work. My alternator is 220 amps but it's about 8 years old.

Would it be more efficient to strap the amps or purchase dual 2 ohm subs? I got a guy willing to sell me his two 2 ohm Orions for $500.

I bought the additional amp from a guy who's running two 2500D amps to his Digital Design 15s. He only has 1 2400 kinetik and he didn't have any problems. I was thinking I would get indicators (flickering interior lights; dimming head lighters, etc) if my electrical was inadequate..

[Added an Amp and Don't Hear Any Supstantial Difference...]

I wouldn't doubt it, since adding amps has a tendency to increase impedance rise.

Well, the impedance rose to 2 ohms, and the amp puts out 1700 at 2 ohms. With 1 amp at 1 ohm the 2 subs powered at 1250 a piece. You would think the increase in power (450 watts) would increase SPL, but it didn't.

[Added an Amp and Don't Hear Any Supstantial Difference...]

This isn't to uncommon,

When we did the first wall with the 2500 15s and at first only 2 M3s, did a 50.5 or something like that consecutively, added 2 more M3s and the score stayed the same, .... Until we dropped th ohm load to .25 each.

Then gained 3 DBs. Do you have the old silver orions?

If so Iwouldn't hesitate to strap at 1

ohm. But be sure you got some batteries to back it up.

Yes, I have the old silver Orions. Two Rockford 2500bdcp's would really come in handy right about now, since they put out 2500 regardless of the 1 or 2 ohm load.

I found a guy selling 2 ohm Orions. What exactly were you suggesting when you said "strap at 1 ohm"?

Funny you brought up batteries.. I was searching for XS power back when I started my system but couldn't find any in my area. Ended up going with Kinetik.

[Added an Amp and Don't Hear Any Supstantial Difference...]

My original set-up was 1 Orion 2500D with 2 dual 4 ohm HCCA 12s. I decided to add another 2500D today but these amps only put out 1700 at 2 ohms. Now I have to switch my dual 4s for dual 2s. Do you guys think there should have been a substantial difference between the two set-ups, though? I'd go so far as to say it hit harder with the 1 amp!

I also added an Audio Control EQS. For the most part I think it does bring out quality sound from the coaxials, even though I haven't tuned it with an RTA yet, but as for the sub frequency adjustments, I'm thinking it's actually impeding the loudness. What would you guys do? I'm thinking of just using the EQS for the midrange and highs and bypassing the sub outlets.. (There's also feedback (a new development) coming from my coaxials ever since I connected that EQS. My grounds are good, but I used some old (but high quality) RCAs.)