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Posts posted by JustinWilson
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I am metering mine on the 22nd, can't wait...keep us informed on your numbers when you get them.
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Have you metered this setup?
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Plus you'd have the WOW factor of a 21" subwoofer, and it would kill the lows if the enclosure is right
Why would a 21 have anything to do with lows?
It is a stigma people have with bigger woofers, they assume the bigger the woofer, the louder lower notes get. While typically true it is for a completely different reason. Which is partially caused by mechanical advantage/disadvantage. Just enjoy bass!
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i liked the AQ's but i want to try something different now, they really didnt hit the lows as hard as i would of liked, i dont have enough air space for 2 18's in a proper box.
i think im over analyzing this anyway, its been like 5 months since ive had any bass, so to be honest even if the DP 21 is just as loud, i would still be impressed because to be honest i dont really remember how loud my old system was.
According to your max dimensions you have about 13^3ft of airspace not subtracting bracing, woofers, and porting. That is more than enough for 2 - Fi BL 18's which need between 5-10^3ft of airspace. I would say try and make it work. INSANE Cone area, or go with the DP 21 as I am a fan of them.
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Do a wall with 2 Fi BL 18's They will match closely to your amp and get way loud, if you have funds for more power I would suggest pretty much any good brand 18's, DC, DD, AA, Fi, and more! But then your looking at atleast 1 of your amps for each of those woofers. Keep us informed.
P.S. Remember the enclosure matters far more than the woofer, I have seen the smallest woofer have tremendous output in the perfect enclosure. Design is key!
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I just feel that a tactile transducer like Rockford Fosgate's I-Beam would be a better idea, not because of brand or such. But rather the chair itself could be more comfortable and therefore have some appeal to consumers.
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In need of a good 1200 watt amp or 2200 watt or anything in between for decent price ranging around 300-400 thanks!
Got mine for sale
That's what I meant by mine but wasn't so forward
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I was gonna say RF T1500bdCP, I have one that makes 1921rms @1ohm. Comparable and within your price range.
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Then I could run 8 total 4ohm speakers on the front channels of the amp.
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A resistor is a no-no. Either power them at four ohms, or buy another set and wire them to two. no resistors.
Why not use resistors to achieve the correct ohm load?
My plan was to wire 4 - 4ohm speakers into a 1ohm load then use a resistor to bring the resistance up to 2ohms at the amplifier channel.
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Stay with them lol and do 1 speaker pur ch...
1 set per channel would work for the appropriate ohm load but it seems excessive on the power load lol...I was thinking of running 4 sets off the front channels with a inline resistor to get a 2ohm load and unsure for the rear channels...
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I am tempted to run 4 sets of T142 RF full range speakers up front. Can anyone make a better suggestion please.
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Hi there, I want to run a 1000 watt true rms front stage (Mids and Highs). I have a Rockford Fosgate T1000-4, T600-4, and T400-4. I only plan to use the T1000-4 for this build and the others only if needed.
Please give me suggestions for high quality mids/highs that can be wired into multiple 2ohm loads to match each channel on my amp. Another option is to suggest mids/highs that can be wired into 1ohm loads and I can match inline resistors to meet my 2ohm load requirement.
Thanks.
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Thats funny stuff
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Nice amp!
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what if your alt doesnt put out what the wire can handle, do you only fuse at the alts output or wires rating
Alt output if wire and battery can handle a surge at that amperage. I have a 320a alt with 300a fuses on my line between batts. But that is because of the wire capacity.
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Mine's fused, but there's really no need. Just my peace of mind.
x2 but if you fuse remember to fuse based on rating of your wire and your alt.
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Id probably clam it and do a center port but like ptcary said woofer choice, cubic footage allowed to build in, power u plan to use, daily or competition?
x2
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windows up firing forward sucks imo, I like back much much more
Why's that? Essentially, isn't that what a walled of car is? A box firing forward into the cabin, totally sealed off from the rear?
because you are trying to pressurize a huge ass area with generally 2 12s or 2 15s, which is pretty hard to do, now if there was a loading wall where the rear seats were, it wouldnt be an issue
firing forward sounds better, because of less rattle, but you need something to load off of, i tested this today, and yes, while it sounded cleaner, less rattle, it wasnt as loud as firing off the driver side and sub facing the drivers side...
I had my T2's firing in the cabin walled off and I liked it but it is WAY louder with my new box...if you did something like Thor though you will have different results...
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i wonder if I can get most of this stuff at my work (Home Depot)
I got all of my stuff there Not the cheapest location for fiberglass mat or cloth but works fine.
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yea you dont have to run a neg from the front. just carfully ground the batts to the frame. also "USE FUSES" 16" from the front bat to the back etc..
You are right that you dont have to, but If you plan on running a lot of power I recommend connecting batteries in parallel. Seriously, if you are going big, just do it right the first time.
I agree if everything is close together. Like that back portion after the Duralast. Also dont cheap out, buy some nice welding cable or power wire 1/0. Dont worry about making a knot with the wire. www.weldingsupply.com <-- good prices
Agreed, My amp grounds to my rear battery are no longer than 24 inches. Keep that in mind as well. I run Monster Cable 400series 1/0. Not as flexible as other brands but it is all copper. As Kian was saying flexibility isnt always the goal of buying wire.
Want to build 1000w 2ohm front stage
in Mid's and highs
Posted
Thanks for some options guys...