Str8Bumpin
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Posts posted by Str8Bumpin
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To make a good/perfect circle- just take a piece of cardboard, Put a nail in the center and put a hole half the distance of center, put another hole, use a pencil in 2nd hole and go around and around.
Perfect circle-- Measure twice-- Cut once
wut
x2
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basically when two dissimilar subs try to produce the same frequency there will be cancellations at certain frequencies
Please explain. . .
Obviously, what he's trying to say is when you play two different sized subwoofers that are hitting the same note, they will cancel eachother out, therefore you get no sound waves. Duhh...
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I can totally work......
It just needs to be crossed over correctly, so that the 15"s are grabbind say 20-45hz, then like four 10"s grabbing 45-90..... then (in a really crazy setup) a person might run eight 8"s grabbing from 90-250hz....then your mids, then your highs.... you could even run some super high frequency tweeters beyond that.
So basically, it's just like a common 3 way system, but taken a level or two beyond, to a 4 or 5 way system.
Pretty hard core x-over and sound proccessing to do it right, but sure, it can work very well actually.
Fish
PS, Where you would run into different sized subs sounding like garbage, would be if they were "trying" to play the same exact frequencies. A cancellation nightmare !
Thank you, seem's like you understood more of what I was getting at than some of the other people here.
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*I'm not sure I'm posting this in the right place. Please move the thread if it's not in the right place.*
I've always had thoughts about mixing two different subwoofers sizes into the same system. I have always wondered why nobody does that, would it sound bad; or not mix well? I've always wanted two level 5 15's and 2 DD 10s, mainly because I thought who doesn't love the body rumbling hit of a 15? But on the other hand I love the car rattling hit of the 10s. Why not combine the best of both worlds to make an even better experience. I've never heard a system like this in person, or sat in the car with it for that matter. So could you guys enlighten me as to why nobody i've seen has mixed sized woofers in there build?
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I'm gonna pass on those for now, but I'll definitely keep your offer in mind. The only reason I'm not going to purchase them now is because I'm kind of tight on money at the moment because I need to pay off my pops of the car. But if you still have them in 2-3 weeks and I've talked to my dad more about the payment of the blazer i'll definitely consider it.
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Wheels... just one of those words that make me laugh when people repeat it. Not trying to being an ass, just made me chuckle.
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I like them a lot, they're definitely a more classy type of rim. Something you'd see on a Chrysler 300. I'd rock em.
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I have some RE comps for sale if you want $75.00 new.
Hmmm, details? Which model are they? 6.5s? 2 way?
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Go for it. Should sound nice. Why not go for Rockford comps?
It's definitely a possibility depending on price, and what the reviews on them look like.
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Well I've got rockford fosgate 4x6s and 6x9s already, I may amp the 6x9s but probably not the 4x6s.
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Alpine Type R are good for the money. You can find the on the bay for cheap.
So, hypothetically speaking, if I were to get the 6.5 Alpines, would I just leave the 4x6s and 6x9s unamped?
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What's your budget?
Im looking to spend no more than 750's on the the components, and amps for them.
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Hello everybody. Today I went to take a look at the my new baby. I'm purchasing a 2000 2 door chevy blazer. I looked on Outfit my Car and it tells me that there are 4x6s in the dash, 6.5s in the doors and 6x9s in the rear panel. I've been looking forward to getting a new car because I wanted to do some crazy shit with the components. But now I realized that there are so many stock speakers in this boy that I don't even know where to start.
Initially i was planning on getting a 4 door vehicle in which i'd put a set of 3 way components in each door (Was looking at cadence comps). With so many speaker sizes in this blazer I'm not even sure what size components to get, let alone what type. Also, to add another complication, I don't know what type of amps to purchase.
