Bump4life
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Posts posted by Bump4life
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love this build
glad you got to check it out steve, adam, wyatt and the utah crew are some cool dudes. looks brutal
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with that unit good luck getting a bracket to work with your car. You have a rear mount on your alternator. im sure you could get something to work but it would be difficult. Plus the one in link is a SMALL case, they arent as good as the large cases which are much more expensive. But it will be better than your stock if you can make it fit.
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I just sent an email to US Alternators, will keep posted. I'd never heard of them, I'm familiar with Iraggi, Mechman, DCPower, and Powerbastards, as well as a few others.
they are going to be on the level and expense of dc power but once again youll be getting the latest technology and hairpin alternators compared to a slot wound universal. only con to hairpin is the cost.
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The technology you are getting with the dc power is years ahead of what other companies are offering in the slot wound universal styles.
You wont be disappointed with the DC Power and I highly recommend US Alternators. I run one myself.
Did you call mechman and see what they can do?
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I've been looking everywhere for a high-output alternator for my 2004 Elantra, the only problem is that I'm unable to find anything really, and the ones I have found are either very low amperage compared to other alts available for other cars, or they're universal and I don't know if they'll fit. Anyone have experience with this car and upgrading the alt? I've been searching for years. Thanks ahead of time.
Here's one I've found, http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_410/Hyundai-Elantra.htm, just wanting to see if something around 220+ is possible.
And not the $750 one available through DC Power.
Your car stock case is small and is made by a manufacturer with limited parts to build from that "fit". You cant pack 100 pounds in a 5 pound bag. Both DC Power and US Alternators will make a custom billet case which is larger than your stock one which can house more power reliably. Thats the only way to get a bigger output.
You already found the solution but are unwilling to pay for the most important part of the electrical system that not only runs the stereo but also the car!
save your self the universal headache and just put up the money and buy a plug and play bolt on billet alternator from DC Power or US Alternators
Mechman from my experience doesnt do the elantra in a billet version. They do have billet alts but only for the more common applications.
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ctek 7002. that is all you need for those size batteries. although i am sure the xs power charger may be nice, ctek oems for many companies such as northstar, BMW, mercedes etc. Thier chargers (7002 and up) have a 7 step charging process including a reconditioning mode. it can be had for under 100 dollars. try that. it may be able to desulphate the plates enough for battery use. but letting batteries sit in a discharged state and abused is never a good thing.
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i pretty much want one at this point
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its just weed.. would be okay in Washington and Colorado
what happened wouldnt be ok anywhere. lol even in legal states.
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i found this if it helps anyone
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once free money becomes available (when is that right?) i really want to get one of these. im sure they sound great
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nice video steve! I'd like to add 2 bits of info to help educate people.
1. this only applies to amps with unregulated power supplies. higher end JL Audio or Arc audio amps, just to name a few have regulated power supplies in whihc input voltage has no effect on the output. I didnt have audio on so not sure if you mentioned that. but nice video.
2. I think its also important to point out to people who CAN'T HOLD that voltage that boosting their voltage to 15v instead of 14v only to drop to 12 volts since they are exceeding output of alternator does nothing for them. if you dont hold the voltage continously, it does nothing for you.
one more thing to one of the posters above @ daniel brill, 12v batteries can be safely charged over 15v depending on conditions, state of charge, and duration. there are many many variables when charging batteries. the xs power intellicharger or ctek smart chargers attempt to cover all the bases when charging a battery. a car alternator can only do so much and is not a proper way to fully charge a battery, even if you have a high output alt.
your son is very lucky to have that set up steve! tuned in for more! love the test vids
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any pictures of other end of harness? do you have 4 pin stock?
i could tell you more with more pictures of harness and regulator. from the looks of it, you got an after market regulator considering its 3 pin oval meaning sense is internal. pics with cover off would help identify the regulator.
but all the harness does is make your car work with this regulator.
hope it all works out. the elite alt is a nice hairpin unit.
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got it back ill take pix later. LONG day was a very quick turn around and im very thrilled. shipped it out and got it back in a week and a half.
question though. they gave me a quick harness with it that an extra wire coming off the yellow PIN marked B. Sorry to sound dumb but what is this used for?
and big thanks to Chris and Matt at mechman for such a quick turn around and quality service
pictures of said harness?
also pics of alt? with cover off?
im glad it was fast turn around. its a 5 minute job so id expect it back fast.
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Haha. one alternator company all up in another alternator companies business, should be fun
im just another consumer like any of you guys on this forum digging to the bottom of a story..
