qcbangin
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Posts posted by qcbangin
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yes it is. an AQ setup has been a dream of mine for awhile. that dream is slowly coming to reality. AQ is an awesome brand just in itself. they're not overpriced, and they're defenitely underrated!
The AQ 2200 is an awesome amp. Im actually going to run 2 of these in my civic once i rebuild it.
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i didn't think so either, but this is my first "real" sub. i have always had to run generic brands, and am so excited about getting this sub. it's also my first 18! going to be ran in the trunk of a chrysler lhs. took awhile to save up the money for this sub, and don't want anything ruining it. and yes, i am going to run it 2ohms. amp claims 2500rms at 2ohm, but that is doubtful too. going to start saving again to get an AQ2200. can't wait! thanks fopr the help guys.
I doubt you will blow it with that amp. Just make absolutely sure your not sending it a clipped signal. You also wont be able to run that amp at 1 ohm since you ordered a dual 1 ohm sub. It will have to run at 2 ohms or .5 ohms.
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i was just wondering if anyone has had experience with AQ hdc3 18's? just wondering about there power handling. i seen on youtube people pushing them with 2000rms+. can these subs handle that kind of power daily? i just ordered one with dual 1ohm coils. my amp claims to push 3200rms at 1ohm. i don't believe it cause it is a power acoustik BAMF5500. not the best amp, but it does it's job. just want to make sure i'm not going to blow this sub as soon as i power it up.
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how much chipped to 61265?
Bump, will also trade for sa-12s.
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yes i've done that. the only problem i came across with the wiring is when i first got them. i wired them using the jl wiring diagram and couldn't get them to drop to 1.33ohms. lowest i got them was 2ohms. they are all dual 4ohm. i had to end up wiring 2 and 2 and 2 into the amp
Well go through and check every single coil with the DMM make sure they're all reading around whatever ohms they are. Like if its a 4 ohm sub it will not be exact it might read 3.8,3.9,4.0,4.1,4.2 you get the idea. You need to look for ir either not reading an ohm load or jumping numbers( like whole digits not points) That way you will know they all are working.
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how will i know if any are acting as a passive radiator? i have checked and double checked all wires and connections. my voltage is bottoming out at about 14.1volts on deep bass notes. not 100% sure my gains are set correctly, so not sure if they're clipping. can't hear any audible distortion, though
Have you checked every speaker and coils? If not you might want to just to make sure none are acting as a passive radiator. Have you checked all your wires? To make sure theres no bad/loose connections. Just trying to trouble shoot.
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yes.
You have around 11in^2 of port area per foot. You might want a little more if possible, but that shouldnt cause your problem that your having now.... Do you have a DMM?
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the box dimensions are 32"D X 28"W X 16.25"H. port is 10"H X 7"W X 14.25"L.
What's the specs on the box? As in port size and length. And box dimensions.
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so just rebuild my box for them to all fire up and that should fix my problem? does anyone think the airspace could cause another problem after i do that? asking cuz i know 6 10's moves more air than 2 15's
out of phase?
might have to do with 3 firing up and 3 firing back (being in a trunk), thats prolly where your cancelation is coming from
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sorry, i can't get pics right now, but the subs are 3 firing up and 3 firing back. i was just outside playing it, and a few of the subs were getting hot and a few were staying cool. what could cause that?
i had this once. had to do with vortex theory
essentially with the trunk open the subs had more air to move and created a louder score. however this was because of a mistake of mine and it probably would have been louder if i had done the box correctly
show me how everything is setup in your trunk
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i'm running 6 10's in a 6cube ported box in the trunk of a chrysler LHS. the trunk is a total of about 11-12ubes. box is ported through rear seat armrest. the problem i'm having is that when i play music there isn't as much bass as there should be, but when i open my trunk, i gain alot. i'm a noob so i'm not sure what could be causing this. could it be that there isn't enough airspace in the trunk for the 6 10's, or somethig else? i was running 2 15's in a 9cube ported through the armrest and it hit harder when the trunk was closed, that's why i'm not sure if the airspace is a problem. please help with this problem. thanks
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thanks everyone for your input. it's much appreciated. i'm a noob, this is only my second build, so defenitely need all the help i can get.
