trjohnst
-
Posts
236 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Videos
Posts posted by trjohnst
-
-
This is why I am so confused, Speedball1978 said to put them on the opposite side and then I am told to put them on the same side.
But what you are saying is the 9.5 inches should be from the flare (outside of box) to the end of the tube (inside of the box). If it is done this way, then I have about a 10.2" long port.
So, my plan is to put them beside each other (about 1/2 inch apart) on the same side as the sub. So there will be 2 ports on the left of the sub (maybe a inch beside the sub).
I sanded the end of the port where I cut the tube in half, but I think sanding the inside is unnecessary because it would cause air flow friction.
-
How much port area would I need with 2 4inch ports? I used psp-inc.com's calculator and found 9.5 inches. How long would my 2 4inch ports need to be?
-
flanges won't change the sound, it will probably change your tune...just use the flange on one end to mount to the box but here's a little secret, flare up the opposite ends using a torch or heat gun.. using a metal bowl and wala you'll have aero ports lol
I might be able to do that, maybe boil the pipe and try shoving a bowl or something inside of it to flare it out. Does 2 4inch diameter ports at about 9.5inches sound sufficient for a good box at 4.77 ft^3?
-
ok guess i'll explain one last time have them facing the same with the sub, but furtherest away from the sub.. hopefully you can understand it this time around because i already mentioned to you once already if you're too close to the ports, you're gonna have unloading issues
Ok, sounds good. I just wanted to make sure before I do this since I have heard several different answers to my question. My ports are a tad bit shorter than 9.5 inches long and that is from where the port extrudes the wood inside the box. Since it is 4.77 cubic feet in volume, this should tune me around 34hz. Would it make a difference if I put a flange on both ports on the inside of the box?
-
have them facing the same way with the subs
Since my sub is either gunna be on the far right or left. Which side should they be on? Close to the sub or on the opposite side? How many inches from the sub if I put the ports on the same side?
-
I already built my own as seen in the pictures. I just need to know where to put them and on what part of the box to put them.
-
i would place the ports furtherest away from the sub, if they're too close you'll have unloading issues
Ive been told everything, put them closest to the sub on the same side where the sub will be or put them on the opposite side from the sub. But since the sub is facing the driver, do I put the port on top of the box (facing trunk top) or on the side (facing quarter panel) or facing towards the driver? I tried to buy some flared ports, they were 14$ a piece on amazon plus $5 shipping
-
OH, you are asking where on the box to cut the holes for the port? I have played around with ports forward and backward, slots and aeros, I have had the best luck with aero ports forward. I have the ports between the subs, but someone recently told me to move the ports to one side and I should see a gain. I think i will leave them centered. Everyone says flaring the ports inside and out will give you a noticeable gain. I am in the process of making my own flares, and hopefully in the next week or two will know if it does make a difference.
No I was trying to figure out where to cut the port length at. Where to I start measuring the length at? Since the wood is 3/4 inch, do I take that into consideration when I am making the length for the port? Does it need to be 9 inches starting at where the port extrudes the wood?
But also where should I put my ports? Since my sub is off centered, on the left or right, so I put my ports on the side of the box, top, back (facing trunk)????????
-
Tuning around 35hz, but I was told to put them on the same side (I guess side or top of box) and close to each other. The calculator you gave me was the one I used to cut my length. So you are saying, I need a flare on the outside (the one that I screw onto the box) and a flare on the inside (where it will be inside the box)?
-
I know there is someone in here who can tell me what the proper length would be for a 4.77 cubic foot (in volume) of a sealed box for 2 4inch flared internal ports.
-
Anybody have any suggestions?
-
So I am building my own 4inch ports for my 4.77 cubic foot box (inside volume). I have 2 4inch ports around 10inches long but I dont know where to start the length and where to end. I assume I start the 10inches where the port will extrude the wood on the inside of the box and will end at the right length and just saw it off. I need to know where The last question is do I put a flare on the end of the tube in the inside or not? Im not sure if on the inside of the box, at the end of the port tube, if I put a flare on it or not. Im guessing I dont...
PS I am running 1 AQ HDC3 15 in a sealed 4.77 ft^3 box (will be ported, just have to finish this build.