In a while I'm planning on also getting some woofers in the back, hopefully two 15's (not sure which brand yet). One more thing I'm not quite sure about is how i'd run 2,3, or even 4 amps off of my batteries. Do I need some sort of splitter in which I will split one power wire into several different wires to each amp. Also do I need multiple remote wires for each amp, and how will they run each wire to the head unit.
I know I'm asking quite a bit from you guys, but I know some of you have the experience and knowledge to set me in the right path. So if you guys could at least get me started on some ideas of what may work best I'd really appreciate it. I'm open to all ideas!
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I have nothing to add to this other than what has already been said, I just wanted to say I have family from Toledo. I went out there years ago probably out 2000. I think I remember the "ghetto" part of the city being near the zoo, can you confirm this for the lulz? Also, my cousin was at the gym and Katie Holmes was on the treadmill next to him and farted. Cool Story Bro, I know.
Haha yeah, the south and east side of Toledo are what you'd consider the "Ghetto" of Toledo so yeah, you on the right track. Katie Holmes is actually from my hometown. I live right outside of Toledo actually, on the border of Michigan.
I'd like to thank everyone else for their input, this really helped me get an idea of what kind of labor I was looking at. I think I've made a decision, mainly based on my Dad being fed up with my and my shit ass car, we're just going to sell it for metal weight. I took out the battery so I can use it my next vehicle. I also may take out some more stuff to sell them seperately, mainly the wiring, possibly the radiator.
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Sell the most important things. Take all the wires like the main harness out and melt the insulation off for the copper. Take the Cats off because they are worth some. I think radiators are too? Anything thats like aluminum or copper take off yourself and sell seperatly.
Copper > Steel > Aluminium but they will be paying the same price for all of it? I think I understand what your getting at.
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parting it out will take a while but will def get u the most $$, reading that u dont have somewhere ideal to keep at i say just scrap it. take the more common parts off it first and sell those and scrap the car they usually go by weight so taking a few parts wont hurt u
GL
what are some of the parts you recommend taking? In that case maybe I should fill the gas tank with concrete
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Hey guys! Before I ask any questions I'm going to give you guys some background information about my car, and the recent events my car has been involved with. I own a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am, and being the irresponsible young adolescent that I am I neglected the importance of checking my oil on a regular basis. I was driving on the highway to class about a week ago when I started hearing a god awful noise coming from under the hood. After class, I drove to the nearest gas station to fill up on oil, coolant, and gas. By this time It was already too late; I had obtained a loud knock from burning up something (That I didn't care enough to check into) in the engine. Today I was driving to work when my engine ceased (I believe that's what happened), my car was towed to my house. After work I came home and started striping everything that may come in handy in the future, out of my car. Some of these things include my aftermarket door and rear deck speakers, subwoofers, amp, head unit, rear view mirror, and floor mats.
Now that you know a little about my recent experience I would like to ask some advice concerning the disposal of my POS car. I'm trying to make as much money as possible, while still executing a reasonably quick means of disposal. I have been told that I could either scrap the whole car for metal weight to a scrapyard, or part it out on craigslist. To be honest, I only have a rough idea of what the possible amount of money I could actually get for this. So finally, I'd like to ask you car junkies, what you think would be the most profitable means of disposing my Grand Am. Also if you could please put a rough estimate of time, and possible income I'd be looking at with you're suggested technique. Any input is welcome, Thank you for your time and advice.
P.S. I can't have my car sitting around too long, I live in a subdivision in which it is parked on the street. Therefore it'd be kind of a pain in the ass to have a bunch of random people coming to wrench on it for parts.
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Not to sound like a douche but I really don't feel comfortable buying electronics and such off eBay. I know it sounds paranoid, and my boss buys speakers and amps all the time through eBay, but I don't want to go through the hassle of getting my money back if I get bad stuff.
Look at the sellers feedback. If he's gots 100+ sales and his feedback is like 95+% possitive you should be fine. If you've got somebody with eighty percent or less feedback and like 10 sales... Don't go for it. Just make sure who you're buying from looks like a good person and you should be set.