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i would love to see pics once you get it back
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After the entire trouble shoot, the problem was the worn out aluminum pulley. The grove on the pulley was getting thin. Even though the alternator come with a two-year warranty the pulley was in a ware and tears case. So thanks to Chris at Mechman Tec support, he only charges me ½ the price of a new aluminum pulley plus the shipping. Now I have installed my stock alternator with Mechman voltage adjustable adapter. I still can set the voltage output of the stock alternator to 15.5v cold and 14.4 when hot. All 3 batteries are still being charge. Now my stock alternator installed back into my 2011 Toyota sienna and it sound super quiet, it sounds like a new car. Before with the high out put alternator my car have a loud winding sound all the time. I will put the Mechman alternator on the side just for the look in my car garage.
lol
a worn out pulley? and it makes noise so you go back to stock to have a quiet oem sound?
seems like mechman is using real quality parts here.... even if 1 groove wore out on the pulley if you have a 6 groove belt that is more than enough for 200 amps still with 5 grooves. how does only one groove wear out? how does the pulley wear out? rubber vs metal. the metal should win. the belt wears not the pulley.
this reminds me of that time mechman was trying to get out of warranty because the customer put more than one run from the charging post and they said it can hurt the alternator. ya right guys.
and they charged you for a pulley that costs 10 dollars? so you payed 5 plus shipping? if you payed more thats pretty shitty especially if you are still under warranty period.
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if he is actually a taxi driver then idling for long periods with no airflow can build up the heat and cause failure in addition to the mileage!
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what voltage were you dropping to op? what did you run on it and how many batteries? 1 year and 7 months really isnt that good unless you were abusing it terribly.
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you know my thoughts. i believe you are already emailing me
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long story short, 400A HOT alternators are not possible in a standard casing. well they are possible but dont last. I have had one on the bench for 27 minutes before the rectifier got too hot and diodes started to pop. if you get a water cooled rectifier or maybe a copper rectifier with same design as the aluminium you might stand a chance. but then the regualtor is going to start to get hot. but at that point, why would you try it to have it fail at some point down the road. that amount of current is just too much for even the dr44 casing.
if you have a gm car or even a ford truck,m look into running a dual triple or quad alt setup. if you have another car, look into bracket options or removing ac.
a 370 is good for freeway cruising, but if you plan on playing at idle or even around the city go with a 250A HOT unit aka 270 cold which most reputable companies offer.
if you don't mind revving to 2k rpm + then a 370 will yield more power for you. but on hot days city driving red light to red light and such thier idle can be minimal to non existent. also if your car has a red line above 6k rpm and you actually drive it there, be careful becuase a lot fo these companies throw on super small pulleys to get them spinning faster. this also poses a problem because new smaller belts must be used, and if the belt wrap isnt good then you are prone to hearing belt squeel.
it sounds like you like the technical aspect so id look into multiple 370s or 270s depending on the points i mentioned earlier
werd...
there is pro's and con's of all. There is a reason Mike put 4 270's on Kevins quad set up. Derek had some 400 rated pigs, that didnt make it through the first show. He has went back to the 370. Im picking up what your putting down man
you have a pretty optimal setup with a 270 and 370. best of both worlds. got a great power curve going
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long story short, 400A HOT alternators are not possible in a standard casing. well they are possible but dont last. I have had one on the bench for 27 minutes before the rectifier got too hot and diodes started to pop. if you get a water cooled rectifier or maybe a copper rectifier with same design as the aluminium you might stand a chance. but then the regualtor is going to start to get hot. but at that point, why would you try it to have it fail at some point down the road. that amount of current is just too much for even the dr44 casing.
if you have a gm car or even a ford truck,m look into running a dual triple or quad alt setup. if you have another car, look into bracket options or removing ac.
a 370 is good for freeway cruising, but if you plan on playing at idle or even around the city go with a 250A HOT unit aka 270 cold which most reputable companies offer.
if you don't mind revving to 2k rpm + then a 370 will yield more power for you. but on hot days city driving red light to red light and such thier idle can be minimal to non existent. also if your car has a red line above 6k rpm and you actually drive it there, be careful becuase a lot fo these companies throw on super small pulleys to get them spinning faster. this also poses a problem because new smaller belts must be used, and if the belt wrap isnt good then you are prone to hearing belt squeel.
it sounds like you like the technical aspect so id look into multiple 370s or 270s depending on the points i mentioned earlier
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nice! i can snowboard and wakeboard but cant skateboard. this might be a good way to learn my balance for skateboarding while having some fun!
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my benz!
It would be awesome to try them out with my audison voce front stage
already have fully deadened doors with second skin pro. this would be a nice add on facebook and instagram liked!!
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glad you got to check it out steve, adam, wyatt and the utah crew are some cool dudes. 
Hey.... an OG peeps out there??? Sound off a bit...
in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
Posted
yooooooo. been a minute. this just brings back good memories. still alive, and now i choose the go fast life instead of the bass life. 2 kids and a wife since I last logged on.