[How many bats?!]

i would probably do 16 batts and 4 quad alt kits with 400amp alts

wheere should i look to find these quad alt kits for my car? and what kinda bats. im in college so i need a cheap bat if im buying 16

[How many bats?!]

No. I wouldn't add more batteries until you... get a HO alt! All of these people saying do batts first are not really wrong, but that's not the way it should be done. An alternator is going to be cheaper than 5 batteries. Upgrading from a 105-130 alt to a 270 amp alt will eliminate the need for so many batteries so in the long run you will be SAVING MONEY. Also, cal's theory that adding more batts isn't going to help the 12.8v situation is wrong. It actually will, not for long.. but it will. The more batteries, the more available current. Which means voltage isn't going to get used up as fast. If you're just trying to "help it a little", and money is tight then go ahead and add a battery..

thanks for the explanation. that is all im really trying to do is help the situation. idk if im even gunna have this car for long. i just wanted to know if adding a kinetick HC1400 or XS D5100 will keep my voltage above/at 13 then id be happy

[2 SSA ZCON 18"s in a PT Cruiser. Epic flex and hairtrick.]

damnnn. im just straight up impressed by that video sounds like it smacks

[How many bats?!]

so overall would adding a kinetik HC1400 or a xs power D5100 be a good idea? would it be enough power?

[pricing help for a new system]

whatever you can get people to pay for them otherwise you just have a bunch of equipment that is worth whatever makes you feel good.

[Anyone have a box design for 3 12's ?]

yea you should be fine. personally id stick closer to 7 but not much less. 7 sounds good. it will be an efficinet box. just make sure oyu know your songs and possibly have subsonic on

[Anyone have a box design for 3 12's ?]

no. 7 - 7.5 cubes for all isnt bad. the manufacturer recommendation is just a starting point. i perosnally would agree and go 7- 7.5 cubes

[Headunit has power, but won't light up!]

i would say check connnections and use common sense. not all instructions are applied to every vechicle. you may have a unique case. or ffaulty H/U

[Orion Cobalt CO500 Cobalt Series 100-Watt 5.25-Inch Coaxial Speakers]

looks good to me. might have to pick up a pair

[Can an aq hdc3 take as much power as a fully loaded fi bl]

the HDC3 will take at least 2krms daily clean of course. not sure about clipped. havnt wanted to try to blow sub. personal experience

[How many bats?!]

thanks for all the input guys. i miss typed and am aware that current is amps. so overall would adding a kinetik HC1400 or a xs power D5100 be a good idea to add to possibly keep my voltage on bass notes higher. and i am aware that it is only a bandaid but im not going to shows and bumping all day. it is a daily driver. thus i bump anywhere from 10 minutes to maybe an hour sometimes. and for those longer runs o dont have bass constantly on. i listen to a wide variety of music. in addition, that max 230 A is a max rating and only 150 max is bass amperage. the rest is highs only. maybe you need to read up on how electronics work Mike. also all of my amps never get hot and can rest my face on all of them comfortably even after hour of play time

[Kinetik battery charger to run an amp?]

try this maybe? ive done it and it works perfectly fine for me. just try to know what your doing and it doesnt take that much power to be loud in a house

[JL audio iPhone app]

definetly not accurate. calculators are ok though

[How many bats?!]

good video. currently my amp does not even get hot and i have bumped for hours straight before? and my voltage does not drop below 13 maybe 12.8 on really low notes. can anyone explain that? is there any way to see if alternator is affected?

[How many bats?!]

Why .5 ohm? The amp does 1200w rms at 1 ohm on 12v and the subs are what 750w rms each why stress the amp out like that and sayhuh? is right if you plan on stressing it the least you could do is feed it right H/O alt and atleast 2 batts in the back I would go XS. You cut corners you're going to fry that equipment in a heartbeat.

you obviously don't know about DD? After box rise I should be way over 1 ohm. MY only question here is what kinda electrical do I need? can i get away with 1 or 2 extra good bats and big 3 or am i gunna have to shell out the cash for a H/O alt. I know what I'm doing as far as equipment goes and like most people I'm on a budget. I want to know the minimum I can do to get away with it. Also see the 1500 watts amp tests by Fecupe and youll see the DD M1b (I have current M1 series amp M1C) does 2200rms or at least its support that it can do that with subs wired at .5 ohms and about 1 ohm after box rise. so 1 or 2 batts (xs or kinetik) wont cover my electrical needs? i should go with the H/O instead?

[How many bats?!]

i have an excellent stock battery already and really dont need to replace that. yes it is not an after market bat but i believe it is still quality. and has proven thus far to provide my system power. would adding 1 xs power D5100 in back or kinetick Hc 1400 be enough? and i rechecked my alternator and believe it is 115 A actually

[How many bats?!]

anyone have an idea?

[something smelled funny]

maybe you had a surge of power or possible low voltage? check all fuses in fuse boxes. I believe there are 2 fuse boxes. one under hood and one near driver kick panel.

[something smelled funny]

the truck starts just fine?

[How many bats?!]

I am running a DD M1C and want to run at .5 ohm. I have big 3 done. stock 100 amp alt. 95 mercedes benz. see complete system in sig. voltage never currently drops below 12.8 on hard bass hit. How many batts should I add to supply amps with proper amperage and current? will i be able to do this w/o a H/O alt? in addition which is a good battery brand to look at or specific model even considering cost is an issue and what about if cost is not an issue. My max draw in amps from everything is around 230 amps ( DD M1C (150A) + DD c2c (40A) + JL 400/4 (40A)) + car draw. OR other general electrical upgrades I should do. I'd like to stay away from a H/O alt if possible. But if I have to let me know. ALso I'd like battery to be physically small if possible. less than 6 inches width other parameters can be whatever. I might be able to do 6.5 inch

[What electrical upgrades should I make?]

I need a new amp and another battery and a bigger box so that's about 400$.

oh i see. well its all what you want. if you want to hit the lows with the 1000 rms just get a 15 or an 18. Can you fit? if not go with the 10s. but try the 1 10 to see if its enough. And you could tune lower so you can play it louder at lower hz without bottoming out or breaking ur sub.

[Porting]

theres not even a pic of the box so idk what to tell you. most of the time you cant jsut port a prefab box. I would look into building a custom one

[What electrical upgrades should I make?]

yea i would definetly say so. 1 ten puts a smile on my face. when i put the 2nd in at .5 ohms instead of jsut 1 ohm i laughed. it was excellent. and Fi Bl 10 are only 274 base plus options and shipping? My 2nd DD 2510 hah is almost 400 supercharged and custom cap but i got a deal but it is definetly worht it

[spl coil's vs stock copper coils ?]

I agree^^ sounds like your bottoming out

[What electrical upgrades should I make?]

that depends on your definition of "feel". do you want just your head to shake, or do you want your whole body to shake in addition to the seat and the steering wheel your holding on to? it really comes down to cone area. youll feel the lows with that sub for sure (I used to have only 1 DD 2510) just when you add a second 10 its on a whole nother level. plus it has to do with your cabin size and a bunch of other variables. try the 10, if you want more get another one. or go 1 15!