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one of the only things a glassed panel allows you to do is move the speaker placement and direction its firing (or fit more speakers in a single door). having them enclosed could actually blow them out being that some if not most regular speakers are designed for infinite baffle.
personally, I have tried enclosing mids (memphis PR6.5s) and it did have a favorable result, (my mids became a little more punchier) but I also had a large amount of space behind them. I couldn't tell you if these speakers would be good for an enclosed application being that I have no experience with them and Im guessing SlaPP doesn't either. nothing says a fiberglass panel will yield you a "cleaner response".
Another double pot
Since I don't need a four channel amp (at least I don't believe I do) could I just run this two channel amp My link? It'd save me a bit of money but it looks like its got just about the same power output. It says 4 Gauge power and ground wire is recommended; That's quite a big difference than the previously recommended 12 gauge wire. I think I may be confused though, should I run 4 gauge from my battery to the amp but 12 to the crossover?
to clarify, your looking for 4 speakers (or components) correct? Id just run a 4 channel and be done with it. you'd run 1 channel to each crossover. then each crossover would have a mid and tweeter. you don't need to be running at 2 ohms. and yes your speaker wire will be a higher gauge (smaller) than your power wire.
Yes it'll be 4 speakers. Thanks man, that clears things up quite a bit.
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Dude there is a lot of work in fibreglassing doors aswell as the cost of glass and epoxy, also as the time it takes to sand down, use filler, them sand down again, paint or cover, your giving him advice on something you`ve never done before? Besides, if you cut a hole and make a little bracket for the speaker its still gonna have its own little pocket,
Anyway good luck to the OP
dont forget a build log if you plan anything big I suppose that does seem like quite a bit more than I'm trying to spend on my system as of now. I'm struggling to get the money just to afford system I'd like, and I'm quite inexperienced when it comes to fabrication. In your opinion would cutting holes in the current door panels be a good idea? How'd I get a mounting bracket for?
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Another double pot
Since I don't need a four channel amp (at least I don't believe I do) could I just run this two channel amp My link? It'd save me a bit of money but it looks like its got just about the same power output. It says 4 Gauge power and ground wire is recommended; That's quite a big difference than the previously recommended 12 gauge wire. I think I may be confused though, should I run 4 gauge from my battery to the amp but 12 to the crossover?
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I wasn't planning on fiberglassing the doors purely because I don't have any experience with fiberglass. Would fiberglassing the doorpanels make a significant difference? Just looked at the components specs and they are 4 ohms, I should probably read a little more before I start asking more stupid questions. Thanks for the help again Danny, I'll get back to you tomorrow about this I've got to go.
not a stupid question..fiber glassed door panels do make a difference it'll give you a cleaner response as that each speaker has its on little pocket
i have no experience with fiber glass but im doin mine this summer just gotta try it out you never know
Okay, I'm going to do a bit of research on fiberglassing the door then I'll probably give it a shot, most likely fail, but I guess its worth a shot. Also, I'm going to take a look at that rockfosgate amp
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I wasn't planning on fiberglassing the doors purely because I don't have any experience with fiberglass. Would fiberglassing the doorpanels make a significant difference? Just looked at the components specs and they are 4 ohms, I should probably read a little more before I start asking more stupid questions. Thanks for the help again Danny, I'll get back to you tomorrow about this I've got to go.
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Didn't catch that you wanted 2 sets of components. Why 2 sets though?
I was thinking about running one set per door. do you think that'd be overkill if I had some decent 12's or 15's? I'm not sure what brand yet I just know that my shitty Kenwood KFC-W3012 12"s aren't cutting it. One more question would these be 2 or 4 ohm?
dont forget a build log if you plan anything big 
running 14v daily in a 99 yukon denali?
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted
Sack up dude. You're bitching about his spelling yet you're capitalization is terrible. Stop being a bitch and be grateful that you have any of these gentlemen to help you out.