You don't have to, when I did this to mine I did and I seen a bit of improvement to bass to the ear, don't know about the actual numbers. When you switch them, just listen to some music and then switch it and see which you want, it doesn't really matter. All that does is just flip the Terminals so its neg to pos and vise versa instead of it being normal.
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one more question...would i have to set my decks subwoofer phase to reverse?
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i'm running them in a ported box. it's going to be ported directly into the cabin through back seat armrest. will they move the same amount of air? oh, and this is going to be in a trunk, but i have 13cubes of trunk space.
It will affect your tuning regardless out how your box is made because it in turn changes some type of displacement. If it's a ported box it won't have to much of an effect on cooling, although I think they would get less, because if they where in a box they get a lot of air movement. If it's in a sealed box they would get cooled better because they are outside the box and exposed to actual air then the same air pressure and heat or cold gain from the surrounding temperature.
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thanks for the input guys. i think i'm going to go ahead and run inverted.
Inverting subs will change your box's internal volume, thus affecting your tuning (assuming your box is ported) and it will also keep your subs cooler.
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does anyone know what the difference is between having subs inverted, and having them normal? i'm going to be running 6 10's, and was just wondering what the difference, if any, there is. will it be louder? would it hurt scores at all? never heard inverted subs, so figure i would ask the experts. thanks guys!
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i appreciate the help. i'm going to try the rockford 3 d4 and see what happens.
I don't need to see the wiring diagram you're referring to. As simple as you can keep it in you head, is the best way to do it. That's why I suggest doing 3 and 3 so you can keep everything coherent while youre doing it. Try to go to the12volt.com or rockford fosgate's site and select 3 D4 for the option.
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i'm using the wiring diagram from jl audio. have you seen that diagram? should i wire three and three, then they all meet at the amp?
not sure if i'm posting in the correct forum...i'm trying to wire 6 dual 4ohm 10's to a 1.33ohm load. wiring them in series/parallel...problem is i can't seem to get it right. i've followed 4 different diagrams and still can't get it right. i've got all the subs going, but it's reading 5.1ohm at the amp. what could my problem be? i've got my + to the amp coming off sub #1 and - coming from sub #4.
Youve got the wrong coils tied together. You need to have the postive from one coil to the negative on the other coil. Run the positives from 3 subs out and 3 negatives out. Do the same on the other three subs and when they meet the amp(if its a mono) they will have a 1.33 load. Each set of three will bring 2.67 ohms to the party.
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not sure if i'm posting in the correct forum...i'm trying to wire 6 dual 4ohm 10's to a 1.33ohm load. wiring them in series/parallel...problem is i can't seem to get it right. i've followed 4 different diagrams and still can't get it right. i've got all the subs going, but it's reading 5.1ohm at the amp. what could my problem be? i've got my + to the amp coming off sub #1 and - coming from sub #4.
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thanks for the clarification. as you can see in video, backseat is still completely functional so it is a "trunk car" mini hairtrick
just checking, cuz i don't want to mislead people into believing it's a true "trunk car" if it isn't. can anyone clarify this?
It wasn't really directed at you, it was just in general. IMO a trunk car would mean all the bass is in the trunk but of course what do I know lol.
if backseats fold up and are still fully usable then it's a trunk car in USACi.
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just checking, cuz i don't want to mislead people into believing it's a true "trunk car" if it isn't. can anyone clarify this?
It wasn't really directed at you, it was just in general. IMO a trunk car would mean all the bass is in the trunk but of course what do I know lol.
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the way i've understood it, a "trunk car" is when all equipment is in trunk, and back seat is usable. everything in my car is in the trunk. my port doesn't even extend into the cabin. am i wrong on this?
how is it a "trunk car" if the box is sealed off from the trunk so its in the cabin lol
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not yet. just got it all sealed off today and had to get a video immediately. hopefully i'll get some friday.
cool man any numbers?
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thanks for the help
AQ hdc3 18" power handling
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i've never had the opportunity to hear AQ in person, but just seeing the damage they do on youtube, and the price tags got me on the bandwagon. where i live isn't real big on the system scene. and the ones that are into systems all run big box store brands. i can't wait to get it, put the AQ on my window, and watch it "wave" to everyone on the street lol. AQ ftmfw!