Anyways, I cut my ports. Any feedback is welcomed. I sealed the coupler and pipe together. The sub will be off-centered, so I GUESS the ports will go on the same side of the sub, except on the side of the box. BUT I dont know if the side is best, or the top of the box facing the top of the trunk. Any feedback will help
-
You would just measure the port itself.
Starting at the end of the flange? So that would be from the outside of the box pretty much. Would it matter which side of the box to put it on since the 15 would not be on the center, either left or right, so where would I put the ports? Same side as the sub or opposite side?
-
The flared end would stay outside the box if the ports are going to be internal but if they will be external then the flared side would be inside the box. Seal it real good too
Where do I start measuring the 10.35 inches at? Where it actually exits the wood on the inside?
-
So I guess I can do 2 4" flanged ports, but do i leave the flange on it inside the box or not? or does it depend? And I'm hoping this will make a big difference in SPL
-
So why is it that more ports need longer lengths?
-
Also, if I add the 2 4inch ports at 9" length, do I keep the flare in the inside or take it off, having a straight pipe with no flare in the inside of the box? Also, since I can only put the ports 1 way, on the side because the box is about 30 inches long, where do I start to measure the 9" at?
-
Yes, this is gross dimensions, only considering about half the thickness of the wood, which is 3/4 inch. Thats what I am trying to run, a single 15. Thats why I was seeing if patching over the other hole, and using one 15 with 2 4" ports at 9" length would be best.
-
You mean gross as in with the subwoofer in it? Sub has a depth of 8.875", so....
-
Ok, so I have a 5.87 ft^3 box for the trunk of my car and I just bought 2 AQ HDC3 copper 15's. The box is for 2 15's and is sealed. I am trying to get the best out of this box and make it the loudest possible. I will run 2 JL 500/1 for 1 HDC3. Im thinking that I will cover the extra hole on the box from the outside, use 1 15, and try to add some port tubes. I know nothing about how to use port tubes and how to calculate the diameter and length and where to put them. My box is 20.5" deep, 32.5" wide, and 15.5" tall. I was told somewhere in the range of adding 2 4" port tubes beside each other with length of 19", but the only place I could put these would be on the side of the box. So, I need some help on this box re-build with anyone who has ran these AQ HDC3 15's!!!
-
O and make sure that the ports arent getting suffucated try and leave atleast 5" of clearance to the wall theyre facing( it shouldnt be a prob if the ports are on the side).
Well I tried flipping my box around and having the subs facing the back of the car, it didnt make them louder but made them not as loud. The box is squeezed in there so theres not that much room for air to flow into the cabin of the car so thats why I think they're louder facing the driver. I'll probably buy some 9" ports and put their holes on the opposite side, ports facing the back. Ill put 2 ports, one ontop of the other, 9 inches long.
-
Alright with 2 4" straight ports the lenght would need to be 8.132" long and 2 4" flared ports would be 9.132 long thats tuned to 35hz with 5 cuft for the box. Btw 35hz will kill the lows with these subs! I have 2 hdc312s in my trunk rite now tuned to 35hz and murder the lows
So your saying buy 2 4" flared port tubes, put them on the same side, and each one at length of about 8 inches long?
-
Is it a trunk car? If so face the sub backwards unless you completly seal it off
Yea its a trunk; Honda Accord. If I get or make a port, how long do I make it? So once it goes through, how far from the opposite side should it stop, or should it go through it so it has 2 ports, 1 on each side?
-
But ask here, or calculate port length right !
Use your 2 JL for one 15". Sell the other(s?). Or sell them and get another amp (Audioque, DC, Crescendo, Sundown, RF,...). You could make some good money on these JLs, and get a 2000-2500 watts amp.
Ok, so I shouldnt have a problem doing that, except deciding if I cover it from the outside or inside; ill probably cover it from the outside. Do any of you know where to get an aeroport and how large it should be?
I found this one
But dont know how long it will be and where to put it. On the top (where it will face roof of trunk), or side (facing side panels) or back (facing rear of trunk) where it will be inside the box inbetween the subs.
I was also thinking about if I should switch my box around, making it face the back of my trunk so that the air pocket will be behind the seat, therefore making it louder. Any suggestions?
Port length? Where to cut?
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
Here is the box, I will be covering 1 hole and running just 1 15.